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what to look for when buying an XR600 that has been stood 2 years?

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Im going to look at an XR600 that has stood in a garage for 2 years and wont run...... i have a few questions i would like to ask the collective wisdom of the XR experts here.

I can guess the carb will be gunked up, so that is 1 poss reason it wont run...

does the bike need a battery to run, or will the stator (presuming it hasnt been parked up because the stator is bad) produce a spark when kicking?

its an 89 what should i really look for and weighing in the cost of a ricky stator if it needs one is it worth $670?

it is also road registered here in Spain :lol:

what do you guys think?

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Bike doesn't need a battery to run,,Yes, if you remove the plug and set the kill switch in the "Run" position and ground the plug near to a metal object (say a bolt on the head cover) you should be able to see a spark when kicking it over.,,Check the Countershaft splines for wear,,you don't need a welded on countershaft to deal with should you buy it..

To me it's a bargain at $670,,Same bike here would be worth $2000 .RickyStators are on Ebay for $130,,Bike looks good externally,,internally that's the gamble you take if you can't get it running to check for rattles and smoke etc..,It being road registered is also a plus,,can cost a bit to get things up to government standards if they aren't ,,well here anyway.

Edited by Horri

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Looks to be a 91 or newer bike. The photo you show has a rear disc brake, and pre-91's were rear drum brakes (unless things were different in Spain).

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Thanks for the info guys. im off to look at it Tuesday lunchtime....:).... just found out owner is unemployed and needs $$ for Xmas...:banghead:. would it be evil of me to barter him down??:lol:

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It would be best for both parties if you offered a fair price, regardless of what he is asking. Asking prices are always the starting point for a negotiation.

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Check the lower oil sofline for kinks, that will roast your motor quick. Ask me how I know :\

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Check the lower oil sofline for kinks, that will roast your motor quick. Ask me how I know :\

please enlighten me more as to what that is? do you mean the flexible oil pipe?

It would be best for both parties if you offered a fair price, regardless of what he is asking. Asking prices are always the starting point for a negotiation.

akarob, dont get me wrong, im not after ripping the guy off, but I too am unemployed and just sold my beloved diesel car to pay bills and have just enough left to buy the bike at the asking price........but no harm in negotiating eh? With the money i save i hope to be able to afford a cheapish lid, i figured if i get him down 10%-15% that would be fair on both of us, its been stood 2 years and has also been advertised for the last 35 days with no takers.............so its either shagged or people cant be arsed to fix bikes in Spain.

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With the engine running and up to temp crack the banjo bolt on the head and make sure oil is flowing very good.

Mine ran when i bought it, but i never checked this, aparently a oil line was pinched at the downtube its a 1-2" soft hose going into the engine, this was "turned" and was pinched a bit. This caused an oil delivery problem. Just saying if i were to do it again or buy another one, i would pop that banjo bolt and make sure its got proper oil flow. The oil is the coolant/blood/life of these engines, if it is getting good clean oil flowing. Last forever.

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With the engine running and up to temp crack the banjo bolt on the head and make sure oil is flowing very good.

+1. I also suggest changing the oil before even running the engine. For safety, put half of the oil in the frame reservoir and the other half in through a valve access cap. That will ensure that both the feed and scavenge sides of the pump have oil on startup.

The carb is almost surely clogged with debris and/or old fuel. Pull the carb and clean it very thoroughly. Drain the fuel and replace with fresh premium grade. No, it does not need a battery to run; the stator powers the ignition system directly with high voltage AC. Seeing as how that bike appears to be a 1991+ model, it is less likely to have a bad stator than the pre-'91 engines or especially the '83-87 models. I would offer the seller whatever I thought the bike was worth. It sucks not having money, but real life isn't a charity, either. I get lowballed all the time and it's annoying when the price isn't high to begin with.

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325 euros! or $439 dollars.....:lol:

needs aas far as i can see, new rear wheel bearings, swingarm bearings/bushes as there is some play, chain n sprockets soon, and tyres are more off road than on, would prefer a 70/30 bias like Heddenau Catspaw or trailwings

it sparks, there is decent compression, I can kick it over pretty easy without decomp but i am used to an XT600 and DR650 both with broken decompressor cables.......that and im 300lbs.......:)

Tommorow sees oil change, fresh oil filter, check the valve clearances, clean frame mesh bottom filter, strip carb n clean, fresh fuel............then if she runs, a damn good clean, as it looks like it was put away after a ride and not cleaned.

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there is decent compression, I can kick it over pretty easy without decomp but i am used to an XT600 and DR650 both with broken decompressor cables.......that and im 300lbs.......:lol:

There is an automatic decompressor on the cam, too.

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There is an automatic decompressor on the cam, too.

As well as the manual one? no wonder.......and heres me thinking maybe it was low on compression.........or I has stronger legs than i thought......:lol::lol:

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