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Free Power Mod & Headlight

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Hi guys

Finally got chance to spend a little time on my bike this weekend.

Did the FPM, not because of any battery issues but because a couple of weekends ago I did a ride that went on into the dark (winter:ride:). My headlight is wired to bring up both lights on high - so that's 110 watts. Some time after the run I charged the battery and it seemed much lower than it usually is after sitting a while - charged for much longer before reporting okay (Optimate).

I came to the conclusion that running with the headlight on full must be taking from the battery as my headlight is wired directly to the battery via relays. The standard RR feed must not be capable of supplying the power needed so an upgrade was called for..

I forgot to test before doing the mod:bonk: but following the mod I now get 14.4 volts at the battery, just off tick-over with both headlights on - result.:lol:

Here's my cabling job - probably not the neatest in the world but pretty good for me as I'm a messy wireman.:banghead:

81008dc0.jpg

31916b04.jpg

Also treated the 5W sidelight to an LED upgrade to make it stand out better at night. I think these projector type lights (on my cyclops dip beam) are too efficient at directing the light so don't give as good general visibility to other road users as standard lights - mines much better now.

LED Cluster type

456_big_501w5-3layer-w.jpg&constrain=y

fc21a3a2.jpg

Cheers, Rich.:)

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I dunno. The stock one on E here in the UK is just a 60 Watt high beam (spot light) so not road legal. I fitted the cyclops as I got it cheap on ebay.

Works fine at low speed on the road (low beam), great on high beam.

Good out on the trails too, since I modded it to run both beams at once, fitted relays and upgraded the wiring to reduce wiring voltage drop - nice and bright now.:lol:

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Hi guys

Finally got chance to spend a little time on my bike this weekend.

Did the FPM, not because of any battery issues but because a couple of weekends ago I did a ride that went on into the dark (winter:ride:). My headlight is wired to bring up both lights on high - so that's 110 watts. Some time after the run I charged the battery and it seemed much lower than it usually is after sitting a while - charged for much longer before reporting okay (Optimate).

I came to the conclusion that running with the headlight on full must be taking from the battery as my headlight is wired directly to the battery via relays. The standard RR feed must not be capable of supplying the power needed so an upgrade was called for..

I forgot to test before doing the mod:bonk: but following the mod I now get 14.4 volts at the battery, just off tick-over with both headlights on - result.:lol:

Here's my cabling job - probably not the neatest in the world but pretty good for me as I'm a messy wireman.:banghead:

81008dc0.jpg

31916b04.jpg

Also treated the 5W sidelight to an LED upgrade to make it stand out better at night. I think these projector type lights (on my cyclops dip beam) are too efficient at directing the light so don't give as good general visibility to other road users as standard lights - mines much better now.

LED Cluster type

456_big_501w5-3layer-w.jpg&constrain=y

fc21a3a2.jpg

Cheers, Rich.:)

nice ! what's that just ahead of your air box, the red/white tube ?

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It's my home made chain oiler.

Holds enough used engine oil for one days ride.

DSCF0906.jpg

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It now runs along the underside of the swing arm and drips oil onto the chain inside the rear chain guard - it's very effective and has lasted in that position.

Chain runs quieter and lasts longer.

I just look at the chain for time to time and if it's looking dry I turn the valve on. Great for if you've just done a few river crossings..:lol:

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Do you normally run with out a CS cover?

Yeh, I always ride with MX boots so don't need the protection. Also I often find mud so I want the CS to self clear as much as possible. It also means you can get in with the jet washer afterwards easily to make sure all the mud has gone from behind it.

BTW..what's the go with the plastic on your front guard?

That is a spare front inner tube in a clear plastic zip lock bag, it's held on with a pair of straps made from bent wire and a couple of section cuts from an old rear inner tube (a front guard bungie):lol:.

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Nice work....Do you normally run with out a CS cover?

BTW..what's the go with the plastic on your front guard?

I hear this a lot, that is one of the first things I take off. No real need for it as long as you keep the metal bracket in there.

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