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ttr 125 woods setup options

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My 10 yr old son moved up from a ttr110 to a 08 ttr125le. We are considering modifying this bike to make a worthy woods bike out of it. We ride technical singletrack with alot of rocks roots switchbacks... So far we have added a set of bars and ee barkbusters and switched the tires out for real knobbies. Since he is just a little short for the bike we made a lowering link and shortened the forks to lower the seat height. As of now the mellow power delivery is fine and has been good for teaching him clutch skills and throttle control. I know that there are several mods that can make this bike more powerful as he improves.

My questions are. What would order should the upgrades be made in to make increases in small doses rather than all at once. Keeping in mind that the mods need to be geared towards retaining a good torquey low end controllable bike yet giving some extra "usable" power for climbs....

Are there any chasis upgrades that help this bike in the woods.

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The first and biggest improvement I made to my wife's TTR for handling was a cradle. Tied the bottom end of the frame together (like Yamaha should have) and made the front end feel more 'planted' in turns. Eliminates frame flex and makes it much more predictable.

For power, a carb swap is a good start-gets rid of that plunger style choke and it makes (at least it seemed to me) for a more crisp, responsive throttle. I was lazy and in a hurry, so I dropped the coin on the BBR carb kit. Could have done it for half the money had I not had the wife whining about her bike being down for a few weeks.

Opening up the exhaust makes it breathe better (it's pretty choked in stock form).

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I picked up a 05 ttr125LE tonight, bbr the only cradle option? Seems kinda expensive for what it is, but if they are the only name in the game I can see why they charge so much

chain guide on these things is pitiful looking

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I picked up a 05 ttr125LE tonight, bbr the only cradle option? Seems kinda expensive for what it is, but if they are the only name in the game I can see why they charge so much

chain guide on these things is pitiful looking

AFAIK, they're still the only one offering a cradle.

As for the chain guide, you can either buy a BBR or other comm'l mfgr'ed one, or make your own.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=810706&highlight=chain+guide

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hmm, looks simple enough

is the stock shifter adequate ? seems odd with that street bike linkage on it, bbr sells a direct bolt on shift lever

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hmm, looks simple enough

is the stock shifter adequate ? seems odd with that street bike linkage on it, bbr sells a direct bolt on shift lever

The stocker is fine til the linkage starts to get sloppy, then it sucks.

IMS sells one also, cheaper. That's what I used.

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How can the carb swap be cheaper than bbr. Is there a stock carb from something else that is the same? YZ carb? What model yr... Do you feel that the carb made it less forgiving for beginner? He is an awesome rider and really getting the hang of it. I just dont want to loose the easy goin nature of this bike in one big step. I hear that there is a flywheel upgrade too. They lighten the stocker. procycle has alot of stuff. Will look into the cradle. We have an alluminum skid plate that kinda ties stuff together too. We are in need of the shifter linkage removal as well. The IMS one is only $27 or so from procycle.

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How can the carb swap be cheaper than bbr. Is there a stock carb from something else that is the same? YZ carb? What model yr... Do you feel that the carb made it less forgiving for beginner? He is an awesome rider and really getting the hang of it. I just dont want to loose the easy goin nature of this bike in one big step. I hear that there is a flywheel upgrade too. They lighten the stocker. procycle has alot of stuff. Will look into the cradle. We have an alluminum skid plate that kinda ties stuff together too. We are in need of the shifter linkage removal as well. The IMS one is only $27 or so from procycle.

Our TTR is still definitely single track capable for a mellow rider, it's my wife's bike and she's kind of a spode :lol: Think of the difference like that of a dirty vs a clean air filter-not a huge gain, or arm dislocating power, but just a bit crisper.

Some guys have had great luck with the VM24 Mikuni http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=842765&highlight=mikuni+vm24

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=842765&highlight=carb+swap

Others have used the YZ80 carb, and a long list of smaller, two stroke MX bike carbs with success.

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I can't stress enough to get or make a new (real) chain guide. You don't want to in middle of an uphill only to have your chain come off 10 times.

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who sells the cheapest chain guide?

all I can find is the bbr overpriced one

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I just picked up a 26mm carb on ebay. The ad said it was setup for a 125ttr and it comes with extra jets. I think it may have come from someone on this forum since they used some links to ttalk.. Gonna make a good xmas gift. Hopefully it doesnt require much effort to get it set up right. I suppose it makes sense to do the airbox mod at the same time so that the jetting can be set based on modified abox. Has anyone had much luck with running a pod filter. Do they have a tendency to clog up faster? It is often dusty in the summer rides here. Anyone know proper jetting for approx 2000' alt

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going to want bark busters for sure just saying, constantly buying levers and gloves gets annoying...

if you want some bigger power gains from it 150 kits are availible and some cam options i think.

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You will never get much HP out of the stock bore, big bore is a must for real power increases. I have yet to go this far on my wife's bike, but probably will when Ryder is big enough for it. The jetting mods, screen removal, and washer mods helped a bit. I went to a 14 tooth front sprocket for her and now she is faster on the trail. This makes first and second gear more usable. It works better on the LPO trails, but she doesn't like it as much on the Batey Bould trails. The number one mod is the YZ85 fork mods. The handling held her back the most, not the power. I also modified an e-start stator and put an X2 headlight on it. The BBR chain guide was a great mod too. I'd like a frame cradle on it, but she doesn't ride it hard enough. When my boy is your boy's age we'll definitely put a cradle on.

If you are ever heading north through Chewelah you are welcome to check it out.

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I put a 150cc big bore on my drz125, along with a bigger carb, it really woke that bike up

but it was a pita to start, too much compression, it was no longer a wife/kid bike

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Thanks guys. Is this the same R4sberg I met at beaver lodge? As far as the yz front end mod goes, how does it balance out with the rear end. The front end seems like a straight forward deal but it seems that it will sit quite a bit higher than stock. The rear would be a bit tougher to upgrade, unless it was shock update that would fit a ttr swingarm. Maybe internally lowering the forks would be easiest. I decided that building this bike up into a real bike would be very possible and would be better suited for our Wa state trails than a ktm 2stroke. There are not any real options for mini trail bikes that are easy to ride yet capable of longer distances and be worthy of tech singletrack with rocks, roots that we love to ride. The bike is pretty trail capable now since he just moved up from a ttr110 because he was into learning the clutch. He is still a bits short and has trouble when he cant reach the ground in the rough stuff. I have a lowering link for the rear and fork spacers to lower the forks and that will help his confidence and the plastics. We added some barkbusters and he got a shifter to eliminate the stupid linkage that makes it hard to get neutral when things bind up and a 24mm carb and fresh graphics for Christmas. I dont think that he really needs much more power but as he improves and the power will benifit him I will get the flywheel lightened and maybe an exhaust. Hopefully he can ride it until hes ready to get a KTM200 2t

Its only been a month or so and I am already missin the trails. Just finished setting up a couple timbersled/KTM snowbikes for winter riding. Is there snow at beaver lodge?

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Yeah that's me.

I used a bar riser and sunk the forks which leveled the bike out pretty well. I have not touched the rear shock, but have toyed with the idea. I followed Chickenhauler's thread and did the mod in an hour or two. Very easy. May want to wait a year until he is a bit taller though. Of course he'll probably be tall enough by next riding season.

I want a Timbersled Mountain Horse in the worst way. I bought an RMK 800 last year and have had fun learning the sport. Calispell has about 2 feet of snow, very slim. I doubt the lakes have much over 6 inches. We need SNOW! :bonk:

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How can the carb swap be cheaper than bbr. Is there a stock carb from something else that is the same? YZ carb? What model yr... Do you feel that the carb made it less forgiving for beginner? He is an awesome rider and really getting the hang of it. I just dont want to loose the easy goin nature of this bike in one big step. I hear that there is a flywheel upgrade too. They lighten the stocker. procycle has alot of stuff. Will look into the cradle. We have an alluminum skid plate that kinda ties stuff together too. We are in need of the shifter linkage removal as well. The IMS one is only $27 or so from procycle.

The ONLY advantage to the BBR carb is if-and only if-you also do their 150cc kit as well. Then, it's pre-jetted, and thus, a match made in heaven. IF you just get the BBR carb, and leave the top end stock, then you'll have too much carb for the motor to pull down low.

Re: lightened flywheel, I wouldn't shave the flywheel since you're saying you want to keep the easy to ride quality of the bike. By lightening, you'd also be losing the engine braking feature.

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The ONLY advantage to the BBR carb is if-and only if-you also do their 150cc kit as well. Then, it's pre-jetted, and thus, a match made in heaven. IF you just get the BBR carb, and leave the top end stock, then you'll have too much carb for the motor to pull down low.

Re: lightened flywheel, I wouldn't shave the flywheel since you're saying you want to keep the easy to ride quality of the bike. By lightening, you'd also be losing the engine braking feature.

I beg to differ, with the included jets that came with the BBR carb, even with the stock top end, after properly jetting and tuning the carb the motor pulls down low just fine.

In fact, it pulls down low better than the stock carb (which isn't hard to do).:bonk:

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Also, shave the flywheel with a TTR doesn't hurt engine breaking because the stock flywheel weighs as much as three Kenworth rigs. Even if you shave 24 oz. off it you still have the heaviest flywheel next to a B29 bomber.

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