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Fork Set Up Question for us "Husky" Riders

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I have an 08 KX450F, and I have had this bike for a little over a year now and I have put fork seals in it 3 times and they are leaking again. And even after I put new seals in it the front forks are pretty easy for me to bottom out, my question is this. I am a 230lb guy, the guy I bought it from was about 150, and that's probably generous, if he put a looser spring in it, will that make it easier for my big ass to blow seals all the time? And, if I put a stiffer spring (RaceTech says 50-52kg), will it take some pressure off of the seals? Also, should I stay with the stock valving? Any input would be greatly appreciated. I know that there are some guys my size out there that know about setting a bike up. I don't do the track scene much anymore, but I do ride fairly agressive in the trails and I do enjoy the big natural jumps, but the forks bottoming out all the time is hard on my old wrists and ankles!!!

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I have an 08 KX450F, and I have had this bike for a little over a year now and I have put fork seals in it 3 times and they are leaking again. And even after I put new seals in it the front forks are pretty easy for me to bottom out, my question is this. I am a 230lb guy, the guy I bought it from was about 150, and that's probably generous, if he put a looser spring in it, will that make it easier for my big ass to blow seals all the time? And, if I put a stiffer spring (RaceTech says 50-52kg), will it take some pressure off of the seals? Also, should I stay with the stock valving? Any input would be greatly appreciated. I know that there are some guys my size out there that know about setting a bike up. I don't do the track scene much anymore, but I do ride fairly agressive in the trails and I do enjoy the big natural jumps, but the forks bottoming out all the time is hard on my old wrists and ankles!!!

You don't blow seals from bottoming forks. You blow seals from dirty wipers, a misaligned right fork leg, or nicks in the fork tube.

Align your forks, check your wipers for rocks, and go over your tubes with a razor blade and feel for nicks. If they are small enough, you can sand them out. Otherwise, you need it professionally done.

You need to change front and rear springs at the same time. 5.7/ .50 would be good for 230-245.

You will have less rebound after increasing the spring rate, and may have to have its shim stack changed, but probably not. You can adjust the clickers to compensate.

The Stock forks have some serious mid-stroke harshness, that can only be relieved with a shim stack change. Tons of companies across the country that can help you out with this. Do a search for one near your town.

I put 6.3/.52 with a Re-shim front and rear, and now the bike is plush as hell, stays high in the stroke, and sticks to the ground.

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if you are 230 before gear then you def should re-spring. I doubt you can get the sag right with the stock spring on the back, or more-so if its spring for a 150 lb dude.

Send the forks out the get inspected, resprung, and rebuilt. I had mine inspected, revbuilt, (leaky seals) and revalved for off-road and it cost me about $350. I didnt need springs though.

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