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Can you make a 2010 into a woods weapon?

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I am possibly buying a 2010 crf-250r and would like to know if anyone has turned it into a woods weapon? I know the suspension will have to be set up for the woods. I am more interested on how to make it easier to start after lugging it and how to prevent overheating situations.

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Ive been racing "R's" in the woods since 2002, all have been 450's til I just bought a 2012 250R. I would get the suspension set up and ride it, if you have a issue with being able to lug it put a flywheel weight on it. As far as cooling, I run a higher pressure cap and engine ice, I have never had a overheating problem.

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I love my 2010 in the woods. I have done nothing to it and since its so light, I feel like I have a BIG advantage over alot of the other guys. The only thing is, I do ride with 1 finger on the clutch almost the entire track usually. I've never had the bike overheat and I've ran alot of harescrambles with it already.

If your really looking to do something, I'd either have your ECU sent to Eddie Sinseros, or someone else with a remapping tool, and have them smooth out the powerband.

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I raced my 2010 offroad here in the midwest BONE STOCK except for a larger tank and a S/A muffler, with good results and no problems at all.

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check out crfsonly.com mod on the decomp lobe. it works great. also the bikes are graeat woods bikes..i have an 06 and 07 i race hs with and love them..i revalved my suspension myself and as for overheating its ot a prob after the 05 model. if you are worried you can pick up a set of over sized rads for like $100-150 on ebay. i always run engine ice coolant seems to work well. never had a prob overheating but cooler is faster so i run it.

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Ive been racing "R's" in the woods since 2002, all have been 450's til I just bought a 2012 250R. I would get the suspension set up and ride it, if you have a issue with being able to lug it put a flywheel weight on it. As far as cooling, I run a higher pressure cap and engine ice, I have never had a overheating problem.

DO NOT RUN A FLYWHEEL WEIGHT!!!!!!!!! people dont seem to get this. if your having problems lugging it down shift! FWW are dessigned for 2 strokes and introduced to the 4T because these companies wanted to sell more. two strokes run FWW in the woods because it calmes your power band and will allow you more rotating mass to lug it. a four stroke already has the rotating mass and a lot of it. thats why peak hp is slightly less on a 4T the powercurve is smoother and lugs a lot better than any weighted 2T you do not want to go overboard on the rotating mass though or you sacrifice massive amounts of hp and at a certain point the ridability improvements are not enough to compensate hp. you have to find a balance...HONDA ALREADY FOUND THIS!!!! on a 2T i would recomend a weight on a four stroke i recomend donating that $150 to a charity of some sort because it is clearly useless to you.:lol::banghead::):banghead:

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Someone hit a nerve. I wouldn't personally run a flywheel weight but lots of other people do. You could get an ecu tune to help out if you feel the bottom is lacking.

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I had a 2010 and i put a lowering link on the rear that droped the rear 1 inch then raised the forks up about 7 or 8 mm in the clamps. That made the whole bike lower and kept it ballanced and made it handle great. The lower the bike the better it will handle, the drawback is if you are riding in deep ruts you may scrub the bottom.

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lower ing links can also take away from the travel of your suspension. you will see that some of the poorly designed links cause rear wheels to scrub on pipes and fenders. they are more of an expensive fad. plus you loose your ground clearance

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DO NOT RUN A FLYWHEEL WEIGHT!!!!!!!!! people dont seem to get this. if your having problems lugging it down shift! FWW are dessigned for 2 strokes and introduced to the 4T because these companies wanted to sell more. two strokes run FWW in the woods because it calmes your power band and will allow you more rotating mass to lug it. a four stroke already has the rotating mass and a lot of it. thats why peak hp is slightly less on a 4T the powercurve is smoother and lugs a lot better than any weighted 2T you do not want to go overboard on the rotating mass though or you sacrifice massive amounts of hp and at a certain point the ridability improvements are not enough to compensate hp. you have to find a balance...HONDA ALREADY FOUND THIS!!!! on a 2T i would recomend a weight on a four stroke i recomend donating that $150 to a charity of some sort because it is clearly useless to you.:lol::banghead::):banghead:

i comletly agree with this! i think a FWW on a 4 stroke is pointless. thats what a clutch is for. 2 strokes hit hard, thats the only reason people use fww on them.

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not only the hitting hard but the lug..on a two stroke.. its like a diesle vs a gas engine..they just keep pulling in the low rpms where a two stroke under load is all or nothing...but yes. thank you finaly sombody understands

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lower ing links can also take away from the travel of your suspension. you will see that some of the poorly designed links cause rear wheels to scrub on pipes and fenders. they are more of an expensive fad. plus you loose your ground clearance

I don't mind my rear tire "scrubbing" on my fender because at least I know I'm using every inch of available travel.

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The Devol link I used didn't lose any travel nor did the tire scrub the muffler or fender. It did make the bike lower to the ground and that what made a already good handling bike into one that handle as good a a 2004 rm250 that i had at the time also. I lost about a inch of ground clearance but that never bothered me, anybody short it will help. I revalve my own suspension and had the shock valved lite enough that i did bottom some but never scrubed the fender or muffler. Also on a 2010 crf250 droping the rear some help that bike alot, most of the racers was doing it to some extent.

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i comletly agree with this! i think a FWW on a 4 stroke is pointless. thats what a clutch is for. 2 strokes hit hard, thats the only reason people use fww on them.

Honda clearly doesn't agree with you since they put heavier flywheels on the X model bikes. I don't agree either, even coming from 2-strokes riding off-road it's easier to find traction with a heavier flywheel.

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they just keep pulling in the low rpms where a two stroke under load is all or nothing...

what? all or nothing?

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I don't mind my rear tire "scrubbing" on my fender because at least I know I'm using every inch of available travel.

when it scrubs your rear fender though it will stop it very fast making it harsh and it might scrub befor ever using the full travel..the smount of travel is the same...it just sets lower to the ground..unless your short a lowering link is a bad idea...it can damage exhaust fenders as well as make your supension fall short of full travel due to the bottoming on the fender and make it harsh if it bottoms on the fender...like i said if your short they are a good idea other wise avoid them at all cost...maybe if you were converting to supermoto or flat track too but thats completely different you are no long using the bike for its intended purpose.

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Honda clearly doesn't agree with you since they put heavier flywheels on the X model bikes. I don't agree either, even coming from 2-strokes riding off-road it's easier to find traction with a heavier flywheel.

its a Totaly different motor and not meant for HS...the x model is not a race bike by any means...it is set up for the trail rider who plans on riding 5 hours at a time at a realy slow pace..plus the fly wheel in the x models is barely heavier than that of the r models..where a weighted fly wheel can be twice the weight of the r model...the x models were not built for speed they were built for ridability at a slow pace...HS are a speed race...not just endurance..if you ride a HS like your joy riding you are going to be bottom of the pack of course there will be the other guys doing that and the guys that dont finish the race so you might finish midpack riding how a x model is intended to be ridden...but either way the four strokes you are already sacrificing power to a heavier bottom end..it gets to a point that your loosing more power than its worth to have that low end lug..in my opinion for a HS you want the lug of the fourstroke not the lug of a weighted four stroke..any body have a dyno spec comparison of the two?

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