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2009 - Boyesen QS3 recomended ?

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As you all know, 06-09 CRFs can be a pain to start, my 09 is a bitch to start when cold, but once shes fired up, she runs very strong and starts 1st kick after when hot.. the problem is when shes cold. I have some tricks, but at the heat of the momment it still sucks and can take forever..

So I was reading, and people were sayin that installing the QS3 helped lots, and also improved performance eliminating bog, now that was all with WRs, KXs, but what about CRFs ? is it recommended ? Will it really help cold starting ?

:busted:

and nah, its definetely not jetting or valves or whathever..

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QS2 will not help your starting issue. I'll first assume you have selecyed the correct pilot jet and properly adjusted the fuel screw according to the following method:

Fuel screw settings in the 'book' are recommended starting points. Every bike is different, as is the temp and altitude. Set the screw according to this method. Do it with the bike fully heated up.

Gently turn the screw all the way in. Now back it out two turns. Start the bike and fully warm it up, go for a 10 minute ride. Set the idle to speed to 1,500~1,800 RPM as best you can (I know, without a tach this is tough, just set it to were it idles relatively smoothly). Once warmed, slow the idle to the lowest possible speed.

*** When turning the fuel screw, keep an accurate 'count' of the amount you are turning it and record it in case you have to reset it for some reason. Makes life easier when you can just set it from notes Vs. going through the procedure again.***

Turn the screw in until the idle becomes rough or the bike stalls.

if it stalled, open the screw about 1/4 more turn. Restart it and slowly screw it in till you can just perceive a change.

If the screw can be turned all the way in and the bike still idles perfectly and does not stall, then you need to go down a size in pilot jet.

Now very slowly, open the fuel screw till the idle is smooth. Blip the throttle, let the bike return to an idle, wait say ten seconds. Confirm it is the same smooth idle.

If the screw has to be opened more than 3 turns to get a smooth idle, you need to go up a size in pilot jet.

If you find it does not stall with the larger jet but has to be open more than three turns with the smaller pilot jet, put the larger one in and set the fuel screw at 1/2 turn.

If the idle speed increased, adjust the idle speed knob to return the bike to a real slow idle speed. You must then re-visit the fuel screw. Keep doing this till the fuel screw is opened just enough to provide a nice steady idle at the lowest possible RPM. Once this is done, increase the idle speed to the normal one for your bike, typically about 1,800 rpm, but go by the spec in your manual.

Next, I'll further assume you have checked and set teh valve clearances.

Next, you need to descride the cold start issue. The bike fires then stalls or does not start at all? Always fires right up when warm?

Your last comment (if true) then means your technique is wrong.

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QS2 will not help your starting issue. I'll first assume you have selecyed the correct pilot jet and properly adjusted the fuel screw according to the following method:

Fuel screw settings in the 'book' are recommended starting points. Every bike is different, as is the temp and altitude. Set the screw according to this method. Do it with the bike fully heated up.

Gently turn the screw all the way in. Now back it out two turns. Start the bike and fully warm it up, go for a 10 minute ride. Set the idle to speed to 1,500~1,800 RPM as best you can (I know, without a tach this is tough, just set it to were it idles relatively smoothly). Once warmed, slow the idle to the lowest possible speed.

*** When turning the fuel screw, keep an accurate 'count' of the amount you are turning it and record it in case you have to reset it for some reason. Makes life easier when you can just set it from notes Vs. going through the procedure again.***

Turn the screw in until the idle becomes rough or the bike stalls.

if it stalled, open the screw about 1/4 more turn. Restart it and slowly screw it in till you can just perceive a change.

If the screw can be turned all the way in and the bike still idles perfectly and does not stall, then you need to go down a size in pilot jet.

Now very slowly, open the fuel screw till the idle is smooth. Blip the throttle, let the bike return to an idle, wait say ten seconds. Confirm it is the same smooth idle.

If the screw has to be opened more than 3 turns to get a smooth idle, you need to go up a size in pilot jet.

If you find it does not stall with the larger jet but has to be open more than three turns with the smaller pilot jet, put the larger one in and set the fuel screw at 1/2 turn.

If the idle speed increased, adjust the idle speed knob to return the bike to a real slow idle speed. You must then re-visit the fuel screw. Keep doing this till the fuel screw is opened just enough to provide a nice steady idle at the lowest possible RPM. Once this is done, increase the idle speed to the normal one for your bike, typically about 1,800 rpm, but go by the spec in your manual.

Next, I'll further assume you have checked and set teh valve clearances.

Next, you need to descride the cold start issue. The bike fires then stalls or does not start at all? Always fires right up when warm?

Your last comment (if true) then means your technique is wrong.

I have my mech do the jetting, he has it done right. trust me.

the procedure is to turn fuel screw on, pull choke on, hop on bike, kick it from the top, if nothing for the 10 1st kicks, i pull hot start and give it a blip, kick again, repeat till it finally fires up.. sometimes it seems like the bike wants to run but fails, i first thought it could be idle, played around, nothing.. (idle is good when bike is on) again, once shes on, and warm, its easy to start her up again with 1 kick, no hot start needed there..

so recently, i was at the track and this guy parked next to me saw me having trouble to start up my bike, so he said he previously owned a 09 aswell, ( sold that and got a 11 KX450F), so he told me a little trick that can help, its to lay the bike to its left, so somehow fuel is spread throughout all the carb, give it some slow kicks to fill it up, then kick from top, till it fires up..

its a trick indeed, but not a solution, so i am asking, wil the Boyesen Quick Shot 3 QS3 help cold starting ?? is it a solution ? (not the QS2..)

if someone convinces me ill have it ordered today

will try some other starting technique later..

btw. i live in Brasil, usually 24 to 31ºC celsius around here

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Try giving your bike 2 or 3 twists of the throttle to prime it with fuel. Then turn the choke on. Then kick from the top. My bike starts in 2 or 3 kicks every time doing that.

Dont know what your tuner did for jetting. But it should be 42 pilot and 170-172 main at your local temps.

William1's procedure for tuning the pilot circuit works. Makes starting much easier.

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So I ordered it.. got it installed.. whoala! 3 kicks needed for cold starts, tops.

Whats funny about it is that you can forget about the Choke button, its no longer needed. Hot start lever remains hot start (Some QS change that too)

And as a bonus, bog and hesitation issues are gone too, its basically instant fuel injection.

So yeah, thanks for all ya help, this case is closed !

iMO Boyesen did a great job with the QS3, I recommend it anytime.

:bonk:

funny how this tiny little thing changes lots.

IMG_0727.jpg

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If the choke isn't need when it's cold, it's usually an indication of a rich pilot circuit. Technically, the QS3 has absolutely nothing to do with starting the bike. It will help or remidy a bog issue depending on what was causing it to bog. I can't say that this didn't help your starting issue, but technically, it shouldn't have. Stranger things have happened with these machines! A couple blips of the throttle before kicking seems to be the best advice for starting a cold machine specially when the temp drops.

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Technically, the QS3 has absolutely nothing to do with starting the bike. It will help or remidy a bog issue depending on what was causing it to bog. I can't say that this didn't help your starting issue, but technically, it shouldn't have.

:bonk:

Precisely! The QS3 just prevents bogging when you grab a handful.

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