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Needs mo powahh!!1!

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Ok, so clearly the ridiculous title has brought you into this thread. I'm very new to the DRZ crowd as I just purchased this bike a couple weeks ago.

What we have here is a 2003 S model with 2k miles on it...and I'm thinking those were very hard miles.

It has a 49 tooth rear (supposedly ideal for trails), and after calculating my speeds with the how-to xls file, a 14 tooth front sprocket (topping out between 87-89) with my head tucked low.

I'm 5'10 on a good day and weigh in around 185-190 (factoring it fat guy over-weighing the bike). My normal bikes of choice are an SV650 and a KDX200 (as you can see I like bulletproof, low maintenance bikes).

OK, so all the general info is out of the way. After reading and reading and reading, I come to find out that with my gearing I should be power wheelie'ing in first and second gear NO PROBLEM. I can BARELY clutch up in second gear, let alone power wheelie it.

Now my goal is not to hooligan my ass all over the place, but I'm noticing that this can = a real problem of power delivery. I mean I have to be a t a dead stop to get it up in first gear. Even my two boring bikes below bring it with ease in first and sometimes second gear.

I have yet to tear this thing down and inspect as I'd like a starting point if it could be given. I'm a crappy mechanic, though I've done it all (and broken it all, having to redo it all again and again).

Could the carb be gummed up maybe? Does it require a gasket kit for re-installation or is RTV good enough? Does the air filter make that big of a difference with power delivery (it looked decently clean though i'm going to replace it obviously).

THIS IS A FACTORY BIKE. No power mods have been done. This will be my TAT bike next year so it has to work at all elevations and I'm not really wanting to jet it for the east coast (right on the coast) to have it suck ass in the mountains of Colorado.

Summary: Bike feels slow, need power for doing backflips and awesom0 whips :lol:

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Welcome;

Gearing is good for trails and connecting trails, 14/49 is my preferred gearing off road with this bike.

If it truly is stock, then the 3x3 air box mod, proper jetting with one of a few different jet kits (James Dean, prefered, then DynoJet), will start you off. Ride it, then decide what comes next for power.

The DRZ benefits from several reliability MOD’s.. The issues don’t affect all bikes in any year or model, but that’s the reason it’s so recommended, you just don’t know if your bike is one of them.

Look up Stator, starter gear, primary gear, counter balancer and counter shaft Loctite fixs.

Look up the free power MOD. For better charging.

Steering head bearing maintenance, and swing arm bearing and suspension maintenance. As the lube used from the OEM is crap, think, and little present.

Round over the back side of the shifter, to prevent case damage in a simply fall, and put some case guard covers on to further protect the thin magnesium cases.

Add radiator guards and a skid plate if going off road..

It's an older bike, consider serviceing the Cooling system, suspension and adding springs for your weight.

Service the brakes front and rear.

Check the wheel bearings

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The OEM Bars are steel and made of a unique Unobtainum material available only by the OEM, it looks and cuts like steel, but has the strength of an over ripe banana. :lol: first hard fall, they will bend. Replace with ProTaper SE bars in a bend of your choice, or spring for adapters and 1 1/8 bars for some increased strength, or add a new top triple clamp and forgo the adapters.

Consider hand guards if going off road.. they protect the hands, and help with protecting the levers and bars as well.

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Welcome;

Gearing is good for trails and connecting trails, 14/49 is my preferred gearing off road with this bike.

If it truly is stock, then the 3x3 air box mod, proper jetting with one of a few different jet kits (James Dean, prefered, then DynoJet), will start you off. Ride it, then decide what comes next for power.

The DRZ benefits from several reliability MOD’s.. The issues don’t affect all bikes in any year or model, but that’s the reason it’s so recommended, you just don’t know if your bike is one of them.

Look up Stator, starter gear, primary gear, counter balancer and counter shaft Loctite fixs.

Look up the free power MOD. For better charging.

Steering head bearing maintenance, and swing arm bearing and suspension maintenance.

Round over the back side of the shifter, to prevent case damage in a simply fall, and put some case guard covers on to further protect the thin magnesium cases.

Add radiator guards and a skid plate if going off road..

Thanks E, I've read a good amount of what you've had to say lately in this forum. I've got the case savers, rad guards, skid plate. I'm just wondering why its not giving me the torque feel that this gearing should provide. I'll be going down to lower gearing as it is mostly a street bike (will be saving the trail sprockets and chain for trail use though) so it's only going to get more boring, less powerful (though higher top end and less vibes at speed). I will probably do the 3x3 and jetting and E-carb and prob a big bore if I can get one at the right price eventually, though I expected more umphh just from the billion videos I've watched of these things.

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If it's down on power it could be most anything from a used bike...

From rings that were never seated and your loosing compression, to a worn bore, piston, rings... Clogged air cleaner, Valves not adjusted, carb dirty, never jetted correctly, no 3x3 mod and jetted correctly, and yes, it lacks 64cc's :lol: You can fix that and some of the pother possible issues noted above with a Cylinder works BB kit...

:)

Thanks E, I've read a good amount of what you've had to say lately in this forum. I've got the case savers, rad guards, skid plate. I'm just wondering why its not giving me the torque feel that this gearing should provide. I'll be going down to lower gearing as it is mostly a street bike (will be saving the trail sprockets and chain for trail use though) so it's only going to get more boring, less powerful (though higher top end and less vibes at speed). I will probably do the 3x3 and jetting and E-carb and prob a big bore if I can get one at the right price eventually, though I expected more umphh just from the billion videos I've watched of these things.

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A mate of mine had seriously lame E which turned out to be nothing more than just the foam air filter that was seriously over due a clean and re-oil.

Have you been over the basics yet?

I also remember reading that with CV carbs it's possible to have split/leaking diaphragm and that can cause weak response.:lol:

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I'm taking a trip to the mountains this weekend for some rock climbing/trail riding that I normally do in my Jeep. Threw some knobbies on the DRZ from my busted KDX and will give her hell. When I come back I'm pulling this bike apart and cleaning it up. Will definitely change out that air filter and clean up the carb.

Just read you sad story with the 434 BB kit and your valves. MAYBE if I don't use up all of my bonus this year paying off the remaining balance of my CC I might send off my motor to Eddie for a lot of awesomeness to happen to it. lol

And I gave up on Credit Cards about 6 months ago as I have found that I can't trust myself with them. I can't imagine what I'd do if I still had them in my wallet with upgrading this bike lol

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By the way, just found an 01 E carb for 200 bucks. How much more for all the adaptors and parts to make it work with the S?

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By the way, just found an 01 E carb for 200 bucks. How much more for all the adaptors and parts to make it work with the S?

Watch out on used carbs, read all the horror stories...make sure if it doesn't work you can get your money back,

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MAYBE if I don't use up all of my bonus this year paying off the remaining balance of my CC I might send off my motor to Eddie for a lot of awesomeness to happen to it. lol

This! That is if you can afford it, he has a great December deal on motor builds this month. http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1017328&highlight= Read post 127

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Watch out on used carbs, read all the horror stories...make sure if it doesn't work you can get your money back,

hmmm didn't think about that. good call.

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The OEM Bars are steel and made of a unique Unobtainum material available only by the OEM, it looks and cuts like steel, but has the strength of an over ripe banana. :lol: first hard fall, they will bend.

This. Mine bent when I slammed into a tree mid jump plus the stock bars look so...........stock. Put something sexier under your hands.

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This. Mine bent when I slammed into a tree mid jump plus the stock bars look so...........stock. Put something sexier under your hands.

mine came with a lovely set of bent Protapers...Waiting on my new one...taking way too damn long. If you looking at my shoulders and arms dead on when i'm riding it looks like I'm always turning right lmao

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If your going to the mountains I'd suggest keeping the stock carb, better gas mileage and less fussy to elevation changes.

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If your going to the mountains I'd suggest keeping the stock carb, better gas mileage and less fussy to elevation changes.

This was my original thought before I ever even bought the DRZ. K.I.S.S. :lol:

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if it's down on power it could be most anything from a used bike...

From rings that were never seated and your loosing compression, to a worn bore, piston, rings... Clogged air cleaner, valves not adjusted, carb dirty, never jetted correctly, no 3x3 mod and jetted correctly, and yes, it lacks 64cc's :lol: You can fix that and some of the pother possible issues noted above with a cylinder works bb kit...

:)

+ 1 ...

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