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Valve Maintenance HELP Needed!

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Attempting to do my valves on my 2007 crf 230f,first time doing it i have "T" mark and everything lined up the valve maintenance caps off,i cant seem to fine were exactly to put the feeler gauge?Right below the adjusting nut seems like the only place?Anything past that their is just a huge gap which goes down to,what looks like a big fat washer?Any help would be appreciated am lost.

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You put the feeler gauge between the tappet and the top of the valve. I haven't done mine yet, but that's the way I've done every other bike I've owned, including an XR200, XR250, XR400, XT250, XL250, YZ250F, WR250F. On the YZ and WR the adjustment is with a shim, but its the same idea, adjusting a gap.

The tappet has a nut on the top to adjust the gap, and there is a special tool made to tighten the nut and hold the bolt in place. But you don't really need it to do the adjustment. Just recheck after adjustment, and then change as necessary. Good luck with it.

go to about 4:20 or so.

Edited by ronbuell

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Check out this link for step by step valve clearance check and adjustment with pics:

http://codewins.com/motorcycles/crf230valveclearance/

It addresses your question with this:

"Starting with either valve, insert a 0.002" feeler gauge between the bottom of the adjusting screw and the valve stem. The easiest way to do this is to "walk" the feeler down the adjusting screw until you feel the gap, then insert the feeler. Starting with a thin feeler will help you get the hang of this."

Make sure you're at TDC on the compression stroke too.

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Thanks for the link,i understand all the steps,the only thing am not sure on is if am sticking the feeler gauge in the right spot,i insert it right below the adjustment screw their,and their is a tiny little gap,their is no other place to put it from the looks of it,but the feeler gauge that is suppose to fit, its not even close,guess that means their out the valves?

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Thanks for the link,i understand all the steps,the only thing am not sure on is if am sticking the feeler gauge in the right spot,i insert it right below the adjustment screw their,and their is a tiny little gap,their is no other place to put it from the looks of it,but the feeler gauge that is suppose to fit, its not even close,guess that means their out the valves?

Both the 0.002" and 0.003" feeler guage should slip into the gap very easily. If they don't, the valves are too tight and need adjusted.

Its important to make sure that the "T" you are seeing in the sight glass is for TDC on the compression stroke and not TDC on the exhaust stroke. It can make a difference in the gap. I always watch the intake valve open and close to know for sure that the next "T" in the sight glass is on the compression stroke.

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Yes, test is between the bottom of the tappet screw and the top of the valve stem. As stated above so precisely, you must make sure that you are in the proper position with the cam in relation to the piston. The cam spins at 1/2 the speed of the crank, so theoretically you can be 180 degrees out. The fix is to spin the crank around again until the T comes back into view. If you have both tappet covers off, and one of them is pressed down while the other is up, then you are out of phase. If they are both up, then you are fine, measure away.

Also, just as a test, I always put my finger on the tappet and move it up and down. If I feel movement, then I know its not totally closed up. When in spec, you should feel a slight movement and maybe even here a click, but if it clicks too much, it can be too wide and will be noisy if run. Good luck, you're on the way!

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Is there an alternative to the "Honda valve adjusting tool" that sells for $45. I like having the right tools, but is it possile to use a couple of ignition wrenches to turn the adjuster screw and lock nut??

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Absolutely! I've never had that tool. The tool makes it much easier to hold the adjustment while tightening the nut, but it can be done without it. You might have to loosen it and re-do it. But that's OK. Take your time, set it, tighten it, check it. If the nut turns slightly, then open the gap a little so that when it does turn, it will tighten to the spec you need it. It's not rocket science, and you can do it. Good luck!

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Is there an alternative to the "Honda valve adjusting tool" that sells for $45. I like having the right tools, but is it possile to use a couple of ignition wrenches to turn the adjuster screw and lock nut??

Yep, like ron said you can absolutely do it without the tool. The tool just makes it easier. I've done it both ways and much prefer using the tool.

Search "Motion Pro Tappet Adjustment Wrench Set 08-0073" on Amazon.com.

They currently have 16 "new" listings for this priced from $27.91 and up.

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Is there an alternative to the "Honda valve adjusting tool" that sells for $45. I like having the right tools, but is it possile to use a couple of ignition wrenches to turn the adjuster screw and lock nut??

I made my own tool back in the 80s when I was racing 200s.

I just took a small piece of steel (perhaps 16 awg x 0.250 x 1.5") and used a hack saw and die file to make a very tiny open end wrench to hold the adjuster while I tighten the nut with 10 mm box end wrench.

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ok so as it is right now the feeler gauge wont fight,i don't know if 0.1mm is the same as the size their talking about on the link,but am only follow my shop manual.So i guess i have to loosen the nut until the feeler gauge can fit then hold the adjuster with something and tighten the nut until i can feel it a tiny fit on the feeler gauge?

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ok so as it is right now the feeler gauge wont fight,i don't know if 0.1mm is the same as the size their talking about on the link,but am only follow my shop manual.So i guess i have to loosen the nut until the feeler gauge can fit then hold the adjuster with something and tighten the nut until i can feel it a tiny fit on the feeler gauge?

Yes, .10mm is the correct metric clearance. Here's the metric conversion for the other guages mentioned in the link.

.002" = .05mm

.003" = .075mm

.004" = .10mm

.005" = .125mm

Have you tried a .05mm in the gaps just to see if it will fit? If my valves are off, I am alway interested in how tight or loose they are. When I checked my current '04 right after I got it, the .002" wouldn't fit on the intake side and there was no resistance with the .005" on the exhaust side. The bike was easy to start and ran like a top too.

Yes, loosen the nut and turn the adjusting screw counter-clockwise to increase the gap. The adjustment is very "delicate". 1/8th of a turn will make a big difference in the guaged gap so make the adjustments in very small increments. When you're done the .10mm guage should fit snuggly into the gap and a .12mm should not fit at all.

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Yes, loosen the nut and turn the adjusting screw counter-clockwise to increase the gap. The adjustment is very "delicate". 1/8th of a turn will make a big difference in the guaged gap so make the adjustments in very small increments.

Very true which is why you need a little tool to hold the adjuster while you tighten the nut.

You never want valves too close expecially with such a small gap but an extra .001-.002 doesn't hurt a thing. Beyond that it is a little hard on parts as there is usually a little ramp to take up clearance easy before the steep part starts and you would eliminate that.

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Sookerider, I know you haven't done this before. Just jump in there and you will see what we're talking about. Any wrench that fits the nut will loosen and tighten it. I like a socket, but that's me. A feeler gauge is just that, the adjustment is made by feel. It should be snug, but not so tight as to force the valve down. There should be a slight snuggness or drag to the feeler as you slide it thru the gap... hence the term "feeler" gauge. Its a judgement call on your part as to the feel of the tool. Once you've done it a few times, you can get it.

Try this as a learning exercise. Take an old sparkplug and close the gap down to what looks like the .004" gap you need. Then run the feeler thru it. You have it right when the gauge has a slight drag, but you can still insert it between the center electrode and the ground tang. Try it, it works. Good luck.

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okay thanks ronbuell,i managed to turn it with a wrench,so i loosened the lock nut slid the feeler gauge in their then held it in their along with a wrench on the lock nut and lock the adjuster but it seems to just turn deeper into the engine,like would'nt the locknut eventually get turned off if your holding it and turning the adjuster?My shop book just says turn it until you feel it on the feeler gauge,then hold the adjuster and turn the lock nut until it tight.But i've yet to find that.

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Read my previous posts. That's exactly what it will do, and that's why someone developed the tool to hold the stud while you tighten the nut. It's frustrating for people with ADHD to do it. I'm patient, and don't mind calculating in my mind how much to back off so that when I tighten the nut, and the stud closes up the gap, it will come out right, or very close to it. It's a guessing game without the tool to help, but you can develop a feel for it. I've done XR250s, XR400s, XL250s, XL350s, and they are all the same. You tighten it down, feel it, it's too close, so you redo it. Its too wide, you redo it and get it closer. Each time you learn to close in on the gap you need. Its called "developing a feel for it". It's part of mechanic-ing, working on the bike. Don't get frustrated, just count it as learning experience. Give yourself plenty of time, Saturday afternoon, no pressure, ask a friend who's done it to come over. There's plenty of guys who've done it. I'm bowing out. Good luck.

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Keep in mind ron buell im only a 17 year old attempting this,im not a expect like some other people here.

I think i know were i went wrong tho, im tighting it clockwise trying to increase the gap when i should be tighting it counter-clockwise to increase.

Edited by Sookerider

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