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06 - 250X newb - First Mod Advice?

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I'm a proud owner of a stock '06 250X and am loving it. I used to ride a lot about 25 years ago but am just getting back into it so I'm definitely "novice" both in terms of riding and mods. That said, I'm pretty handy and am not afraid to dig in on almost any project. I'm loving the bike but have found that it bogs out on me pretty often and has even stalled a few times. I see from these forums that there are numerous mods available for this bike. I'm not interested in spending much in time or $ but would like to solve my low end issue as the bike has died on me several times in tight rocky technical terrain.

My first thoughts are to vent the air box with some cutouts, drill out the pipe per numerous suggestions online and get myself a JD jet kit. Does that sound like a reasonable first mod step to take that may solve my issue? Is rejetting something that a reasonably handy person can do on their own? I've seen suggestions around putting in a fuel adjustment screw during rejetting... how much more difficult is that and is it worth it? Any advice would be really appreciated. BTW - I live in the Northeast (Massachusetts) and will ride mostly on trails.

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I recommend 3 mods:

#1 - 13 tooth primary sprocket for low end cure.

#2 - Rear trials tire for low speed rocky terrain

#3 - Radiator guards. I punctured one of mine on a low speed rocky trail right after I bought it.

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A Jd Jet kit is never a bad idea (love mine). The installation instructions are pretty easy to follow and JD provides you with different jet sizes and needles depending on altitude/temp. Alot of guys on this forum swear by their Rekluse auto clutch set up, that will completely eliminate your stalling issue. FMF Q4 pipe will add a few ponies and keep it quiet at the same time.

Completely agree with the above post:

Radiator guards - a must!

Smaller sprocket - lower gearing will help it lug better

Trials tire - I have mine coming in the mail.

Edited by RRyder
also agree

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I'm a new owner to, as in I'm picking mine up at 530 today, but I have been on this form and internet for the last 2 weeks doin my homework and heres what I found...

1. Pink wire mod (pull it out to change mapping)

2. Airbox mod (slice and dice)

3.13t-51t sprockets

4.Uncork the silencer

5.Jetting and the extended fuel screw

6.New plug, fresh fluids, new filter and grease everything is a must on a new used bike!

I think these few things are quick and easy bolt on type mods (IMO). Of course there's cams, mix matching pipes and all that noise, but these are some cheap, quick ways to get a little more out of your X. I did buy a Rekluse Z-start used from a guy for $230, and he said it was the best thing he did to his bike! So, I'm definitely excited to throw that bad boi in there!

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You say that it bogs out. Is this just off idle? If so its common with this bike. Try the JD kit first and see if it improves. If you still have an off idle bog it will require the accelerator pump mod. Dont let someone talk you into the Quickshot or simaler products. The AP mod can be found in the 250x FAQ's at the top of this board. Its a free mod and the JD kit should come with O-rings to do this job. With the Jetting kit, open air box, drilled baffel or new pipe and AP mod, you will be amazed at the difference it makes. Your bike will rip compared to a stock bike. Check out www.rickramzey.net for a ton of good info on the 250x. I would also recomend a BRASS, NOT ALUMINUM air /fuel screw and replacing the float bowl screws with allen head screws.

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If you want some more high end mods, I agree w/ RRyder.

I also installed a Rekluse clutch & a Revloc rear hand brake. Both are outstanding mods for slower tight woods riding.

From your post I assume you are an 'older rider'. My experience, as I get older...translates into slower & more cautious. These mods will allow you to look like a 'hero' on most of the very difficult technical stuff, while still enjoying yourself.

The Rekluse is like magic over rocks & trees. You can approach obstacles much slower & still get over them. The rear handbrake is excellent for steep downhills as the Rekluse does not always provide compression braking.

My #1 goal is to keep riding. Easier & safer = more riding for me!

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Why brass over aluminum keviwa?

Over the years I have heard and read that the aluminum screws can get stuck and will also deform if bottomed out. I do not know if this is true or not as I bought the Brass T handle type for my 06 250X and have no problems with it. Plus if you think about it the stock adjustment screw is Brass as are all the other jets and needles. Must be a reason, dont you think? I think that some of the aftermarket screws are Aluminum because of manufacturing costs. Aluminum is cheaper than Brass.

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Over the years I have heard and read that the aluminum screws can get stuck and will also deform if bottomed out. I do not know if this is true or not as I bought the Brass T handle type for my 06 250X and have no problems with it. Plus if you think about it the stock adjustment screw is Brass as are all the other jets and needles. Must be a reason, dont you think? I think that some of the aftermarket screws are Aluminum because of manufacturing costs. Aluminum is cheaper than Brass.

You've got a great point!! Brass it is!!:lol:

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I would skip the JD kit if your trying to save $$ and just buy the needles and jets you need from Honda. I spent $16 for mine. I used the Pro circuit jetting guide along with AP mods and air box cut. Didn't mess with pink wire or exhaust. Made a huge difference with no more bog.

main pilot needle pos screw leak

CRF 250 X 130 40 NCYU 2 2 65

Pro Circuit 158 42 NCYS 4 2 1/4 55 Needle # 16204-MEN-671

Edited by usmcanglico
update

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IMHO, while some of the previous ideas are ok, I don't think they are the first things you should do. I think:

1 - open air box

2 - rejet and adj needle clip if necessary

3 - ap mod (this is the main bog cure it we are talking off-idle bog)

I bought JD kit and it wasn't nirvana for me. Perhaps my o-ring on the ap broke right away. I don't know but I do know that I tried countless jet combinations and now I'm back to stock needle, larger main than stock, wired AP mod, 55 leak jet and opened air box. I wired the o-ring after I finally opened up the ap and found the broken o-ring. This was a few years after I did the o-ring ap mod. My son's 06 X still has the oring and his is ok.

I've read that drilling the diffuser in the exhaust primarily makes more noise vs more power. I haven't bothered but perhaps others know differently.

If you use JD's needle, the main jet will be bigger than if you use the stock needle so be sure you pay attention to whose jetting specs you are following.

A new fuel screw would be good too so that you can easily adjust it. Get the T handle one from CRFs only. It is easiest to adjust in my opinion.

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Buy a 45 pilot jet and 158 main from dealer. Use a flex jet fuel screw, open 4x4 on top of air box and use a 2r racing exhaust cap. About $100 and you will be stoked.

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Right on about the pilot jet. I should have mentioned that. Some say 42...we like 45.

It looks like 2r tip has a spark arrestor. Sounds good but what I'm wondering is if the tip is the restrictor point in the exhaust or if it is the muffler itself?

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tip, the muffler body is essentially straight through. The 2r is an option for those 07 up bikes that have the welded insert. Earlier models might as well just pull the insert, either way both are sort of on the loud side.

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Tbh ive not read all other posts but first thing is get ur suspension set up for ur weight by a pro.Then bars and risers drop links,to get ur feeling well at home on the bike.Then good set of tyres to use in the correct conditions.Then and lastly engine.If i did my bike over the suspension would be the first.Made the most diff easy.Sometimes dident feel quicker but times tumbled down:smirk:

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Tbh ive not read all other posts but first thing is get ur suspension set up for ur weight by a pro.Then bars and risers drop links,to get ur feeling well at home on the bike.Then good set of tyres to use in the correct conditions.Then and lastly engine.If i did my bike over the suspension would be the first.Made the most diff easy.Sometimes dident feel quicker but times tumbled down:smirk:

I agree, suspension is the 1st and best thing you can do to your bike! You can have a fast, strong motor, but if your getting bucked around and don't feel confident enough to hit any obstacle, your not gonna be going fast anyway! Good suspension makes all the difference in your riding and will make you a better rider over night. Alot of people start backwards and start tryn to build a motor on a bike they can't ride fast anyway! Badass ,suspension on any on these stock motors and you can win races. You just have to know how to ride the bike, and its gotta be able to handle the way you want it to so that you can ride it!! Fast!:lol:

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Right on about the pilot jet. I should have mentioned that. Some say 42...we like 45.

It looks like 2r tip has a spark arrestor. Sounds good but what I'm wondering is if the tip is the restrictor point in the exhaust or if it is the muffler itself?

It is just a cap with spark screen. You just unbolt the stock cap with insert and all and bolt this. It removes all the stock guts. It removes some of the weight and all the restriction. http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/34833_192942270723114_100000220273706_797382_3248109_n.jpg

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It is just a cap with spark screen. You just unbolt the stock cap with insert and all and bolt this. It removes all the stock guts. It removes some of the weight and all the restriction. http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/34833_192942270723114_100000220273706_797382_3248109_n.jpg

You just answered my question I asked you on the other thread. Whats the link to this? I'm ordering one tommrow!

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