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what's the best mod/improvement you did to your RMZ

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First, i replaced the front springs to fit my weight, F.C. said the back was ok.

Second , my FMF 4.1 full system, quieter than stock and improved powerband that sings a little higher.

wish list: QTM front brake rotor, some kind of fuel controler.

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suspension and outlaw rear brake pedal. Probably the best stock bike I have ever ridden and definitley the best stock 450 I have ever ridden. I may put a new exhaust, triple clamps and get an EFI tuner.

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i've got a K7 model and am 6 foot and 115kg.

setting up the suspension to suit my weight, riding ability and bike usage. the correct spring weight and a suspension revalve are the best money you will ever spend on a bike, it makes them so much better.

i also fitted the "RC High" bend fat bars as i am tall and so prefer my bars nice and high.

i've ridden my bike for a few years with stock exhaust but i've just fitted a pro circuit slip-on to see if i can get a bit more over-rev out of it.

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hey mate,

i have a 2012,

i have put a full system pro circuit pipe on, best improvement

also a good one is a braded steel front brake line with an oversized disc

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fmf 4.1 ti, re-programmed and dyno tuned, ended up with 49 horse at the wheel, and found out the bike does 150 km/h with stock gearing...haha

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What is the reason behind extending the clutch actuator. What does it fix?

Some feel it lightens the clutch pull.I haven't done it...the clutch feels fine to me now,but after coming off of hydro clutches-it is a bit stiff. I just put a hinson clutch kit in and it doesn't feel different than stock. I got it for less clutch fade,but I only experienced light fade once since owning the bike. I ordered up a set of ride engineering 20mm clamps and I have a valving kit coming from smart performance for the suspension. I will post up a review once I get the items and do some testing. I am hoping to put the clamps on first and then do the revalve a couple weeks into January. Also, I twisted the right radiator pretty bad and got a mishimoto radiator.I was skeptical,but they are pretty decent and would recommend them if you are looking for cheap OEM replacement radiator.

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Some feel it lightens the clutch pull.I haven't done it...the clutch feels fine to me now,but after coming off of hydro clutches-it is a bit stiff. I just put a hinson clutch kit in and it doesn't feel different than stock. I got it for less clutch fade,but I only experienced light fade once since owning the bike. I ordered up a set of ride engineering 20mm clamps and I have a valving kit coming from smart performance for the suspension. I will post up a review once I get the items and do some testing. I am hoping to put the clamps on first and then do the revalve a couple weeks into January. Also, I twisted the right radiator pretty bad and got a mishimoto radiator.I was skeptical,but they are pretty decent and would recommend them if you are looking for cheap OEM replacement radiator.

love to hear your ride report on the clamps.

Get the actuator arm done and thank me later. It's much better.

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Suspension made the best difference for me. Then, the PIM2 with a map for my bike's setup.

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I hated riding my 09 before I lengthened the actuator. Never ending armpump after a few laps. Clutch pull is effortless now. I also installed a Tokyomods 10 map ECU to get rid of the obnoxious rev limiter. I'm going to work on a DIY suspension revalve this winter.

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Is there any actuator allready for sale, or just the modification?

Thanks!!!

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i will have to look into the actuator mod. but i really dont feel any problems with mine. i think it works great and im coming off a hydro on my honda

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If you don't like the actuator mod or feel the improvement, I'll buy you a new actuator.:bonk:

and the WC perches are wonderful as a compliment I might add.

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I'm having trouble getting my clutch actuator out. From what I've read, after removing the retaining bracket and cable, the actuator should come right out. Is this true, or do I need to pull the push rod out, as well?

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