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Bought this today

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I found this on Craigslist and jumped right on it. I ended up paying $1,200 for it, I tossed the plate from my 2005 DR 650 and drove it home. Ran great even after sitting for nearly 2 years. It should clean up real well.

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7,200 miles.

I need to either close up the air box or re-jet it, pipe had a little glow to it. I had to open things up to jump start it and the air box has been drilled . It also has a Yoshimura silencer on it. With the way header pipe glowed and the pops on deceleration I'm think it's safe to say it was never jetted. It was running on 2 year old stinky gas though.

After the first mile it ran really great. Oh, I also learned that an extra quart of gas added to your oil will make your gear box feel like it belongs to another bike. The clutch and gears are the smoothest I have ever felt on any make or model bike. Strange, but nice.

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Here it is along with my 2005, I cleaned it up a little. Still have a good amount of cleaning to do .

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7,200 miles.

I need to either close up the air box or re-jet it, pipe had a little glow to it. I had to open things up to jump start it and the air box has been drilled . It also has a Yoshimura silencer on it. With the way header pipe glowed and the pops on deceleration I'm think it's safe to say it was never jetted. It was running on 2 year old stinky gas though.

A glowing head pipe is not necessarily an indication of jetting that is too lean... stainless head pipes do glow at night even on a properly jetted machine. It sounds like you need to do a carb tear down to see what you have and then go from there. Obviously if it has a stock needle the drilled air box is no good. If it has the DJ type short needle you may have to complete the box mod. To be safe I'd tear down the carb for a good cleaning and float assembly o-ring replacement. Then determine what the PO did with the jetting. Nice machine BTW. :lol:

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Thanks Rob,

After a closer look today I found that the 1/2" holes in the air box cover were sealed with a clear epoxy, so they are a nonissue. There are however two 1/2" holes in the top of the air box, the snorkel still in place.

Took it for a 10 mile run tonight, temperature was in the middle 50's and the factory header pipe was glowing and it was popping and cracking on decel as bad as ever, or worse. Today I closed off the two holes. I should also mention that I put 2 gallons of fresh fuel in it today.

Valves are tapping also, I'll try adjusting them tonight if I get the motivation. Bike runs great and idels perfectly smooth, not even a hint of RPM fluctuation. Through the gears it smooth and steady, no surge at all anywhere.

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Great buy! At 7,200 miles that bike is barely broken in.

BTW mine always pops on decel when the exhaust connections get loose and or the packing goes FUBAR, even though my TM40 is jetted on the rich side. Once I redo everything on my exhaust the popping is virtually eliminated (for a while).

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T-30, thanks.

You may have nailed it. The guy told me the packing is all but gone and that he had some on order but never picked it up. From what I understand the silencer or pipe whatever the term, that's on that bike is a really nice piece. I've never seen one on a DR before so I know nothing about it.

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+1 Check the mid-pipe union collar gasket as well. Any air leaks into the exhaust system will cause decel popping to increase dramatically. Make sure when you repack the silencer that you seal the end caps of the silencer with high temp RTV as air can be drawn into the muffler from this area as well. :lol:

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Rob,

I'll check the things you mentioned as well. The pipe needs a going over because of the need for packing and also the fact that it has no spark arrester that I can see. From what I'm being told this pipe is worth getting right. My friend who is a Suzuki street bike nut says the pipe is the first choice for the street gang. He could be 100% wrong, but I'm no exhaust expert.

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