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Motor HELP!

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:banghead:Can someone suggest a good motor shop or guy to take my 2002 WR250F to. I am completely frustrated by this bike! Pro-Action had it for a month and it is still extremely hard to start and even harder to keep running! I'm not a mechanic, just like to ride and know the the basics. I live just South of Zelienople, Pa., North of Pittsburgh. Thanks for any help.

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I live in Pittsburgh but i do all my own engine work (except head milling / cylinder replating) so i really don't know any reputable mechanics in the area. Stay away from dealerships is all i can tell you. That is why i do my own work, got taken by a dealership once, that was it.

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Post up a few details and a solution may be at hand.....

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Yeah Ronus that's good advice!! It's a lesson already learned in the past by me!

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The garage that just recently had it replaced the cams(spun gears on old ones) and adjusted ignition. They claim that it was running fine when it left, but got it home and not so much! I know that a lot of the free mods were done to it, but it runs worse with the plug taken out of the exhaust and the snorkle removed. I read on here about the hot start possibly causing problems, but as I stated, I'm in no way a mechanic, just a guy that likes to ride. I've had my brother and some friends try to adjust things, and no real luck, I think that I need someone with actual diagnostic skills on this.

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Sounds lean on the pilot circuit....prolly ran well at the warm shop...you took it home and try to start it in the cold garage? You put the exhaust restrictor in(aka less air), and it runs better than without(more air)...

ya might even go up 2 on the pilot.

Just guessin from what I read. Good Luck!

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Some detail like how many kicks it takes to start, and how you must keep it running would be helpful. Does it run better on choke? Does it run better at about half to full throttle? Sounds to me like you have a very lean pilot jet in there.

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Ok starting procedure a of now, shut off gas, lay bike down drain bowl, lift bike up turn on choke and kick,(kicking slowly till feel pressure bring kick starter back up then kick). If no start after a few kicks turn on gas for a few kicks then start the procedure over again. When bike fires comes on like at full throttle, turn on gas and let off of choke but not all the way or stall, hold choke about half way till warm let it out slowly, hopefully no stall. If bike stalls, will not start back up without choke on, and again with choke on when it fires it acts like it's at full throttle, let choke off slowly again, if bike does not stall feather throttle, it will then come alive, but run ruff and break-up some.

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Ok starting procedure a of now, shut off gas, lay bike down drain bowl, lift bike up turn on choke and kick,(kicking slowly till feel pressure bring kick starter back up then kick). If no start after a few kicks turn on gas for a few kicks then start the procedure over again. When bike fires comes on like at full throttle, turn on gas and let off of choke but not all the way or stall, hold choke about half way till warm let it out slowly, hopefully no stall. If bike stalls, will not start back up without choke on, and again with choke on when it fires it acts like it's at full throttle, let choke off slowly again, if bike does not stall feather throttle, it will then come alive, but run ruff and break-up some.

Well, there's your problem.

The fuel should be on at all times when starting or running. There's no reason to drain the bowl unless you are not going to be riding for a little while. If you do drain the bowl there's no need to lay the bike over, just shut off fuel and open the drain bolt at the bottom (fuel should start running out of the bottom most tube).

Fuel on, choke on, and kick just like you described.

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Sounds to me like a hot start problem. Did you reasonably explain your situation to the guys at pro-action? I can't imagine them turning a deaf ear to a paying customer.

When you pull on the hot start lever, does it move at least 1/4" toward the bars and does it return. When your surroundings are quiet and the hot start works correctly you should be able to hear the plunger in the carb. snap closed. It works just like the throttle slide, as far as the spring goes.

If it just needs lubed, follow the cable to the carb and unscrew it. Lube, then reinstall. If it is seized and will not come out, you need a mechanic, Pro-Action should be able to help with this.

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Well, there's your problem.

The fuel should be on at all times when starting or running. There's no reason to drain the bowl unless you are not going to be riding for a little while. If you do drain the bowl there's no need to lay the bike over, just shut off fuel and open the drain bolt at the bottom (fuel should start running out of the bottom most tube).

Fuel on, choke on, and kick just like you described.

What he said :lol:

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There is a reason that I shut the fuel off, the bike floods if I don't. Initially I did try to start the bike with fuel on, choke on, and kick, bike flooded, after a lot of time and sweat, the procedure that I mentioned is the only way that we found to get it to start.

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Then you should check the float height and make sure the float needle and seat are clean. Having your float height or valve stuck open would both cause rough running and poor starting. So will having the fuel shut off.

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Are you giving the throttle a pump before/during the kick? If so, don't. Fuel on, choke on...no throttle. Kick it. What happens?

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I don't touch the throttle during start, and I say flooding due the fact that carb is overly full of fuel. With the fuel on you can kick all day long and you won't start this bike as is.

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