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help with checking valve clearance

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so ive had my drz for almost a year and done a decent amount of riding and i didnt know when the last time the valves were checked so i decided to try it myself. read the how-to numerous times and have it next to the bike while im working on it for reference. pulled the valvecover and set the crank to the index mark and the reference lines on the cams arnt lined up level....

just making sure before i go on with the check that i need to adjust the cams so that the index lines are level and the 3 and 2 are vertical.

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the lobes are at the 10 and 2ish like the how to says. is it not on the compression stroke?

the lines are only a few degrees off from level

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the lobes are at the 10 and 2ish like the how to says. is it not on the compression stroke?

the lines are only a few degrees off from level

Then your ok to do your valve clearance check.

Do you have a picture of the timing marks?

Your time chain my be starched.

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Mines about the same. One of these day I'll replace my cam chain. Still runs good thow.

I should have put the MCCT in mine sooner.

Are you using the MCCT or ACCT?

How many miles?

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its on the mark. i saw the T next to it. and yea i have acct. is that causing it? and is it ok with it like that for now?

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When just checking valve clearance the exact position of the motor is unimportant. Obviously the valves have to be closed. Line up the mark on the flywheel, or the marks on the cams or just eyeball the lobes at 10:00 and 2:00. If you remove the cams to change shims, then the position of the crank and cams becomes important. The crank is positioned exactly at TDC per the line on the flywheel in the window and the cam position is as close as it gets for the motor you are working on. Lots of things affect "perfect" alignment including wear and original manufacturing tolerance. If the alignment of the marks don't look "perfect", just consider would they be better or worse if moved a tooth in either direction. That is the only adjustment there is with stock cams.

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i read the how to before i started a few times as i said in the original post. i just wanted to make sure that the slight difference between the cams and the crank was ok to operate with.

and thanks for the help. i assume getting a mcct would be the better choice as well?

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OK, well you said "the how-to " in your first post..Which is really non descriptive of which How to, so I offered the suggestion of reading one know answers your questions.

i read the how to before i started a few times as i said in the original post. i just wanted to make sure that the slight difference between the cams and the crank was ok to operate with. and thanks for the help. i assume getting a mcct would be the better choice as well?

Yes recommend the MCCT as well.

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Sorry bout that. Thought that might've been enough to get it accross. No worries. I'll look into getting a mcct

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100MEDIAIMAG0136.jpg

guess it dosnt look too bad in the picture but the 3arrow is bugging me

mine are the same and a have a really worn cam chain and the mcct is almost all in so no prob check your valves but change your acct and your cam chain

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so ive had my drz for almost a year and done a decent amount of riding and i didnt know when the last time the valves were checked so i decided to try it myself. read the how-to numerous times and have it next to the bike while im working on it for reference. pulled the valvecover and set the crank to the index mark and the reference lines on the cams arnt lined up level....

just making sure before i go on with the check that i need to adjust the cams so that the index lines are level and the 3 and 2 are vertical.

Bottom line, with a OEM valve train, non worn cam chain, and working CCT.. Once the cams are on the compression stroke, and flywheel timing mark centered in the sight window,, the cam arrows line up as shown in the OEM service manual, (level with the head surface).

Non stock parts, worn anything and you start seeing some, to a lot of misalignment and off set timing marks.

With worn parts, after rotating the crank in the normal running direction, stopping at the timing mark, front cam (ex) timing marks will be level with the head, and the rear cam (IN) will be slightly retarded (like in your picture) .. For checking the valve clearances, you only need the cam your checking to be at the base of the cam lobe or better, just no pressure on the bucket. .. Setting the cams to compression stroke and TDC mark, is just a way to KNOW both cams, cam lobes are off the buckets.

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Basically you're checking the gap between the cams and the lifter. Obviously if the cam lobe is on the ramp there will be no gap. The timing marks are for getting you into the right position to check the gap with an un-stretched timing chain. Once the chain stretches, the marks will no longer line up correctly with everything in its proper perspective. Just rotate the cams so that it is off the ramp and check the gap. A stretched timing chain is a different problem and is caused by the infamous ACCT which makes the chain too tight, which leads to a stretched timing chain. MCCT is the fix for the chain being stretched by the ACCT and replacement of the timing chain is all that can be done for one that is already stretched.

HTH - I had a chain so stretched it wasn't funny but the bike still seemed to run fine for me and my wussy riding style. Good luck with doing your fixes.

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