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Calling all HID/Electrical gurus

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I will also post this in the WR specific section but I figured I'd start here since it's a little more general. I drive a 2005 WR450F and for those not familiar with the Yammies, the stator is wound to output 75 Watts AC for lighting and 25 watts DC for the CDI and charging. I have a HID kit installed directly to the battery but I'm in the midst of moving so cash is too tight for the trail tech 100w DC stator kit so as a result I'm using the 25watt circut that powers the CDI and charging circut for the lights. My battery is new but doesn't last long since the light pulls more power then the stator puts out DC all together so there isn't any juice left to charge the battery and once it dies the lights freak out and I'm sure won't be long for this world if I keep them this way. I'm considering building a bridge circut using 4 6amp Diodes to convert the AC lines to DC and run the HID off of the current headlight circuit. This would allow more power for the HID and would eliminate the possibility of a no-start scenario should the battery flatline completly. I would also probably add a switch to allow me to turn the light off if need be. Can anyone verify whether this will work? The current fusing to the HID is 10amps so the diodes would be big enough, plus they're free :busted:

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Do you plan for the battery to act as the voltage regulator? It's still not going to last long it will likely get cooked and your voltage will vary considerably, not sure if that is ok for HID? A better idea would be to use a proper regulator/rectifier (probably full-wave but you need to see a stator diagram to determine) and a capacitor. Your permanent-magnet stator/rotor is only capable of producing AC voltage so you already have some sort of reg/rec to get your DC leg. I would also expect you CDI to be an AC cdi though I've never worked with those. Best be sure before proceeding.

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If I am understanding your plan you are intending to isolate the HID from the battery? I have tried to run HID on diode rectified circuits without a battery it did not work. I did not need the battery for starting so I didn't want the weight. I think the pulsing DC didn't go over well with the light and it would continuously retry to start the light - I suspect the same is happening when your battery discharges. Oh - adding a capacitor did not help me either. Good luck

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All of the above is doable, TrailTech has the parts and technical assistance.

I converted an AC lighting circuit on a XR to DC using a rectifier/regulator and a capacitor as a battery substitute (it provides filter function of a battery so the regulator works properly).

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I have no intention of removing the battery, I simply need more wattage to be able to power the light as well as charge the battery. I'm hoping that the current AC side could be used for it. Anyone know if the stock regulator/rectifier would handle the additional wattage? If so I'll just double the AC side into it with the bridge and use that instead.

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I would guess with your 75w ac system you could wire in a regulator rectifier and get around 50-65w dc current assuming all your connections are good, As a HID depending on the draw of your current system i would guys that's more than enough.

I ran a 35w 8" hid off of a 55w stator no problem.

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my ktm has the same setup, I used radio shack parts, cost me a couple bucks

I used..

radio shack 4700uf capacitor across high beam hot to ground, this stabilizes voltage to the relay that moves the magnet

radio shack 50v 25amp bridge rectifier, this converts the single yellow/red wire from AC to DC

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my ktm has the same setup, I used radio shack parts, cost me a couple bucks

I used..

radio shack 4700uf capacitor across high beam hot to ground, this stabilizes voltage to the relay that moves the magnet

radio shack 50v 25amp bridge rectifier, this converts the single yellow/red wire from AC to DC

I would try this and if it fails, just connect the ac to battery throught the rectifier, that should work too. Best option of course is to modify the stator and use different "sled-type" regulator/rectifier with two yellow wires like rickystator posted. I don't know how easy or possible it is to modify a wr stator though.

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