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PW50 oil injection block off plate

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I finally found a pw50 to buy. I picked up an 87. Was running when I first saw it and then the guy decided to clean up some wires and cut the spark plug wire...:lol: So I ordered a new coild b/c at $17... why not?

I'm stripping the whole thing and making it presentable. The guy ran pre-mix, and the tube from the oil tank to the carb is gone, although the one from the oil tank to what I'm assuming is the oil pump (box by the swingarm) was connected and dripping oil. I just want to be rid of the whole oil injection system. Is there a blocking plate available? Can someone link me to one? This bike won't be raced so I'm not concerned about AMA legality and frankly I feel like I'm going to break something if this thing stays on.

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I'm not sure about a block off plate but I do know that most ppl just remove the autolube pump take off the gear and reinstall the autolube pump without the gear. If its still leaking make sure the o-ring or seal is in good conditon

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I am a big fan of just leaving it stock and running the oil pump. they are bullet proof. like showtyme said, pull the internal pump gear and button back up. this will keep it from pumping anymore oil.

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Another vote for putting it back to the way the engineers intended it to be. It just works well. Of all the things that can be done to make this bike work better, the first thing is to leave the auto lube alone.

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Everyone I've asked seems to say keep it on, which is fine, I'll do that. However, as is, it's a bit messed up. The PO did some sketchy stuff to it. There seems to be a cable or tube missing from the top of the carb. On the carb there are the two L shaped metal pieces and one of those pieces attaches to the throttle cable. We are missing whatever attaches to the other l shaped piece. There also seems to be a cable that was attached at the oil pump that was then cut. I stripped the bike to the frame and in the process had to open the oil pump to remove the throttle cable. I attached a picture of the cable that seems to have been cut. What is it? Also, I'm missing a choke cable. I've never dealt with oil injection so i don't really know where any of this stuff fits.

oilpump.jpg

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sorry it's such a bad quality photo. It's sideways. At the top is the driveshaft, I'm talking about the cable in my hand, which attaches kind of at the top of the oil pump.

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That's the tube that runs from the pump to the oil-injection nipple on the carb. Normally, this has a brass sleeve on it that keeps it from getting yanked off the carb by accident.

I would head to the hardware store with that tube in hand and get an petroleum compatible tube to replace it. I've always thought it would be cool to have a clear one, but it really doesn't matter. You'll need to prime it because you're doing a complete tear down and also cause the PO was a hill billy.

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he totally was! okay will do on the tubing. I'm going to have to wait a while to get it all back together. I have the manual coming in soon and some other parts (new forks, exhaust, coil, new pegs, a choke cable, and a front axle). I'm sure I'll have a bunch more questions along the way. It's in rough shape but for $100 I think it'll make a fun little project. I bought it fix up for my nephew when he's ready to ride. He want's a red one just like my bike.

pw50.jpg

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One of the cool things about the PW50 is it came from the factory in a variety of colors and you can also get pretty much any color in the rainbow plastic off ebay.

So you can definitely do red.

I'm sure it's on your to-do list, but that peg that's held on by a way too long bolt is a huge safety hazard for little ones. Otherwise it looks like a decent find for a C-note.

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Those things are already in the garbage. I can't believe this guy let his son ride the bike the way it was. The brakes don't even pretend to work, seat held on with tape, start/run switch operated with a knife. I'm local to PWonly.com, so I'm headed out tomorrow to pick up new forks, a new exhaust, a brake kit, tubes, tires, grips, etc... Should be up and running soon. I took apart the whole throttle assembly to get the actual switch out of the start/run switch. I'm hoping I can find something to replace that without replacing the whole assembly.

Most of this project will be cosmetic other than figuring out the oil injection issue and some BFH work on the seized front axle. Rear axle bolt is being a PITA too. Hopefully my dad's impact wrench will take care of it. Working with the few tools I brought to college is a little frustrating.

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I've never bought from PW-only, but his prices look awesome for new. I've heard some people have had problems with things that never showed up, but if you walk in the door, you have no worries about shipping.

I bought an 80 with a broken kill-switch (ultra common problem), asked the owner how he shut it off "I just turn on the choke"? I probably saved him from himself, a little. He also had a KTM? 250 that threw him off a bunch of times to the point where his doctor told him if he keeps riding, he's going to have his spine fused together. Well duh, swallow your pride and get a TT-R125 like you belong on...

Anyway, PB Blaster or another Liquid Wrench type product will be your friend. You can use any momentary NO kill switch (I think, disconnect the wires at the end of the kill switch, if it still runs, you need NO. If it won't run, you need NC - uncommon). You could just buy a push-button from Radio Shack, but you won't have any "START" mode. I'm sure PW-Only has the correct as well, less hassle, IMHO.

Good luck.

Edited by Smacaroni

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If it were me I would just get a factory replacement ignition swith. It is designed to have 2 different ignition curves one while it's set in the start postition and another while in the run position. With that said I'm not sure if bypassing it or using a generic switch would be the best idea, but like I said that's just my opinion. As far as pwonly parts great prices I do know that the parts are from china but I would still use them for parts. Just remember you get what you pay for.

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I got everything really cheap from pw only, I'm talking $60 for brand new forks cheap. I haven't gotten it all on the bike yet, but I'll get some pics up when I get done.

I took of the whole cylinder, cleaned it up, cleaned up the piston and did rings, it actually looked like someone had done a top end fairly recently. Changed every gasket on the bike, new steering head bearings, painted everything (covers, frame, bars, wheels) black. The only thing that is kind of making me mad is that the rear shocks won't come apart to be painted. Does anyone have an idea as to how to best paint them?

bike.jpg

Edited by amh07f

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well if you are not gonna use the oil injection, as stated before, pull the pump and remove the pump drive gear and circlip then replace the pump...if you do...sell me those parts ..LOL...I am putting my PW that I am restoring back to orig and need those parts..lol

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Things have gotten a little crazy so I haven't had time to work on the bike for a while. I just got a chance to get some stuff done, had to solder on a new connector for the coil i bought since it wasn't the right kinds, new carb and wheel bearings, starting to get some stuff put back on and everything is all painted up. I'm just waiting on some parts. Hopefully I can get it running this weekend.

With plastics sitting on it.

pw2.jpg

Plastics off

pw3.jpg

Butt view :thumbsup:

pw1.jpg

He wants it to look like my old 250

crf250r.jpg

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