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won't go into gear

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I've got a 2007 CRF50 that is stuck in neutral. I've tried adjusting the clutch adjustment screw but that didn't seem to work. It seems like it's shifting down but not up...any ideas what the problem might be?

Thanks

Edited by ducati07

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You're probably going to have to remove the right side engine cover, doing so might give you a clue as to what exacty is wrong. You will have to drain the engine oil, and drain the carb float bowl and fuel tank. Opening up the right side is best accomplished with the bike lying on its left side, to prevent the clutch parts from falling out. The best way, once everything is drained, is to use a car tire under each of the bike's wheels, letting the handlebar rest on the ground. You do not want the shift lever touching the ground, you'll see why when you open up the right side.

Once you open it up, take pictures of the right side of the engine and post them up here, someone might be able to see what is wrong in a pic. It could be as simple as the shift star bolt backed out a little, to the shift actuator arm is broken, or something is jammed somewhere.

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The pictures don't seem to be loading so I've inserted a link. I took the cover off and there wasn't anything totally obvious like metal shavings or broken springs or a broken fork. Is there any special angle I should take?

Thanks again.

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It looks like something is jammed in between the engine case bottom and the shift shaft spring in the pic below. Maybe try and dislodge it if you can, and if it pops out, take a few pics of whatever that is...it had to come from somewhere. From looking at the other pics, it appears that the shift star bolt is still in place, everything else looks to be in place. Keep us posted...

6407906535_af7a8a9a54_b-1.jpg

TIMEOUT!

Looking at the piece closer, it looks like it is the end of the shift star detent arm, where there is a small roller. It looks like it has broken off from the rest of the detent arm itself. The detent arm is behind the primary drive gear, you should be able to look down by the shift star, and see what's left of it.

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The roller part of the detent arm rolls from groove to groove on the shift star as you shift it, and holds the shift drum in place, to keep the bike in that gear. If it is broken off, and jammed under the shift shaft spring, chances are, the shift actuator arm is between drum pegs, not shifting the drum in or out of gear.

You will have to remove the clutch assembly with a special tool, ($15.00, usually), then remove the big primary drive gear to access the detent arm bolt to change the arm. The detent arm is part #7 in the microfiche diagram shown HERE.

6407896027_1a29110573_b-1.jpg

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Here's what it looks like with the clutch and primary drive gear removed. I'm sure the piece at the bottom is what you see in this pic in the neutral groove of the shift star. And, so not to confuse you, the pic below if of an older Z50R engine, which has a 3-down shift pattern, unlike the 3-up on your CRF50. In your pic, it looks like your trans is in neutral, according to the position of your shift star.

DCP_0467-1.jpg

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Wow! Thanks for all the help with this and great eye to catch that! I can't believe you saw that!! I think you are right, it looks like that part snapped.

But, I've been unable to remove the clutch to be sure. I went to Napa and bought a pulley puller but it seems like it's too small to pull the clutch off. Is there a special clutch puller I need to find?

Once again, thanks so much for helping me with this project!

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Remove the four small philips head screws and the cover. Under that is the clutch nut, you need a special tool to remove it. you can cheat with a screwdriver and hammer, but only once. The tool is about $12.00 and worth having in your toolbox. Click HERE to see it.

It is pretty self-explanatory, there is a special locking washer with seven tangs, one of which is bent over to hold the clutch nut from backing off. once you remove the nut and locking washer, you can lift the clutch basket off the crank end. Then use the lockring pliers to remove the lockring holding the primary drive gear, and lift that off. You now have access to the detent arm bolt. Take a pic when you get to that point.

EDIT: if you have an impact driver with a small philips bit, it is recommended that you use that to remove the 4 philips head screws. It also helps to have a second pair of hands to hold the clutch steady when you use the impact driver.

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ok...will do. Thanks. I went to Cycle Gear today and they didn't have the clutch tool in stock so I'm going to have to order one online.

I'll keep the updates coming as things develop.

Update: I just noticed that the tool you recommended is for a manual clutch and mine is an auto...does that even matter?

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No, you don't remove the other four screws, you gently pry up around the edges of the cover, it will lift up. There is a gasket for it, and inside the center of the clutch is a gray caky material that will need to be cleaned out after you remove the clutch from the crank end. The center of the clutch is an oil slinger that helps clean debris out of the engine oil, the gray stuff is that debris.

Once you can access the clutch center, sop up all the excess oil so you can see the clutch hub nut and the 7-tang lockring behind it. You'll need a small straightslot screwdriver to bend the locking tang out, in order to remove the clutch nut itself.

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I wanted to say thank you for the help with this project! I ended up getting that cap off, removing the clutch nut, and I got to the part! Thanks to you dtbkr, it only cost me $16 to fix my bike! I've been riding it everyday for around a week now. I still can't believe you saw that part in that pic...amazing!

Anyway...have a merry christmas and happy new year!!

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