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Cleaning Ti Valves?

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I have my valves removed on my 2011 KX250F. They have a little over 30 hours on them, and while grinding my head to clear stage 2 hot cams exhaust cam I got a little bit of aluminum filings in the tappet bore and spring area. So I removed the valves and springs, and I am going to put in new exhaust springs and do the valve oil seals at this time. The valves are looking pretty good at the seat sealing surface and the stem, but where they don't contact the guide or seat, they are carbon fouled fairly thick. I mean maybe as much as 0.5 mm or so of carbon baked on. Can I use oven cleaner (non-chlorinated)? I have done that on my 2-stroke power valves with good results, but it does have to be washed away pretty quickly or it will oxidize aluminum parts and make them look hazy and white. I do not know if oxide coated Ti would be worse or better in response to oven cleaner. These are stock valves. I have adjusted the clearance with one step up (thicker) shims once for 3 of the 4 valves, 10 or so hours ago. I am installing stage 2 hot cams and while things are apart I am trying to clean things up as best I can.

Any info or experience cleaning your ti valves would be great...

Also, how are you all removing and installing oil seals for your valves? I figure a socket that does not interfere with the seal but just touches the steel part of the seal will work to tap them in place. For removal, I was thinking pliers on the steel part. Any thoughts? My service manual only says to remove and replace them, but does not mention any tools or techniques for them.

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stock valves at 30 hours. Maybe get another set if you are going to stick with stock I babied mine like they were premies and manage to get 67 hours before a sudden Zero. Maybe upgrade now - to new stock or a better valve - while you have it apart?

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thanks for the video that was cool. I actually did it that way a few days ago after reading on a car website about cleaning ti valves. I have a drill press, so I used some masking tape to keep from having to grab the valve directly with the jaws, then I went with a green scotch brite and some sea foam engine cleaner. I tried a softer scotch brite pad, something made for the kitchen, but it was not removing much. I think I will try to find some of that red pad. It seems to work really well, and some MPPL from maxima. My exhaust valves have quite a ridge just above the sealing surface, which is fairly clean, but it does have a few minor pits. I did order some del west exh valves but I will be cleaning the intakes and practicing my technique on the exhausts. My primary concern is to avoid removing the coating on the valves. Also, I need to clean the valve seats somehow, because they have a similar carbon ridge built up like the valves. I eventually want to get copper/nickel alloy seats and guides installed from pro1racingheads, but that will have to wait another 20 hrs or so I am thinking. They have the best price for that service I have ever seen...$395 for seats and guides installed pus soda blast cleaning of the head. $200 more for cylinder head porting. Maybe I should just do that now since I am down waiting on suspension from pro circuit and old man winter.

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