Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Emission Plug

Recommended Posts

I got a 2011 FE 570 S and it has the emission thing hanging out the side of the cylinder. Has anyone put the plug (that comes with the bike) in. And does it improve the performance or change it? Thanks

Also I found an article about the Dirt rider guys doing it, here is the link. http://www.dirtrider.com/reviews/dirt_b ... ewall.html

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
pm me with your email and I will send detailed instructions.

I sent a PM, if you didn't get it please tell me and I will send another. Thanks!

DigDeep

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Shawntex, great info, Thanks for taking the time to do that. I will report back after first ride with FMF 4.1 muffler and flashed with new map.

DigDeep

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Shawn helped me, too. He's gifted at spreading the remove-the-smog-junk gospel! Results were good, but I didn't know how good until I took his advice and replaced the factory muffler. Holy cow, what a difference.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I had it flashed and I removed the air induction thing from the side of the cylinder and put the plug in. I did not remove the rest of the emission stuff though because as far as I can tell it has no effect whatsoever to performance other than a little bit of weight. And I don't have to worry as much about dust, dirt, water etc. getting into the fuel or in through the valve cover if they are still hooked up to the canisters. (please tell me if I am missing something)

I've put 75 miles on it mostly dirt to test it out and I have to say the bike absolutely rips now. I thought it was fast before but wow what a difference, and soo smooth, responsive and big horsepower gains.

The FMF 4.1 sounds really good!

My only complaint with the FMF 4.1 is it does not come with a spark arrestor, only a noise suppressor.

Iv'e had a couple of "flame out's" like some other guys have posted and were worried about, but my CRF, YZF and RMZ did it too / similarly so I don't have any concern about that.

Thanks again for the help!

DigDeep

Edited by DigDeep

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Dig,

My FMF Factory 4.1 came with a 94 dB end with screen-type spark arrestor, and a larger diameter end (non-94 dB) end without spark arrestor. FMF makes 'em, and apparenly some 4.1 mufflers come with them. You might want to give FMF or the vendor you got your muffler from a call.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dig ,

I would plug the brass nipple on the head and unhook the connector to the valve under the fender. That way you have no vacuum leaving the head or power to a device that is inop anyway.

Now you need to get some 95+ octane with no corn in it and a bottle FI cleaner.

Glad I could help, let me know if you need or come up with anything else.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ruger - Mine didn't come with a spark arrestor, just the 94dB insert. I had to order one :lol:

Shawntex- Are you running 95 octane for performance reasons or does your bike detonate with 91 octane pump gas? I haven't notice any "pinging" from mine and I have only used 91 octane.

Also do you know what the emissions pipe (the one with little brass male fitting) is doing coming from the cyl head intake side / what's it's purpose? If I leave it there and keep it hooked up to the canisters will it do damage to the engine / draw air because the other air injector is taken off? or does it somehow effect performance staying hooked up?

- Does the electrical power connecting to the canister open a valve or other electrical device in the canister or is it just a connection telling the computer that it is there?

- How often do you use FI cleaner?

Thanks guys!

DigDeep

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dig,

Cover the little brass fitting. Shawn advises that you risk breaking it off if you try to remove it, and then you've got a real tough problem. I just used one of those colored plastic nipple covers that you can get in an assorted sizes at any auto parts store.

Shawn may correct me, but I believe that there is an electrically controlled valve at the evap canister. Both he and I removed the canister altogether, unplugging the valve. He filled the remaining electrical plug with silicone and I covered it with self-sealing tape.

If you remove the evap canister, you'll need to do something different with the gas cap vent line. You can just buy some vent line hose at the motorcycle shop and zip tie the end down on the frame somewhere, or you can buy one of those little valves that stand on the end of a small piece of stiff hose. I went the latter route, bought a blue anodized one to match the bike. Works fine. If you go that route, be advised that the short length (1.5 to 2 inches) of hose supplied with the valve is MUCH stiffer than either vent line or fuel line. You'll need to heat it up with a hair dryer or in hot water to soften it enough to get it onto the nipples.

I use Sea Foam in every tank.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ruger is correct the brass nipple is vacuum needs to be plugged never good to rob power when not needed - un plug it. I run 95 cause I can get it here reasonably and sea foam never hurts, I use cheap fi cleaner in every tank.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, I found some cool vacuum line plugs and squeeze/spring hose clamps at Napa. I put a touch of silicone on it and slipped right on the brass nipple perfectly.

Now I am just now trying to figure out if I should take the bike apart more to remove all the lines or just plug them.....

DigDeep

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, I didn't know that they made spring clamps that small. Guess I need to visit a NAPA store. (I hope the parts guy doesn't try to sing to me. Hate those commercials.)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ruger - The NAPA part number for the spring clamps (they call em corbin clamps 3/8") is: 705-1301

The vacuum caps I used are NAPA part number: 715-1803

DigDeep

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ruger...I also found these clamps at our local Lowes store here in Colorado. They have a specialty hardware drawer section that has a big selection of these corbin clamps. I picked up several for fuel line clamps or radiator overflow hose clamps etc. I note they also have things like vacuum plugs too.

Looks like Lowes has 39 locations in Alabama.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

REALLY? I'm in Lowes weekly at least and I've never seen 'em. What section are they in, SilvFx?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ruger...at least in the Lowes store that I frequent here in Colorado, there is a section in the hardware area that has speciality items such as cotter pins, brass inserts, circlips, spring clamps, stainless steel bolts, allen head bolts, allen head threaded inserts, etc. (local neighborhood hardware store type of stuff). There are probably 20 large drawers of this type of stuff. Don't know if these items are standardized for all their stores across the country..but figured it might be worth a look next time you are at a Lowes.

Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah, I know that section, Mike. I'll swing by Lowes tomorrow and have a gander. Thanks very much!

Russ (AKA Ruger)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×