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another timing chain question...

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ok here is it timing chain stops slapping here ( see photo ) do i need a new chain ?

1004496a.th.jpg

i can still hear something from the engine but i thing its the cams hitting the buckets as the have to and i have been told the the drz has a noise engine

valves checked and good..

45.000km on the clock used bike no idea if the previous owner changes anything inside the engine ( highly doubt it )

Edited by Vatos_locos

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one more quick question ! since i asked 3 workshops until now and none of those 3 wants to take the bike for a cam chain change :S

in order to remove the chain and put a new one in

i have to remove the crank primary gear do i have to remove the clutch basket also ?

im asking because i dont have a clutch holding tools so if the clutch hub has to be removed in order to remove the crank gear i have to buy a cluch holding tool

anyone know if the clutch basket has to be removed ?

also for the cam chain swap i will need

oil

oil filters

coolan

clutch cover gasket

the new chain

is anything im missing ?

i know that it can be done without removing the head so are all these part ok or should i need anything more ?

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one more quick question ! since i asked 3 workshops until now and none of those 3 wants to take the bike for a cam chain change :S

in order to remove the chain and put a new one in

i have to remove the crank primary gear do i have to remove the clutch basket also ?

im asking because i dont have a clutch holding tools so if the clutch hub has to be removed in order to remove the crank gear i have to buy a cluch holding tool

anyone know if the clutch basket has to be removed ?

also for the cam chain swap i will need

oil

oil filters

coolan

clutch cover gasket

the new chain

is anything im missing ?

i know that it can be done without removing the head so are all these part ok or should i need anything more ?

I have a thin wall deep socket that fits the primary gear nut with the basket on... A few others have said the same..But that only works for the primary nut fix where only the NUT comes off.. To get the gear off, the basket has to come off as well.

Make a tool to fit the clutch basket, or make a tool to hold the flywheel on the left side...(lucky you that left gasket is reusable) . ..... Air tools will work as well to get the nut off.. but you really should TQ the nut back in place with a TQ wrench,,, and that means holding the clutch.

Edited by E.Marquez

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so i have to remove both left and right covers so i will have to order both gaskets if i got it straight ! is that correct ?

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so i have to remove both left and right covers so i will have to order both gaskets if i got it straight ! is that correct ?

stator side(left side) is re-usable.

you should just need the inner(large) clutch cover gasket.

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oh ok ! thanks for the info :lol:

so the parts needed is

timing chain

the inner clutch cover gasket

new oil, oil filter and coolant

and the procedure is like this one ?

drain coolant

drain oil

remove clutch cover

remove stator cover

remove clutch pressure plate and friction plates

remove clutch basket

remove the cams

remove the mcct

remove the p-nut with 27mm socket

remove the chain

drop the new one & put it in place

tight the p-nut while holding the crank from the stator side with a 26mm socket

place the mcct

timing the cams

set mcct

check valves clearance Intake : 0.15mm, Exhaust : 0.25mm

put everything back together

fill with coolant and oil

start the engine while praying

is that correct :) ? am i missing anything ?

sorry for those questions but its the fist time im trying something like this

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seems like you got the idea.

one important thing - do not rotate the motor while the cam chain is off the cams but still on the primary sprocket.

another - do not force the clutch basket in place when re-installing it. it needs to mesh with gears. if forced, the oil pump gear can break & ruin the motor when started. it will slip right on when it is lined up correctly.

go slow. take pictures if you can & feel it's needed.

if in doubt, post up & ask 1st.

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ok im going to start picking the parts up

im gonna take photos if it end well we can make it how to :lol:

i know that the basket needs its way in

why i do not have to rotate the motor while the chain is off ? because of the TDC spot ?

i wasn't going to rotate it but for educational propose :)

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something else are the wiseco/did/prox cam chains any good or should i stick with the oem ?

The stock one lasted 40k kilometers. Hard to beat that.

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ok im going to start picking the parts up

im gonna take photos if it end well we can make it how to :lol:

i know that the basket needs its way in

why i do not have to rotate the motor while the chain is off ? because of the TDC spot ?

i wasn't going to rotate it but for educational propose :)

no problem with chain completely off. only a problem when chain is off cams & still on primary sprocket & chain is not being supported.

if motor is rotated in that condition, it's possible for the chain to wad up around the primary sprocket & break the guide holder portion of the case.

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ok im going to start picking the parts up

im gonna take photos if it end well we can make it how to :)

i know that the basket needs its way in

why i do not have to rotate the motor while the chain is off ? because of the TDC spot ?

i wasn't going to rotate it but for educational propose :banghead:

I think you get it's not about timing the cams, your going to do that no mater.. But as stated,, with the chain slack, you rotate the crank and chances are good the chain will wad up and force the lower end of the guide to the point it busts the lower slot it fits in...

A user here just did that a few weeks back.

something else are the wiseco/did/prox cam chains any good or should i stick with the oem ?

OEM chain, and source it for a Kawasaki KLX400 2003.. It likely with be cheaper, as will most any OEM part then the same Suzuki part.. Heck most the time my Kawasaki KLX400 2003 sourced parts come to me in a Suzuki parts bag with a Kawasaki part number sticky slapped on top. :lol:

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It would, as would the CAM ID article I started weeks ago, and the "things I would do to a DRZ for reliability" article I started 4 months ago... and a dozen others I have in my head, just no time... I just finished an article for a gun site I frequent... with that done, one for the DRZ might come next..:lol:

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no problem with chain completely off. only a problem when chain is off cams & still on primary sprocket & chain is not being supported.

if motor is rotated in that condition, it's possible for the chain to wad up around the primary sprocket & break the guide holder portion of the case.

I think you get it's not about timing the cams, your going to do that no mater.. But as stated,, with the chain slack, you rotate the crank and chances are good the chain will wad up and force the lower end of the guide to the point it busts the lower slot it fits in...

A user here just did that a few weeks back.

OEM chain, and source it for a Kawasaki KLX400 2003.. It likely with be cheaper, as will most any OEM part then the same Suzuki part.. Heck most the time my Kawasaki KLX400 2003 sourced parts come to me in a Suzuki parts bag with a Kawasaki part number sticky slapped on top. :lol:

i see ! i wont turn the motor before i remove the chain anyway :banghead:

as for the chain i try'd to find the KLX oem but still im hitting on wiseco's

im gonna give them a try :)

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Both quotes from ronayers.com

KLX400 OEM chain

CHAIN,CAMSHAFT DRIVE

Mfg. Part Number: 92057-S016

SKU: 1089026 MSRP: $53.95

Your Price: $40.94

DRZ400 OEM chain

CHAIN COMP,CAMS

Mfg. Part Number: 12760-29F01

SKU: 160591 MSRP: $76.35

Your Price: $63.23

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