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Honda XR600R Problem!

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I have a 1988 Honda XR600R and it runs and cranks right up fine, but when I get down to an idle it coughs and tries to die down, alot of the time it does die down, my dad says its sucking back in the carb. I have cleaned the carb got all the gunk out of the jets and everything made it run a little better but still is coughing and dying. I set all the valve clearances and everything. Anyone had this happen to them and know how i could fix it? we plan on stripping everything down today, dont want to if we dont have to.

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Try adjusting the fuel air mixture screw. Start by going a half turn in, crank it up and see if there are any improvements. If not, go back to where you started and make a half turn out, or one turn out from where you are currently at.

It is not uncommon after cleaning the carb to not get the screw back to where it was before.

Give that a try first and then we can move on to other checks.

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Here's a good you tube .

Watch the entire segment. & there are a bunch more on you tube. Very good tips.

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If your idle is too low your autodecomp is activating and killing your engine...

keep a nice decent idle around 1200-300 as this will aide also against stalling in tight singletrack.Also keeps good oil flow when in traffic and such.

after getting your fuel mix screw sorted out to achieve best idle try just turning the knob up on the idle and see if its stalls.

good luck

P.S. I took the autodecomp stuff off my cam, its easier to start and find tdc, it also will not stall when too low of an idle.

My bike does stall If the fuel is allowed to get too hot or if I jerk to a stop from fast bumpy riding...but thats because the carb is getting fuel sloshed around too much Im assuming.

First kick it starts right up after that though so get your jetting sorted out first.

Mine is an 88 xr600 too. except I had to ditch my twin headers cause they were pitted and rusted out. so I went with stock 2 into 1 and a powercore out back.

cheers

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okay thanks i got it to idle after working with it and idling it a little higher, but now i have another problem, went out to test drive it after i got it to idle and when i hit 5th gear and almost had the throttle all the way something in the head started popping and a little oil leaked out on the front left side of the head, but all the seals look clean its just right behind the exhaust... i cant see anywhere it would have came out. i got my xr600 from a guy for really cheap i knew there had to be something wrong with it

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and for some reason where the compression lever valve is i adjust it but it doesn't seem to keep the clearance i put on it, causes it to click when it runs really annoying and i dont wanna tear nothing up running it with it like that so its parked just need to know what i can do. i know motors and what not havent worked on much motorcycle engines.

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okay thanks i got it to idle after working with it and idling it a little higher, but now i have another problem, went out to test drive it after i got it to idle and when i hit 5th gear and almost had the throttle all the way something in the head started popping and a little oil leaked out on the front left side of the head, but all the seals look clean its just right behind the exhaust... i cant see anywhere it would have came out. i got my xr600 from a guy for really cheap i knew there had to be something wrong with it

Sounds like it may have a blown head gasket., Do you have a camera,,If so take a couple of pictures of the two problem areas and post the URL to them here..

Part 2::and for some reason where the compression lever valve is i adjust it but it doesn't seem to keep the clearance i put on it, causes it to click when it runs,. really annoying and i don't want to tear things up running it with it like that so its parked up..Just need to know what i can do. I know motors and what not but haven't worked on many motorcycle engines.,,Edited for ease of reading..

Is the spring still on the manual decompression arm which is attached to the head. cover??.

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and for some reason where the compression lever valve is i adjust it but it doesn't seem to keep the clearance i put on it, causes it to click when it runs really annoying and i dont wanna tear nothing up running it with it like that so its parked just need to know what i can do. i know motors and what not havent worked on much motorcycle engines.

Gotta do it right or you'll mess her up!:lol:

On Edit, found a real good video. Same steps on this different year XR600. Be careful & patient, on removing the caps on left side of case. Most are stuck in there pretty good. >> http://www.youtube.com/user/smallengineshop?blend=3&ob=5#p/u/0/Srv3y7kllpM

Edited by bork

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ima watching the video now but i doubt i have a blown head gasket the oil is coming from somewhere about and inch higher than that and i checked the head gasket and the valve cover gasket but they look clean. on the valve part i adjusted the exhaust and intake valves to .005 with the piston at the top but its seems after i crank it up the right exhaust valve just doesn't hold the clearance but ima try this video and see if it works. might have to wait a day or so before i can get back to working on it though

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I got the leaks to stop by re threading a stripped bolt and getting them all tight. idles and I can start it with the compression lever pulled but now I wanna know what's going on with the exhaust valve that will not keep the clearance its like it just don't wanna stay tight. I'm thinking it might be the cam rod anyone else had this happen

Edited by JohnstonOctober

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if it's the right side it may be the valve lifter for the decomp. when setting valves use the bolt on crank to turn engine counter clockwise to get tdc on compression stroke, don't use kicker, it will set the decomp if you have one on the kicker. if you don't, make sure the decomp is adjusted right, if it still will not keep adjustment, you could have a loose valve seat.

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http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=190952&category=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=1988&fveh=4310

Is part number 3 still on the manual decompression lever and if so when you remove the cable is it still functioning as it should..ie,,When you move the lever forward against the spring does it do its job of providing some sort of resistance and or tension and want to return the lever back to it's original position...,

and personally if you have the head cover off I'd do as elsalvadorklr and I have both done and remove the auto decompression mechanism from the Cam..,then all you need to worry about is using the manual lever on the handlebars which is attached by a cable to the lever on the head cover to get the engine in a good position for the kick over to start it,,One small oil hole on the Cam will need plugging with a piece of metal or whatever you choose to use should you go down that route,.

See here,,

http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=190954&category=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=1988&fveh=4310

Part#s,,12, 31, 10, 5, 11, 39, 6, 7, 4, and 8 and 9 need removing to take the auto mechanism out of the equation.,You will be needing a smallish puller and a bit of heat applied to part 12 to pull it off the front of the Cam,,then the rest of the bits can be removed,,Once they are all gone you put part 12 back on again and plug one of the holes leftover from the removal of the various bits,,can't recall which at the moment.,later I may do.

May as well do the bearings while you're there,,part #38 and 37,,should you do them make sure the sealed sides on the bearings go back in the way they should,,I'll tell you which way that is later should you choose to change them,,even if you don't make sure the sealed sides go back in correctly.,Look at them before you remove the Cam should you take it apart to remove that auto mechanism and note the sealed sides orientation,,must go back in the facing the same way as before they came out,.

Edited by Horri

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if it's the right side it may be the valve lifter for the decomp. when setting valves use the bolt on crank to turn engine counter clockwise to get tdc on compression stroke, don't use kicker, it will set the decomp if you have one on the kicker. if you don't, make sure the decomp is adjusted right, if it still will not keep adjustment, you could have a loose valve seat.

That TDC was a pain for me. I basically removed the valve covers and turned it until both valves popped up... Thanks Horri and Thump. Once i could visually see TDC and made the adjustment, everything was fine. Try this technique and see if it works.

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want to narrow it down to something simple, ill just say today i took the valves and set the clearance on the intake .004 and exhaust .005 with my feeler gauge. soon as i crunk it up i heard the raddle in the head turned it off and the right exhaust valve was so loose it had to be more than.015 when the left was still at .005

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want to narrow it down to something simple, ill just say today i took the valves and set the clearance on the intake .004 and exhaust .005 with my feeler gauge. soon as i crunk it up i heard the raddle in the head turned it off and the right exhaust valve was so loose it had to be more than.015 when the left was still at .005

I was doing the same thing for days. Trust me on this one. Take off the valve caps, crank the engine around and watch for Both valves to pop up together. This is TDC on the compression stroke. I was pulling my hair out using the t mark and thinking that was it, but it wasn't.

Make sure the decomp lever is loose, open the caps, crank it around until both are fully up and then set them at the specs you talked about.

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okay so get all the valves all the way up, loosen my decompression lever set them to the specs .005 and .004, Ill do this tomorrow, but it just doesnt seem right for that one out of the 4 valves just messing it self up unless thats why you told me to lossen the decompression lever, but ill just disconnect the lever and try it and see how it works. I hope this thing dont break my leg trying to start it.

PS. like you said about the decomp on the kicker it doesnt have one on the kicker and i checked the valve seats they are all tight but ima just take the docomp out or loosen it like jwahrmund said and try what i said above if it dont work what else could it be...

Edited by JohnstonOctober

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Back to reality::

The front right exhaust gap (the one you're having trouble setting) is always a pain in the butt due to the fact that the lever on the head (the hand operated lever) always interferes with it,. As has been sort of said,,Disconnect the cable to the lever on the head cover at the head cover lever,,Then push the lever back towards the rear of the bike or down towards the ground (whichever applies) so it doesn't get in the way when you are trying to adjust the gap., That particular gap always appears tighter than the others because of that interference..,If the other 3 Tappets move up and down a bit when you jiggle them with your fingers when the T's on it's mark and the Pistons at the top of the bore then you are on TDC of the compression stroke,,That is when you adjust all the Tappet gaps. Push the lever out of the way as much as you can or get someone to hold it so its out of the way and isn't applying any pressure to that particular Tappet,, then do that ones gap..,

No need for you to try and start it with the cable disconnected,,Once you have its gap set reconnect the cable and tighten the two retaining nuts up a bit so when you pull the lever on the bars and kick it over it seems to have no compression,,that means it's working correctly,. When you let go of the handlebar lever and allow it to return to its normal position you should have compression again,,though with all that auto crap on the Cam it can be hard to tell what the heck's going on,,that's why I removed it from the Cam.

Though I suppose if you have all the auto mechanism stuff still on your Cam it shouldn't matter whether the hand operated jobbies still connected,,you will still be able to start it and get no kickback due to the auto stuff on the Cam,,that's its job,,to take the thinking out of kick starting a large 4 stroke ..,

Edited by Horri

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Okay now that i heard that ima go to my shop and see what i can do ill write with the outcome

Just another question, I have someone wanting to give me a 1986 Honda VF500 Interceptor for my Xr600r, is it worth it? I was gonna make my Xr streel legal but with that i wouldnt have too. So would it be a fair trade, if not i am just gonna keep trying to get it running right.

Edited by JohnstonOctober

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