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Overheating or whatt???

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Ive got a yx160 and I had the carb jetted and it cleaned up everything and the bike runs great up until 15 minutes into a hard ride. Then it starts to bog and hesitate to the point where its hard to pick up speed. The bike basically sounds like its hitting the rev limit but at low rpms. If i let the bike sit for 10min it starts right back up like there was never an issue..

Im tryin to figure out what it could be;

The gas tank is full so thats definitely not the issue

And i jus checked the valve clearance and they r good

What do you guys think it might be???

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I checked the oil level with the dip stick all the way in and it was filled perfectly. I was going throught the electricial system and noticed some groves in the rotor. Im wondering if this might be causing my problems.

Here is a pic

a0efdb9d.jpg

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I had removed it so that i could take a better pic and it wasnt rubbing.. But previously before i bought the bike it must hav come loose and scratched it.. There is a lot of up and down play in the groves shitty manufacturing there.. I actually put some washers behind it to move it away from the damaged area. Ill hav to take it for a hard ride to c If it helped

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Not quite sure what you mean by "up and down play" in the grooves, but, the elongated slots are there to adjust the timing, advance or retard. If you mean the pulse trigger is loose after tightening the bolts down, the bolts are too long.

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I was trying to say that those elongated slots ur talking about have verticle play meaning i hav to be carefull when posistioning the pulse trigger because it can rub. But i guess thats normal so that you can adj it as close as possibly for better performance..

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When this happens its usually the stator , the insulation breaks down and shorts out internally in between windings

Personally i would go to an Outer rotor size ignition or Standard size flywheel size set up on anything bigger than 90cc

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^ thanks for your imput!! I agree with the outer rotor ignition because i think the extra weight would help the bottom end torque of such a big bore engine. Which system do you recommend?? And what tools would i need to do this job myself?

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You just need a smaller standard 3 jaw pully/gear puller to get the rotor off

Use a sharp #3 phillips on the 2 plate screws , We use an Impac

Depends on your riding style , the bigger the flywheel the slower it revs , but also the longer it torques

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Turns out that after i put the spacers on the pick up sensor my bike doesnt have any issues. I also went down 5 sizes on my main jet and it cleared up some hesitation i was getting. I also noticed the choke likes to partialy open while riding. After fixing all these problems its fine now :lol:

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This bike is really starting to get on my nerves. Sometimes its fine and runs perfect then it starts acting up. It was fine until winter hit and now wit the cold temps the mid bog is back. Weird how it only starts to happen after riding it hard for 5-10 min. I adjusted the carb went from a 22pj to 25pj and that seemed to fix the lower end bog i usto hav but i still hav that mid bog. I hav the needle clip set to the lowest posistion and i noticed if i try to move it up then the mid bog is a lottt worse and the bike doesnt really want to start. I guess i need a smaller needle but i cant understand y it would run so good then run like a pos.. I really think this must be an electricial issue, i cant see it being anything else cause everything i did has only improved the situation but it still persists.

Frigggg i dont know if i should try and find a new needle or buy a new stator. All my money is going to my new rm125 and i dont hav the patients or money to go out and buy a bunch of parts to possibly fix this problem

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