Can this basket be saved?

I've read some posts about people filling down their worn clutch baskets.

Mine looks pretty bad to me, also the boss is worn (see pics).

Is it past saving? Anybody save one this far gone?

I was quoted 363 British pounds (by Fowlers) just for the basket, that's 580 dollars!


2011-11-09 15.59.36-zoom1.jpg

2011-11-09 15.59.36 -zoom2.jpg

2011-11-09 15.59.36_800x563.jpg

I have repaired worse than that. IMHO for that kind of money it is worth a try? the trick is going to be getting the inner hub teeth smooth enough to allow the plates to slide back and forth. I have used a thin knife sharpening stone to knock down the high spots on the inner hub it did not come out perfect but it did seem to work.

The basket is easy to file smooth but you must take great care to file the basket straight if you file at an angle and the plates contact on an edge and not a flat surface you be right back to deep grooves in a few rides.

If it doesn't work that you haven't lost any money other than a gasket and maybe some oil.

Good luck!

$580 wow......did you look on ebay?

Don't buy from the UK - we get ripped off here

Buy from the USA

$212 from for the basket, $57 for the inner boss

GCannon, thanks for advice! I got basket off this morning. Going to get a nice big flat file, should help keep it square.



Hi Hurricane, I did check Ebay, thanks for the advice. :busted:

- From what I could see there's not much OEM on ebay, certainly not much OEM in the UK on Ebay.

I'm guessing that the OEM's do their job well but select and target a particular Performance / features, Reliability and Price point. Some people are discerning enough to know that a particular aftermarket solution is targeting a slightly (or very!) different Performance / features, Reliability and Price that fit's them better. I'm not knowledgeable enough to be honest, about the products or what I need!, so I generally stick with vanilla OEM unless there's a good reason not to (like availability at a reasonable price).

- especially as the basket has been unchanged for a number of years across a number of models, OEM seems a safe bet.

What do people think about aftermarket baskets?

Al, Aftermarket basket are almost always at least as good, sometimes better than stock. If your hard on baskets, I'd be inclined to go with the Barnett model, as it has stainless steel sleeves on the tangs so they should never groove up. And if they did, there replaceable!!! Maniac

Al, Aftermarket basket are almost always at least as good, sometimes better than stock. If your hard on baskets, I'd be inclined to go with the Barnett model, as it has stainless steel sleeves on the tangs so they should never groove up. And if they did, there replaceable!!! Maniac

I agree typically when it comes to clutch baskets and components the companies like Barnett, Hinson, and Wiseco make some good units. Hinson are supposed to be the best from what I've heard but I have no experience with them. Hopefully you will be able to repair your OEM basket to get you by which will give you some more time to come across a good deal for the future.:busted:

Thanks for some really helpful replies. It's great to tap other's experience; it would take me years to have tried that many brands of clutch basket! Appreciated it.

I have hit a problem during reassembly, which isn't covered in the service manual. Anyone ever come across the below? :busted:

The manual says to torque the clutch boss nut to 75NM (54 ft lbs) and fold over the tabs on the lock washer to secure it. However at 75NM the flats on the nut do not align with the tabs on the washer.

If I decrease the torque wrench until it does align, it's only at 30NM! I haven't tried making it tighter to fit the other tab, but I'm guess it would be significantly over 75NM.

Does that mean my torque wrench must be out? Or is it more likely something's broken or installed wrong?

...Or do just take 75NM as a guide but principally make it fit the tab, seems a bad idea to me... Or just bend the tabs over and try to press them down onto the nut corners... seems like another bad idea, but happy to be told I'm wrong... :busted::confused:

Everything was well oiled. Torque wench isn't a great brand, but did come with calibration certificate. At 75NM its about 1/3 through the rotation required to align the 2nd tab on the lock washer, so it's basically nowhere close.

Thanks for any help.

- I'm off looking for someone to lend me a torque wrench! :bonk:


I believe you can just fold them over where ever they land on the nut, at least thats what I've always done. Then again I've never used a torque wrench, I always zip it on with an air gun since I didn't have a clutch basket holder.

Interesting. The two I've seen, one on the WR and one on the YZ, were both perfectly aligned to the tab when I took them off. Additionally all the diagrams in the service manual all show a perfectly aligned tab. I assumed it was just designed to that accuracy.

Does your air gun have any kind of calibrated torque setting? - If not, given you don't torque it to spec, can I read into that, that it's not too sensitive? I.e. I can probably over tighten till I get close to the next tab without too much risk of breaking anything?



I don't feel comfortable telling you to over torque anything, that's on you. I'm just saying by my experience we just use an air gun to remove and install the big nut, I've done it on numorous bikes (yz, cr, kx, ktm) and never had any issues but I'm sure a mechanic wouldn't approve. As for the torque setting I have no idea what is was set on. I think we just tried to align as close as possible but it has been a couple years since I've messed with one so I don't remember all the details.

hay, if it works, it works...... and if you've done a lot of them that has to say something...

What I've done, which seems to have worked is as follows:

- Checked the torque wrench by putting a 1/2 inch socket on it and putting two of them back to back. Set to the same setting, mine was always first to click, so I suspect it's over rather than under reading, however not by very much.

- Got a new washer (I was hoping reusing the old one was the cause, with it already being compressed and offering up less resistance, but didn't seem to make any difference!)

- over torqued it in 10lb ft steps up to 80 lb ft to get it closer, and then folded over the tab best I could.

- put it all back together, and apart from a bit of dragging when cold, not problems yet.

So thanks for all the very helpful replies. I will be sure to post back if there's any issues in future, especially if they could be down to that over tightening! I'd also be very interested to hear any opinions on it, as I'm still not clear how unwise it was, even if I seem to have got away with it so far.



If you had rotated the clutch hub 1 or 2 teeth backwards on the shaft, I bet it would have lined up....

:busted: Doh...Thanks for the embarrassingly obviously correct suggestion . I'll know for next time...

I have noticed the clutch baskets from the quiet sells for much less on ebay then a bike basket.

They Interchange the difference between the 2 is the quad basket has damper springs in the rear

I am installing one on my WR because I ride it on the road. The person who has informed me of this Had told me I needed to change the primary gear also but I think he had a aluminum frame bike, where ash 2004 steel frame I believe will just interchange.

I have the quad clutch ready to put in. I will count the keys on the big gear f you like if you plan on using this.

The pressure plate will interchange also. if you compare the 2 you can see the plate from quad is much more heavy duty.

Those stupid quads really abuse the 450I motor apparently

I sell parts on a very popular auction website.Some parts must cost alot in the UK as 35-40I of my sales are shipped there.Maybe its because hey got a new princess Kate, but every single person I've dealt with there has been overly polite


Thanks MaxPower!

Quads are much more popular out here, so it is normally much easier to get Quad parts.

I would consider putting a heaver flywheel in the YZ anyway, so it would be fabulous to know if the Quad clutch can be made compatible. I have a 2009 YZ, so if you can count the gears and maybe post some pictures, that would be smashing.

Toodle Pip


You can also put your bike in gear and hold the rear brake to torque the nut down. Helps if someone is assisting you. Also as someone above posted, get a new washer. I reused mine once when I installed a rekluse, then reused again when I put the stock clutch back in. It had gotten brittle from multiple bendings and I had to get creative with it. JLow.

Thanks jlow!

What I have not, up until this point, admitted to is that I actually broke a center hub boss by trying to tighten it without the right clutch locking tool... If I lock it by holding the break on, do you reckon I am at any risk of breaking anything deeper into the engine?


I will say no, I've done mine 3 times so far on my 450 and can't count how many times on other bikes. You are really just applying force in the same direction that the motor does and using the brake to hold it back. Others may chime in on this and may have a different opinion. JLow

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now