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06 CRF250r won't run right... Help!

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My bike usually always starts on the first couple of kicks but the last time I went riding it started very hard then it seemed to get worse as the day went on. It cut out on me acouple of times on the track, and then by the end of the day would only fire by roll starting it. I took the bottom plug out of the carb and took the two jets out and cleaned them but still won't kick over. Will still roll start but dies as soon as the clutch is pulled in. What could be wrong??? Thanks!

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u cant scream valves when he said he it dies when the clutch is pulled in...but check your valves and look at your stator for chiips of the rubber coating missing

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i used to have a crf250x and it did the exact same thing that you are talking about... and yes it turned out to be the valves... i replaced the valves, piston, and rings and it ran like a champ... then sold it and got an 06 crf250r which later needed a full engine rebuild

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Will check valves... Could there be anything else clogged in the carb besides the two jets that you can get to from the bottom of the carb? Also it just seemed weird to me that one time we went riding it started and ran excellent and then 2 weeks later it's like this?

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valves can go out in one ride and a stator can mess up in a ride aswell. when my stater went bad it started for pratice at the race's firt kick ran great then it wouldnt start for the heats unless it was bumped started...things in these race bikes can go bad fast. they usually dont just start to wear out and start getting worse and worse. its just all of a suddent they are done.

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Check your clearance since your not sure. You need a base line. Carb could have trash in it, but valves are easily checked before pulling the Carb apart

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So it runs fine as long as you keep on the gas???? Something plugged in your pilot circuit. Did someone play a joke on you and turn your idle way down? And yeah check your valves.

When ever anyone says the bike can only be bump started that usually screams tight valves.

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Ok so I checked my valves and the intake valves are very tight I couldn't even get the smallest blade in between them, but I did get the right blade .11 in-between the exhaust valves. Is this normal to just have the intake ones wear out? Also should I shim it or should I just go ahead and replace the valves? Should I also do the piston and rings at this time also?

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You need a new top end this is why you need to check your valves every 15 hours. When they start to get tight it means the valves are sucking up in the head. The valves cup and the seats wear. This is why everyone screams to clean your air filter every ride!

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May be able to shim em back but it's a temporary fix until your parts come in . Honda parts are uaully cheapest and many dealers have a 25% off thing going on right now. Yes do the piston too, you'll be suprised how much harder it pulls when fresh.

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Amazing. Another valve job? Ya know if you have the cash, throw in a piston. If not have the seats cut and pop in some valves. Its very very simple to do.

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Dont know if I am going to send my head off or try to do it myself yet? How much of a power loss am I going to notice if I get the heavier stainless intake valves/heavier spring and try to do this myself vs sending the head off to crf heads so I can still use the titanium valves?

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get a manual and measure the seats how they show, they may be fine for new valves., You can drop one in and see if they seal if the measure out OK. There is a ton of people doing crf heads and possibly selling more than you need. You can drop a lot of money that may not be needed, IMO. They all claim to have the solution to a problem that can easily be over exaggerated.

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my valves were zero'ed out but i didnt have to cut the seats. had them measured and they were good, so i threw in new valves and tested the seats and they are sealing perfect.. so you dont ALWAYS have to cut the seats.. but if your not sure, then you should have it done to be safe.. its not to expensive at all. a lot of places will do it for about 80 bucks.

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my valves were zero'ed out but i didnt have to cut the seats. had them measured and they were good, so i threw in new valves and tested the seats and they are sealing perfect.. so you dont ALWAYS have to cut the seats.. but if your not sure, then you should have it done to be safe.. its not to expensive at all. a lot of places will do it for about 80 bucks.

How many hours since you replaced the valves? Let us know how long they last.

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