Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

need some jetting help for a 2012

Recommended Posts

couldnt find any info on 2012 jetting on here. opened up air box(top only), jb weld smog block off. needle in 5th position. mixture screw 1 3/4 out. opened up pipe. main jet is a 165 and leak is a 55. does this sound correct? thanks. at sea level.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

F.I. doesn't require jetting....... Oh wait....maybe next year. :lol:

Sorry- just had to vent briefly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
couldnt find any info on 2012 jetting on here. opened up air box(top only), jb weld smog block off. needle in 5th position. mixture screw 1 3/4 out. opened up pipe. main jet is a 165 and leak is a 55. does this sound correct? thanks. at sea level.

Yes that is correct.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i dont know whats going on now but bike wont stop popping after whacking the throttle. does anybody know why it does this?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i opened it up another half didnt seem any better, i will go bigger on the pilot. i have a big gray hose and a small black hose that go to nothing on top of the motor. is that how they are supposed to be? the small black hose goes to the top of the carb and the gray one goes to a 't' fitting

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fuel screw: for idle only, or at throttle off positions. 'Popping' upon deceleration is a 'lean' condition, usually caused by the fuel screw adjustment.

The fuel screw is to be set for max idle, then the idle dropped as low as possible, then repeat it again. If the screw is less than one turn, your pilot needs to be smaller. If it's more than 1.5 it needs to be bigger. If you have an aftermarket pipe, the bike will always pop a little on decel. Fuel screw needs to be re-adjusted for changes in temp and air density.

Other less common causes for decel popping are air leaks at the pipe mounting/junctions, air boot leak, carb not seated into airboot (venturi turbulance), and valves out of adjustment.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i went to a 48 pilot fuel screw is at 2 1/4 out now, still got popping going on. new bike one ride. air boots are on secure

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i went to a 48 pilot fuel screw is at 2 1/4 out now, still got popping going on. new bike one ride. air boots are on secure

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i went to a 48 pilot fuel screw is at 2 1/4 out now, still got popping going on. new bike one ride. air boots are on secure

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i went to a 48 pilot fuel screw is at 2 1/4 out now, still got popping going on. new bike one ride. air boots are on secure runs fine with choke out

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

put in the 48 pilot. still popping. mixture screw is at 2 1/4 out now. air boots on secure. new bike 1 ride on it. runs fine with choke on

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

put in the 48 pilot. still popping. mixture screw is at 2 1/4 out now. air boots on secure. new bike 1 ride on it. runs fine with choke on

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
i went to a 48 pilot fuel screw is at 2 1/4 out now, still got popping going on. new bike one ride. air boots are on secure

You have something wrong. A 48 pilot is as big as you can accommodate, even with stage III porting and a cam. You have an air leak. 2 1/2 turns means your fuel screw is no longer doing anything, and will probably fall out.

If your bike is truly 'new, one ride', you should not be testing for popping, you should be seating the rings, before it's too late. You only get a window of about 2 hours of break in before it's done.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i went through a tank of gas for my first break in ride. then decided to do the mods. all bad now. my pipe is wide open. no spark arrester

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

pilot jet is a 48, turned fuel screw out 3 turns and idle kept getting higher. does this mean i have to raise the needle clip position?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
pilot jet is a 48, turned fuel screw out 3 turns and idle kept getting higher. does this mean i have to raise the needle clip position?

As mentioned before, you have another problem somewhere.

If you need to turn the fuel screw out past two turns, you normally go up on the pilot.

Your issue is that you have an air leak somewhere, requiring more fuel (bigger pilot, more screw turns) to get the proper mixture.

- Hot start cable sticking / corroded plunger

- clogged air jet (in the bell)

- leaking air boot, carb top, slide plate

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What did you do to the muffler? you said it is "wide open now"

Did you take the entire spark arrestor assembly out? If so, that is your problem, no back pressure at all and VERY LOUD, put it back in!!! The bike will LOSE power with the muffler completely gutted, and it will be obnoxiously loud!!! That much noise causes big problems for all us motorcycle riders.

Want more exhaust flow? There are lots of aftermarker slip on pipes available that are also 94dBa. Good quiet power.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes its wide open. have a new pipe coming in tomoro. leo vince full system.never thought about the back pressure thing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×