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Rear hub bearing issues DRZ S

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Looking for some tips about my rear hub bearings, here's the situation..

Bought the bike 2 months (2000 s model). Soon after, the rear hub bearings got loose. The old bearings seem to have failed from contamination/age. they were extremely rusty. I replaced them with a set of "all balls" bearings from a local shop. The old bearings were in there good and tight, new ones pressed in with what seemed to be the correct amount of force. I made sure to put them in as straight as possible and seat them all the way.

These bearings only lasted about a month. I did a once over before i went to ride today and found the disc side of the hub to have some play. Now, the bike unfortunately sees a "fair" bit of water. lately this time of year everything is just soaked in the northeast what with all the rain we've had. I can't really help but to have to get her wet. I feel these bearings should have obviously lasted way longer however.

Is that brand of bearings low quality? If so what should I buy?

Any tips with removing/installing the next set? I'm very mechanically inclined however I don't have a ton of experience with bikes I've only owned 1 before this for a short time.

What can i watch out for? I don't want to ruin this hub I know the bearings still fit nice and tight so I would imagine its got plenty of life left. I don't want the next set to get beat in a month either. Thanks guys

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I assume you replaced the seals, but another thing you need to look at is the axle spacers. Betcha they are grooved where the seal rides if so this will waste the new seals in nothing flat. There are spacers which are stainless steel or have metal sleeves get either of these and not the factory waste away aluminum ones.

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In wet climes.. I like the OEM bearings, or a better sourced brand from a bearing supply place.. What comes in the kits seems to vary with seal quality. /... When I rode in the pacific north west (North WET) OEM quality wheel bearings lasted years of use. ,, Aftermarket kit bearings did not.

Not scientific, just my experience.

Here in Texas, it does not seem to matter.

Of course you have to have good dust seals and non worn spacers as well.

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Thanks I'll check out those seals a little closer when i take it apart tomorrow. I remember just cleaning them up and re-installing. All i replaced was the bearings. I can't seem to locate any oem stuff locally, what is a good retailer on the internet the spacers/bearings?

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2000 model. No question you need seals and seal collars. However, less than a month of service is short life even for cheapo bearings and bad seals. Do make sure the spacer between the bearings was reinstalled.

Suzuki recommends the right side bearing be installed first and seated in its bore. Then the internal spacer, then the inner left bearing seats against the spacer, then the outer left bearing seats against the inner bearing. This assures none of the bearings are "pinched" when the axle is tightened. New seals and new seal collars and you are good to go.

I buy my bearings from the local bearing supply store and their standard line is made in China. They seem to be as good as any. I don't know anything about All Balls bearing source or quality grade.

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Bearings DRZ

Front wheel 2 x 6904 2RS

Rear wheel 2 x 6004 2RS 1 x 6204 2RS

Seals

Front 20x37x9mm (2x)

Rear 20x42x12mm (1x) 20x47x14mm (1x)

I buy most of my bearings on line at VBX

http://www.vxb.com

Motorcycle, car, truck, Machine tools, roller, ball, ceramic types.. GREAT service, fast shiping great product.. Rod ends as well from VBX.. I dont have an account there, but I should :busted:

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hey thanks for the bearing source. So I pulled it apart today and the bearings were still tight. It seems that the axle has a little bit of play inside the bearing races. I'm guessing that is where the movement is coming from. However, I remember the rear hub being perfectly tight when i put it back together and I check it often. I'm not sure how that would suddenly start happening. I rode about 50 miles today mostly on the street and about a half hour on the trail and it didn't seem to get any worse.

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squints- I suggest you check further. Assuming the axle nut is tight there will be no play between the axle and the bearing ID inner race. So, is the nut tight? When tight, does it clamp the wheel? (a washer with too small an ID between the nut and adjuster cam can stop the clamping action of the nut). Bearings can feel different when camped vs un-clamped due to change in preload. Just how much "play" is there? Is it play and smooth or play and rough?

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yes the nut is tight, everything assembled correctly. The washer is on the outside of the cam assembly. With the wheel removed, i put the axle through the hub and felt a clear amount of play. I think i will order some higher quality bearings, maybe these ones have a slightly larger ID due to looser tolerances? The axle itself (obviously) shows no signs of wear. I will order a new set tomorrow and find out! along with a battery:banghead:

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When I install new bearings I always use a small pick and pull the rubber seal off and pack the bearing full with water proof grease. The factory puts very little of what, to me, amounts to vasoline. After packing just reinstall bearing seal. You might give this a try to see if you can extended the service life of the bearings.

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When checking everything over i did pull the seal on the bearings even though they were tight and the grease had already dried up. i repacked but i imagine these won't last too long anyway

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