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Full Synthetic 10-40 Motor Oil

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Went to Auto Zone the other day looking for full synthetic 10-40 to use in the engine side. To my surprise the only brand of full syn 10-40 was Mobile 1 at $11 per quart. Since I change it each week that seems a bit expensive. I found blends of conventional/syn, but what I'm really looking for is full synthetic. Is anyone running full synthetic?

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Shell Rotella full synthetic gallon (5W-40 - blue container) is around $21 at Walmart.

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you can get a preferred membership with amsoil. cost $20 a year and you get dealer pricing on it. You will save that much on your first order over $100. Buy the oil in the bulk 1 and 2.5 gallon containers to keep your cost down.

for cost of the oil, it is expensive, but so is a complete rebuild on the bike. Cheap insurance!

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Mobil one in the 5 quart jug is about $26 at Walmart. That's 7 oil changes per jug, or about $3.70 per change.

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10-40 amsoil here changed at 5 hour intervals. Costs a bit more but your change interval is extended a couple of hours w/ full syn.

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So you guys run 5 - 40 even though honda says 10 - 40?

Either one is still a 40 weight oil when its hot. A lot of guys run Rotella or Delo which is a 15w40. Its only a 5w 10w or 15w when its cold, and unless you are riding and starting your bike at temps well below freezing a 10w or 15w is thin enough at startup to circulate to the top end.

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I have been using the Rotella 15W-40. I plan on switching to the Rotella T6 5W-40 when I am finished with my current jug of regular Rotella T though just to try it out.

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Shell Rotella full synthetic gallon (5W-40 - blue container) is around $21 at Walmart.

THIS ^^^^^^

So you guys run 5 - 40 even though honda says 10 - 40?

Yes its fine..

I run Rotella (dino) 15-40 in the trans and Rotella 5-40 (syn) in the motor.

Best way to go IMO....

Also FYI if your going to use automotive oil in your bike make sure it is NOT ENERGY CONSERVING! Diesel oils are generally not energy conserving thats why they are used.

You can find this out by looking at the back of the bottle in that printed round seal, make sure it does not say Energy Conserving in the center..if your going to use another type of oil.

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Yes its fine..

I run Rotella (dino) 15-40 in the trans and Rotella 5-40 (syn) in the motor.

Best way to go IMO....

I had shifting issues with the 15-40 in the trans. I use 5-40 on both sides with no issues.

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the 03 I just bought came w/ a partial bottle of Mobil1 10w40; I figured to run that til its gone and then either stay w/ Mobil1 or look at other full synths.

I saw one mention above changing it at 5 hours. Is that the normal oil change interval? Change filter each time?

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I saw one mention above changing it at 5 hours. Is that the normal oil change interval? Change filter each time?

If you aren't racing, 6-8 hour oil change intervals are fine. Change the filter every other oil change. I prefer OEM paper filters. The Rotella oils work well if you want the best oil for the value.

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im surprised nobody is running moly oil? its all ive ever ran in my motor. honda hp trans oil in the trans side.

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yes..

"Yes", that's all we get? A little disappointed in you. OK I will have to throw a little gas ont he fire: If you don't use (insert your oil here) you will blow your engine up in short order!

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"Yes", that's all we get? A little disappointed in you. OK I will have to throw a little gas ont he fire: If you don't use (insert your oil here) you will blow your engine up in short order!

LOL..:smirk: it just gets asked so much i need to save my reply in a desktop folder so i can copy/paste.

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Either one is still a 40 weight oil when its hot. A lot of guys run Rotella or Delo which is a 15w40. Its only a 5w 10w or 15w when its cold, and unless you are riding and starting your bike at temps well below freezing a 10w or 15w is thin enough at startup to circulate to the top end.

This isnt correct.

A 5w40 is a 5wt oil that protects as well as a 40wt when at operating temps.

The flow characteristics are measured at room temps.

A 10/40wt is a heavier oil obviously. So 10 flows slower at cold temps, but usually is good enough yada yada....protects like 40wt.

A straight wt. 40 is thicker again obviously and the cold flow is the concern for a gasoline engine that is going to be shut off and cooled and then restarted. And then run with very little warm up etc.

That scenario is why they invented the lighter weight oils that flow well and circulate a low temps but continue to protect as the temps rise.

The oils dont get thicker as they get hotter. They just maintain their ability to protect.

A straight 5wt would become almost useless at 195F in an engine. A straight 40 works, but youve gotta run pretty big oil clearances to make them live through the cold startup routine.

With all that said....

Ive been running 15/40 Conventional Rotella in both sides of my CRF for 120+ hours with zero problems. It gets changed every 5 hours.

I kind of like the way the trans worked better when I ran a 20/50wt conventional oil, but it was annoying having all kinds of crap in the garage. The clutch engagement was smoother and the lever had a more velvety feel to it, but the Rotella works fine. The only time I ever had an issue with the clutch was when I was on a stupid steep, loose hill and had to feather the clutch constantly for probably a full minute or more to get to the top. But even when the lever lost all the adjustment it still cooled off and was fine in the end.

Ive come to the conclusion that people are going to run the oil that they're comfortable running. Some guys need that $15 per quart level mentality. There's a guy that comes on here and runs that WalMart SuperTech stuff at $1.10 per quart and he's got 200 racing hours on his CRF...And he changes it every 10 hours "whether it needs it or not"

:smirk:

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If you aren't racing, 6-8 hour oil change intervals are fine. Change the filter every other oil change. I prefer OEM paper filters. The Rotella oils work well if you want the best oil for the value.

Ohhh, I'll be racing it alright.

It's just that I'm starting at square one in a lot of ways. I've been racing in the woods, on 2strks, forever. So between racing enduros, the occasional hare scramble, and play riding/training, I know when to change the oil in my 2 smoker.

I just bought my first thumper and am jumping into flat-track racing...I have ZERO experience with either. I have no idea how many hours get put on a bike at a local flat-track race. I'm thinking the change interval will be approx 5 hours but I guess we'll see. With the woods bikes, I changed the tranny oil before every race....but a "race" could be several hours worth. A flat-track "race" will probably amount to much less run-time!

Back to the OP? I'll probably be running 10w40, probably Rotella.

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