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06 crf250r on trails

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hey i have an 06 crf250r and have ridden some trails with it and done a 55 mile poker run through some real technical trails, just not sure if i am going to to continue using it or harescramblers and endurance races next year of if im going to use my cr250/get a yz250.. just wanted to know how may people use their crf250r for trails/ enduro races and harescramblers and like them? and what have you done to them if anything for trails?

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I race harescrambles with mine. its probably the most poular bike in my class. they make more power than the crf250x models and are an extremely light bike. you will prob have to gas up every 25 miles to be safe unless you buy an over sized tank. some good ideas for woods riding are a steel shift lever i run moose or ims. stocks break off too easy in a rut or any time you drop the bike i would def run bark busters either cycra probend or moose bark busters seem to be the most popular but magnum makes some real nice ones at a fraction the price. use stock gearing. 52 is doesnt have enough top end and 50 seems to make you wanna stahl a little more. i revalved my suspension too. i am going to do a little more playing with it but if you want PM me and ill give you a good set up..def spring it for your weight and open the low speed clickers up to about 15 and drop your oil level in forks about 25cc and low speed clicker 15 highspeed 2.75 in shock if your not going to revalve it. best of luck

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alright thanks. and i think the stock springs are good for my weight, i will pry take some of the oil out.. currently my crf is mosty stock excet for the spark arrestors and fuel screw, im going to install a jd jet kit and adjust suspension and take oil out.. but do i need to revalve? or should it be decent as is?

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alright thanks. and i think the stock springs are good for my weight, i will pry take some of the oil out.. currently my crf is mosty stock excet for the spark arrestors and fuel screw, im going to install a jd jet kit and adjust suspension and take oil out.. but do i need to revalve? or should it be decent as is?

IMO a re-valve is essential, I tried everything from oil levels to springs but until I have a re-valve wasn't able to commit to the real rough stuff.

Depending on how tight your tracks are you might want to consider a heaveir flywheel. I run a 9oz one on mine with 13/52 gearing and it's superb in the rocks and roots. Accelerates a little slower but stalls far less and is easier to start.

It is a great trail bike though!

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how much do you weigh. re-valve is not needed although if you rode a revalved bike youd love it. you can do it your self to save on cost or send it to a pro. make sure if you dont revalve you turn your lowspeed clickers out to like 15 or 16 and hs nut out 2.5-2.75.maybe more. use a zip tie to tell you how far your forks are moving. on your typical trail you want them to be using all but the last inch or two of travel save that last inch or two for those whoppers lol. dont run a weighted fly wheel. those are meant for two strokes. four strokes already have the rotating mass thats why you can lug them more than a two stroke. you will lose more power than its worth with a weighted fly wheel.

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gearing does not effect how well it starts. and the 13/52 set up i found just was not enough top end. it was nreal nice low end but i like the 13/51 the best i guess it depends on your speed and trails your riding what gearing.

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gearing does not effect how well it starts. and the 13/52 set up i found just was not enough top end. it was nreal nice low end but i like the 13/51 the best i guess it depends on your speed and trails your riding what gearing.

I was referring to the FWW not the gearing!

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I rode 2 regional and 1 national enduro this year and learned to ride one gear higher. Bike stalls a lot so I'm thinking heavier flywheel and possibly a Rekluse clutch for next year. Definately revalved suspension and went to heavier shock and lighter fork springs (190lb/6').

Aftermarket brake/clutch levers, MSR bark busters, a large read-out stop watch. The comment about the tank is erroneous. I've raced 75 miles and never run out. Actually bought a 2.5 gal one but have yet to use it.

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They;re all good but think the 05 R makes a good start for a woods bike. Single exhaust, 37mm carb, and the 05 cam had a good all around grind. Wouldn't count on 75 mi in our forest though.

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They;re all good but think the 05 R makes a good start for a woods bike. Single exhaust, 37mm carb, and the 05 cam had a good all around grind. Wouldn't count on 75 mi in our forest though.

04 and 05 had a different head on them not a good one either 06-07 had a better head but anything newer than 08 is best as far as the head goes. the 04-05 models had some valve problems

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I run my 07 CRF250R in hare scrambles and occasionally on the MX track (though I don't race MX).

I bought the R model to get the MX suspension so I could hit the big jumps with confidence and I didn't want the extra weight of the battery and starter motor on the X model. The mods I did to my bike are:

1) Cycra bark busters

2) Skid Plate (Works Connection)

3) Rekluse EXP 2.0 Clutch

4) Softened up the suspension several clicks. The plusher ride for woods is fantastic. They come stock configured more for MX which typically has a much stiffer compression on the forks & shock.

If you ride Hare Scrambles, I HIGHLY recommend the Rekluse clutch. By FAR the best mod I have ever made to my bike. Makes woods riding a breeze and very difficult to stall the bike. My son raced my bike (with some minor changes in setup) in MX with the Rekluse and fell in love with it. He may be getting one for Christmas if I can talk the wife into it...

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i revalved my suspension for woods but i did keep it stiff enough in the high speed for the occasional motocross section. however i would not recomend the rekluse clutch. you cannot pop start the bike with a rekluse clutch in case something happens and also it is recomended to re adjust them ever1-2 hours. thats less than a full hs..hinson is in the process of makin a simular auto matic clutch which has a 15-20 hour adjustment interval and still allows you to popstart your bike and use the gears to hold you back at low speeds. its not out yet though.still in the works.

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Bogus info on the rekluse adjustment time.

+1

I have 15 hrs+ on my Rekluse with 0 adjustments. All that is necessary is to start the bike, put it in neutral and rev the motor while your finger is on the clutch lever. If the free play gain is ~1/8 inch, your good to go.

True, you can't bump start the bike without making adjustments to the clutch cable tension (something you certainly could do in the field without tools), but if the bike stalls 99% less, who cares!

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After initial adjustment I have not had to do anything to my exp 2.0, and to bumpstart which is not neccesary since mine has NEVER stalled in the field since installation, just twist out the engagement at the clutch lever. Awesome product.

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have you guys ever just got on the brakes uick and not had time to grab your clutch? if you do the the rekluse will still staull..if you dump the clutch right back out with a normal bike it will start running agian as long as you are still carrying some speed. also, read your manual and tell me what rekluse reccomends for an inspection interval on that clutch. i'm pretty sure they reccomend you check it every 2 hours or so!!

if you choose to ruin the clutch by not checking it that is your choice. no one elses. i didnt say they were a bad product just said i wouldnt reccomend them.if i wanted an auto clutch i think i would wait for the new hinson one to come out then. watch the reviews..its never good to buy a product that one company has a complete monopoly on the market.

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Simply not true, you can lock it up in 5th, come to a full stop, never touch the clutch and never stall, get off the bike, due a dance, get back on and go, NEVER touch the clutch lever, the adjustment if needed, which it never is, is external on the clutch freeplay adjuster wheel, it takes 10 seconds and at most a 1/4 turn. You have simply never used a 2.0. I have tried everyway possible to stall it, finally found a way, after kicking it over immediately take off the choke and whack the throttle! Otherwise, it can't be done.

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