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Changing Gear oil Question

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Ok my 200 has 14.6 hours on it. And I am thinking about changing my gear oil. The manual says to change it at 20 hours.

So my thinking is. There might be some metal flakes running around from the break in and it would be proactive to change it now. Or am I wasting my money.

Thanks for any advice

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I'm not one to change my gear oil after every ride or anything like that but it wouldn't hurt to change it on a new bike because like you said, there could be some stuff floating around in there.

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Maybe I'm anal, but I change it every 150 miles or so. It's very little oil, and it takes very little time, so I consider it cheap insurance.

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First change for me on a new bike is basically break in + one good ride. From then on it's always by feel. I know I probably am just imagining things but I believe I can feel in the shifting when the oil is done.

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14 hours on a brand new bike? Change it now... And expect a lot of metal to come out

Yep that is the plan. I was all ready to drain her out. And I noticed that I have to tighted bolts back to spec. so first thing in the morning I go pick up a Torque tool. Then she will have fresh oil. And she will be ready for the big desert ride friday

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There is usually clutch debris in the first cycle. My current bike wastes the oil quicker then my last bike. I could a couple months worth of riding then, but now, its every few rides.

Drain it.

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Depends on the type of riding . Lots of water crossings , change every ride .

Lots of climbing and technical gnarly stuff ,,, every 3 rides unless your doing 100 mile loops .Then every 2 or so.

Pop the cap and look at the color of the oil... that will tell alot.

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My new bike procedure is: 20-30 light warm up, drop the oil. One good ride, drop the oil again and follow regular changes thereafter.

Every 15-20hrs after that depending on what I'm doing, last couple weekends were tough on the bike, about 7hrs, it's getting new oil today.

Like somebody else said, it's cheap insurance, and it's very easy to do. Just DON'T over tighten the drain plug... and make sure it's warm first.

MD

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i was told by my dealer to change it after the first hour of break in to get the metal flakes. and then i change my oil every tenish hours

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like most people have said, it never hurts to change a little more aggressively right at first. after that I go on a 15-ish hour schedule, but sometimes it stretches out to 20-30.

my advice is not to bother using the oil level check bolt. Most people can't seem to stop themselves from stripping it anyway. I just pour the oil up to the 700cc line in an old jug i keep for that purpose and pour it in without checking.

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It doesnt hurt anything to over change the oil, like someone already said "cheap insurance", but I bet there are lots of folks not changing it often enough and probably still getting decent life out of their bikes. I am an over changer, I run a rekluse and if the ride is especially abusive, and I feel like I should apologize to my bike for beating it like a red headed step child, I change it, other wise every few rides. I am sure it could just be psychological, but it seems my clutch works better with fresh oil, and shifts smoother too. Rotella t is pretty affordable, and works great.

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I wouldn't really worry about torquing it to spec, i stripped my clutch side drain plug with a torque wrench. Just get her nice and snug + a quarter turn, those magnesium cases are weak.

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didnt magnesium go out of style 20 years ago ?

most likely your torque wrench was set wrong and you didnt notice. or you didnt have a crush washer which has a specific purpose for being there. the drain plug area is usually strongly fortified by extra material plus its a big bolt and would take a large amount of torque to strip. 40-50ftlbs would probly strip it. 15-20lbs is good

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didnt magnesium go out of style 20 years ago ?

most likely your torque wrench was set wrong and you didnt notice. or you didnt have a crush washer which has a specific purpose for being there. the drain plug area is usually strongly fortified by extra material plus its a big bolt and would take a large amount of torque to strip. 40-50ftlbs would probly strip it. 15-20lbs is good

It was set right and I had a crush washer. Its a little 10mm (I beleive?) bolt, Rated for 13 ft lbs if I remember right. 40-50 ft lbs would strip it out like it wasn't there.

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my advice is not to bother using the oil level check bolt. Most people can't seem to stop themselves from stripping it anyway. I just pour the oil up to the 700cc line in an old jug i keep for that purpose and pour it in without checking.

+1 on that. :lol: I use coffee creamer bottle and have it marked for .7L which works great, especially since it has a "no drip" easy pour spout.... Just drain the motor, replace the plug, fill the jug to the line, pour it in. Done fast & accurate.

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+1 on that. :lol: I use coffee creamer bottle and have it marked for .7L which works great, especially since it has a "no drip" easy pour spout.... Just drain the motor, replace the plug, fill the jug to the line, pour it in. Done fast & accurate.

Thanks for the great idea. I stole the old lady's Pumpkin spice coffee creamer bottle.

Thanks again to all the Thumpers with all the great info

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I guess I'm a little backwoods in that I just use the numbers on the side of the quarts of ATF that I use. I pour it down to just under 300ml remaining and call it good. I've been changing mine every ride for about a year because I broke a tiny piece off of a spline on the inner hub that disappeared into the motor. I was never satisfied that I got it flushed out,and I've been paranoid ever since although I'm sure it was ground up and came out when I drained the oil after the first ride on the new clutch.

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