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Accelerator Pump Covers?

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i saw a accelerator pump cover on outlawracingproducts.com and it said it helped low end power and such. does it really help? and what brands are recommended? thanks and happy thanksgiving.

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save your money Cy... unless you just want to decorate your carb. Happy T-Day to you as well.

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ok, thanks guy. ill use that money instead to get the rotating bar clamp with hotstart, clutch lever assembly. is it hard to redirect the hotstart cable to the thumb design?

Edited by cygrace74

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I had a full R&D set up and it sure looked nice... Once I set the ALJ, i never bothered with it again. If there was any improvement, I sure didnt notice. In retrospect, an extra set of tires or using the money for riding would bave been better.

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a correctly jetted bike will not need a cover. the cover is simply a bandaid for bad jetting. you will notice the same power gains (throttle response) by playing with the leak jet on the carb. buy one bigger and one smaller and try them, see what helps the most

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a correctly jetted bike will not need a cover. the cover is simply a bandaid for bad jetting. you will notice the same power gains (throttle response) by playing with the leak jet on the carb. buy one bigger and one smaller and try them, see what helps the most

+1 combine this with the wire tie mod and your bike will run great.

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+1 combine this with the wire tie mod and your bike will run great.

that reminds me, heres the link to the "o-ring" or "wire" mod which is basically the same thing as the accelerator pump cover. i prefer a wire since an o ring can stretch and break down and eventually snap and your performance goes away.

use a wire instead of o ring like this guy did. there is a way to correctly time your AP (accelerator pump) down to the teth of a second. this takes a camera, slow mo option while recording the AP squirt, timing the duration of the squirt frame by frame till you figure it out. i believe my squirt is at .34 seconds which was timed frame by frame. difficult to do but can make your bike run like EFI. carbs are hard to learn but once you learn them then it changes your entire bike. my carb bike runs just like an EFI bike and sometimes better. its important to have your bike jetted correctly on the pilot circuit so it idles smooth and transitions to the needle after 1/8 throttle. you want very smooth power on the needle and then a food transition to the main jet which is wide open throttle. the air/fuel mixture screw makes sure your mixture is correct and you have no bog on the first crack of the throttle and no deceleration popping. the accelerator pump is basically EFI. it injects gas directly to your ports via an injector untill the carb was pump gas to it. bikes without the AP would have bog if you cracked the throttle rlly hard. the leak jet is what manages the accelerator pump and how much gas flows through it. theres a sweet spot for every bike.

heres my jetting settings, maybe something can help you all tune in your bikes amazing without the purchase of covers.

needle position: 3rd from top

main jet: 170

pilot jet: 42

leak jet: 45

a/f screw: 2-1/2 turns OUT.

this is for my 2010 kx250f

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that reminds me, heres the link to the "o-ring" or "wire" mod which is basically the same thing as the accelerator pump cover. i prefer a wire since an o ring can stretch and break down and eventually snap and your performance goes away.

use a wire instead of o ring like this guy did. there is a way to correctly time your AP (accelerator pump) down to the teth of a second. this takes a camera, slow mo option while recording the AP squirt, timing the duration of the squirt frame by frame till you figure it out. i believe my squirt is at .34 seconds which was timed frame by frame. difficult to do but can make your bike run like EFI. carbs are hard to learn but once you learn them then it changes your entire bike. my carb bike runs just like an EFI bike and sometimes better. its important to have your bike jetted correctly on the pilot circuit so it idles smooth and transitions to the needle after 1/8 throttle. you want very smooth power on the needle and then a food transition to the main jet which is wide open throttle. the air/fuel mixture screw makes sure your mixture is correct and you have no bog on the first crack of the throttle and no deceleration popping. the accelerator pump is basically EFI. it injects gas directly to your ports via an injector untill the carb was pump gas to it. bikes without the AP would have bog if you cracked the throttle rlly hard. the leak jet is what manages the accelerator pump and how much gas flows through it. theres a sweet spot for every bike.

heres my jetting settings, maybe something can help you all tune in your bikes amazing without the purchase of covers.

needle position: 3rd from top

main jet: 170

pilot jet: 42

leak jet: 45

a/f screw: 2-1/2 turns OUT.

this is for my 2010 kx250f

I just wire tied the ap removed my shock(to get to the ap screw) and tuned the ap while my bike was running.

also take note that some bikes(mine)are really cold blooded and may take a little while to get warmed up properly.

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I just wire tied the ap removed my shock(to get to the ap screw) and tuned the ap while my bike was running.

also take note that some bikes(mine)are really cold blooded and may take a little while to get warmed up properly.

i like to get my AP tuned in as close as possible while running. then pull out the video camera

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you can allways do what I did to solve carb issues! Go EFI hahaha..

How ever as others have said an AP cover is just a decoration.. How ever as others have said the R&D bowel with ac pump and adjustable leak jet does work but its rather exspensive..

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