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Is it time to adjust my valves?

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Bike is 2011 TE310 (x-lite) with 11.8 hours on it.

Intake gap should be .15mm

In Left measured .17mm

In Right measured .15mm

Exhaust gap should be .20mm

Ex Left measured .23mm

Ex Right measured .23mm

The shop manual does not post an allowable plus/minus tolerance for the gaps.

Do I need to yank the camshafts and re-shim right now?

If so, does anyone know if I can use similar Japanese bike shims?

I’ve never adjusted shim/bucket valves before, any help is appreciated.

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I would be happy with those numbers. Valve gaps tighten as they wear so you are on the safe end of the tolerance.

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I would be happy with those numbers. Valve gaps tighten as they wear so you are on the safe end of the tolerance.

My TE450 gaps have widened (loosened) twice now over 5000 miles.

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I would be happy with those numbers. Valve gaps tighten as they wear so you are on the safe end of the tolerance.

Thanks for responding. In general, how far out of adj. can they go before I need to shim, do you think?

My TE450 gaps have widened (loosened) twice now over 5000 miles.

Thanks buddy. I'm going to keep an eye on them. Don't mind checking them, but don't savor the idea of yanking the cams and the bike being down while I search for the right shims...

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Jason from Minnesota over on cafehusky kindly pointed out that the tolerance info was right in front of me the whole time.

It's on a sticker on the back of the left fork. :lol: Not in the shop manual, of course.

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Yanking the cams?!?! If it's anything like my 09 SMR510, you yank a spring keeper, slide the rocker out of the way and use a magnet to pick out the shim.

Easiest shim change EVER.

-Dave

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Yanking the cams?!?! If it's anything like my 09 SMR510, you yank a spring keeper, slide the rocker out of the way and use a magnet to pick out the shim.

Easiest shim change EVER.

-Dave

+1, I've adjusted valve clearances on a few different bikes and I agree, super super easy to do. :lol:

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