Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

'91 stator output on XR6 ??

Recommended Posts

I have a '91 XR 600R. I just picked up a "Tusk" universal lighting kit for it for mere pennies. It is used but still in very good cond.

My question is.... Can I connect this to my Factory stator wiring, or will I need to upgrade the stator?... This brings about the next question, What is the wattage output of the stock stator on a '91 XR6? This is an answer I can't seem to find. Been searching for a couple days now.

This kit has.... a 3 watt bulb in headlight housing that is always on as a running light when power pack is connected & turned on.

A 35/35 watt, larger hi/lo beam lightbulb with a hi/lo/off selection on the handlebar switch.

LED tail/stop light & LED flush mount blinkers.

Horn & fold down mirror

Comes with the brake light switch wire that has the banjo bolt with a pressure sensor in the head of the bolt. U just replace the stock banjo bolt with this one & u have brake light from foot lever only. (but that is enough)

So the question is .... Does anyone know how many watts the stock stator puts out on a 1991 XR 600R ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok. Well that should be plenty of power to run an LED light kit without any issues, right?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Right you are! I'll set it all up & if there's any break down issues in the RPM's, it'll get a new ricky stator & a couple of bad ass baha lights.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well my ricky is holding up great...and you have options on dualsporting and wiring,

Right now I have 90 watts going to the headlight on a modified glass housing and the other leg I want to hook up a big ass horn...dont need blinkers and all that.

Just need to find a suitable rectifier for the horn...

oh one kick starts too...but thats mostly due to fixed jetting.

cheers!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
well my ricky is holding up great...and you have options on dualsporting and wiring,

Right now I have 90 watts going to the headlight on a modified glass housing and the other leg I want to hook up a big ass horn...dont need blinkers and all that.

Just need to find a suitable rectifier for the horn...

oh one kick starts too...but thats mostly due to fixed jetting.

cheers!

I am looking to upgrade the headlight using the additional Ricky stator capacity. How did you modify the glass and what bulb did you use?

As for jaysons question, My 1990 worked OK with a similar setup except at idle the headlight would dim with the blinkers in use. It had standard incandescent bulbs though and no battery.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hey its nothing too impressive...

Ill look for a pic somewhere...It is a bunch of light but the pattern is a bit rectangular and shallow, but its awesome compared o stock. jajaja

Its pretty much like the glass housing upgrade for the xrr's, its about 30%larger and its from a honda xl250 industrial bike that they sell down here.

I have a heavy duty H4 shroud and plug and wiring from a car and stuck a nice 90/100watter in there.Sylvania I beleive, halogen.

One leg of the ricky is hooked up directly to that via the stock rectifier which can handle it no prob.

If I ever decide to add more lights I would have to upgrade to a different regulator/rec thingie.

good luck!

pic: Its says xanadu on it. thats all I know...

xr600071.jpg

xr600095.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok. so I'm about to try to hook this up by myself. The Battery pack it comes with, I am hoping can be eliminated. It is just there due to the fact that this was originally a universal kit designed to fit & function the basic lighting needs on any motorcycle.

So I'm thinking that I just cut the plug off the 2 wires going to the battery pack. Then connect these 2 wires, (from the light kit), to the proper wires coming from the stator, right?

I do believe the 2 wires on the light kit are positive & negative. That sound right? (makes sense to me).

So what I don't know is ...Which wires from the stator do I connect these pos. & neg. wires to?

Edit : I'd like to add that my bike already has an engine kill switch from the factory. The engine kill switch that is included with the light kit, has already been connected/wired, into the light kit as an on/off switch for all the lights. So all that is needed to work the kit, is power. When the switch is off, absolutely none of the lights work in any way.

Edited by jaysons
additional info

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you eliminating the battery from the kit? If so you may have AC coming from the stator and a DC lighting kit. Is there a rectifier somewhere? I wouldn't cut anything till someone with more knowledge on electrical chimes in.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Nice looking lighting there Christian. Looks like I'll need to find a glass lens from the junkyard or something to add a higher wattage bulb on mine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Im pretty sure your going to need a ac regulator/rectifier in between your stator and the headlight. Ricky stator sells them pretty cheap. In fact you can call Ricky and Mike will probably be able to tell you exactly what you need. Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

[quote name=

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Nice looking lighting there Christian. Looks like I'll need to find a glass lens from the junkyard or something to add a higher wattage bulb on mine.[/quote]

Thanks Bud!

It works for now till I save up for a baja light or something...plenty of light and cost about $25 all in.

The lens is great and it looks stock thats part of the reason I did it this way...nothing different except for enlarging the number plate hole and upgarding to an h4 unit and hd wiring.

Plus I didnt spend any money on upgrading the rectifier as the stock one handles it fine...so for peeps on a budget you know this works now.

cheers!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Get some maufacturer's directions for the dual sport kit.

Most kits are parallel systems, meaning your stator powers your headlight, and the battery (as a total loss system which has to be manually recharged occasionally) powers everything else. The two circuits don't interact.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, so I hooked up the headlight and tail/brake light. Come to find out, the wiring harness for the TUSK lighting kit had been hacked up more than a little bit. Things cut, spliced and wires added here and there.

So what I did was soldered 1 wire to one of the elements on the headlight bulb and 1 wire to the ground prong on the headlight bulb. Then just plugged those 2 wires into the same wires that the stock headlight plugged into.

Did the same with the tail/brake light. Then replaced the banjo bolt for the rear brake with the one supplied in the kit. connected 1 wire from the banjo bolt switch to ground, and the other to the 3rd wire coming from the LED tail/brake light.

So the tail and brake light work fine. The headlight works, but does not seem to be any brighter that the stock light. Altho it does shine alot further than the stock.

So I went and soldered the other element in the headlight to the 1st one I connected so that both beams would be on at the same time.

Note : There is still no battery, so all lighting only works when engine is running. Also, Blinkers are NOT hooked up at this time.

So now all the lights flicker, dim to bright constantly, when idling. But as soon as the RPM's are raised even the slightest, everything is very bright and seems to work perfect.

My question is.... will this burn out my stator? Keep in mind there are no blinkers connected and the tail/brake light is LED.

Head light is 2 elements of 35 watts each.Not LED. (stock was 1 element at 35 watts) And a tail light only at 4 watts.

So the only additional real power draw is the 2 elements equalling 70 watts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dual element headlight bulbs are intended to have only one element at a time illuminated. The high/low is from the focusing of the light, not an increase in power. When the switch is on low, the power goes to one element; when the switch is on high, the power goes to the other. The bulb will probably overheat and fail if you run power to both simultaneously for very long.

Bike stators aren't like car stators. They produce a given amount of power at a given RPM, regardless of load, and the stator's output is the limiting factor in how many lights/accessories you can use. Because your factory stator has such limited output, it can't power both filaments of your headlight simultaneously at low RPMs. You will not hurt the stator; it produces the same power regardless of load.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dual element headlight bulbs are intended to have only one element at a time illuminated. The high/low is from the focusing of the light, not an increase in power. When the switch is on low, the power goes to one element; when the switch is on high, the power goes to the other. The bulb will probably overheat and fail if you run power to both simultaneously for very long.

Bike stators aren't like car stators. They produce a given amount of power at a given RPM, regardless of load, and the stator's output is the limiting factor in how many lights/accessories you can use. Because your factory stator has such limited output, it can't power both filaments of your headlight simultaneously at low RPMs. You will not hurt the stator; it produces the same power regardless of load.

Ok. So I need to disconnect the two elements from each other and just figure out which one is hi beam then just aim it down a 'lil...... orrrrrrrrrrrrr carry a couple, few extra bulbs with me, that will most likely be broke from bouncing around in the fender bag by the time I need them, for when the bulb over heats and burns out or melts a wire.

So I'll switch it to the element that I didn't try by itself yet.

Thanx for the knowledge!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×