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Lowered radiators, Li Battery, Tubliss, motor work

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You can feel them! Less weight, lower weight.

Bike leans over faster, with less muscle, stays leaned over with power rolled or slammed on.

The other big change is when in the air. Now I don't jump big, and some of the jumps I do are very vertical and slow. Normally I have to be very careful of centering my body before taking off, but it's much less critical now. Feels as if it's much lighter.

Until you land, or try and stop it, of course....

But the leaning over is the most noticeable. Much less concentration required to hold a tight line.

The Tubliss are deceiving. I kept thinking that the motor work I did made the bike MUCH faster; then I started realizing that my arms are being yanked hard because I'm hooking up more often. 8lbs of air!!

I had a stage III port and polish along with a '02 R cam put in (from Stage II and an '05). It is surely faster. Pulls hard at 8k, and is not flattening off like before. Bottom end seems exactly the same (which is still soft until 5k).

One more heat cycle, and I'll take it out to test the suspension upgrades too.

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You still dig the tubliss?? I'm looking at $60 for new tubes or $200 for the tubliss......, make that $400, got to cover the wife too. She's the state champ!!

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You still dig the tubliss?? I'm looking at $60 for new tubes or $200 for the tubliss......, make that $400, got to cover the wife too. She's the state champ!!

Yes, it works very well. If you have never installed them yourself, expect a serious pain in the ass the first time.

I tried the front and took the back to a pro.

The front leaked a little before slime, now no leaks. I only added about 2 oz of slime.

The traction improvement is quite noticable. I used to hate Maxiss Desert IT tires for being unpredictable. Now they feel like velcro.

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Which one mod makes the most difference?

Lowering the radiator makes a bunch of sense. How much lower are they? The lighter battery also is a no-brainer.

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I was referring more to the weight savings or redistributing mods. Was there one that was a big difference?

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I'm a fan of tubliss too. Some guys don't like mounting them but I haven't had much trouble. Anyone that buys them should watch the vid before installing the kits. IMO it is a big help to use lots of lube and forget how you installed tires before.

How did you lower the rads. Krannie?

Edited by i4bikes

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I'm a fan of tubliss too. Some guys don't like mounting them but I haven't had much trouble. Anyone that buys them should watch the vid before installing the kits. IMO it is a big help to use lots of lube and forget how you installed tires before.

How did you lower the rads. Krannie?

With a CRFR lowering kit.

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With a CRFR lowering kit.

Did you use the 06/08 DRD kit? Any pit falls or other mods needed?

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Thanks, I am running moose cages. :cry: I'll need to figure if I want to change that much.

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Thanks, I am running moose cages. :cry: I'll need to figure if I want to change that much.

Since you are using the Moose cages you can lower your rads for little to no expense. Heres how its done. Remove the rads and cages from the bike. The first thing to determine is how you'd like to bolt the rads to the cages using the existing holes. The correct way would be to helicoil the existing mounting holes in the cages for a 6mmx1.00 bolt. A simplier way may be to drill the mounting hole slightly larger so that a 6mmx1.00 flange nut can be tightly pressed (so that the nut can't spin while tightening) into the frame side of the inner cage, hex side inserted first using the flange to prevent the nut from pulling through. You could also possibly use a clip type capture nut similar to the ones used on the lower shroud to rad mount. Whatever method is choosen the goal is to be able to assemble the rad to the cage without being bolted into the frame. You will need to select bolts that will not extend beyond the cage so that the bolts will not contact the frame. Now place the bolted rad/cage assembly to the frame so that the new mounting height can be determined. Mark the cage at the point of the existing mounting holes on the frame. Disassemble the rad/cage assembly, leaving the front spacer tubes attached to the inner cage, so that new mounting holes can be drilled in the inner cage directly above the original holes at the point of the markings made in the last step.For clearence between the cage and the rad you may want to use button head allen bolts to bolt the inner

cage to the frame using the new mounting holes that were drilled in the previous step. At this point your cages are mounted in the lowered position that was choosen. Now attach the rad to the inner cage using the original mounting holes which were threaded in the first step. By using the orginal holes the rads and cages are mounted in proper relation to one another. Now assemble the outer cage to the inner cage.You will also need to fabricate a mount for the lower shroud to the rad. First bolt a small strip of aluminum extending upward from the existing mount on the rad but remove the clip nut from the rad and use a standard type nut to attach the new bracket. Mount the shroud to the tank and frame mounts then drill into the strip by reaching through the lower shroud hole. Attach the clip nut that was removed from the rad to the strip that was drilled in the previous step. The shroud can now be mounted,project completed! This mod is not as difficult as it may sound,I have done this and it works great!

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