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My son wanted a Magura Hydrualic Clutch system installed on his YZ300. When doing so, I read the instructions prior to the install and after, everything seemed ok.

We went riding and the clutch is SMOKED! The Magura wouldn't allow the clutch pack to disengage fully. We ended up pushing his bike back to the truck because it wouldn't move when in gear.

Installed NEW OEM Complete clutch(including springs) yesterday. Modified the slave cylinder position by fabricating a different spacer/bushing so the slave cylinder would sit lower to the case in order to allow more free-play so the clutch can disengage when hot.

Well, now it doesn't engage fully and the bike will take off when put into gear.

any suggestions on how to fix this other than remove it completly?

Thx in advance

older man needs help! :lol:

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My son wanted a Magura Hydrualic Clutch system installed on his YZ300. When doing so, I read the instructions prior to the install and after, everything seemed ok.

We went riding and the clutch is SMOKED! The Magura wouldn't allow the clutch pack to disengage fully. We ended up pushing his bike back to the truck because it wouldn't move when in gear.

Installed NEW OEM Complete clutch(including springs) yesterday. Modified the slave cylinder position by fabricating a different spacer/bushing so the slave cylinder would sit lower to the case in order to allow more free-play so the clutch can disengage when hot.

Well, now it doesn't engage fully and the bike will take off when put into gear.

any suggestions on how to fix this other than remove it completly?

Thx in advance

older man needs help! :lol:

I had the same basic problem with a cable, I could never get it to adjust correctly. I wound up modifying the arm on the inside to give it a slightly longer "throw".

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Thats interesting ,is that the kit for the yz 250? . mine was for a rmz 450 i extended the rod 10mm and used a spacer where it fits in the case,works fine ..

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is that the kit for the yz 250?

Yes,...99-11 YZ250 0120493-20 internal.

We looked at possibly modifying the actuator arm by lengthening it (have done this on another YZ w/ a cable yrs ago) but would like to have this system work w/o going into a bunch of mods to make it work. Shouldn't have to really.

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that's true , you shouldn't have to do any mods if it for the actual bike, you tried giving the dealer a call?

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Not yet. I've been reading over the instructions to see if I had missed something. As of now, I believe I have installed it correctly, with the exception of the mod we did.

Next step as aled asked, call Magura to get a resolution to this issue

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Talked to a Magura Technical Technician yesterday about our problem (very pleasant and helpful)...we spent 15-20 minutes on the ph on what could be causing the problem. He gave me his extension # and to call him anytime.

I haven't figured this out yet and I won't let it beat me neither lol.

I'll post my findings when we get this figured out

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perhaps theres nothing wrong with the magura clutch, you said you installed a new set of pads/plates, perhaps the push rod got warped and is out of spec, it may have worked just fine with the old set of pads/ but perhaps now the the tolerances are to tight with a new set clutch pads/plates (ie push rod is to short to fully disengage the pack) id also check the pivot lever end on the stator side, if this is worn too much the clutch won't fully disengage especially with a new pack, id also double check make sure these no missing washers on the "bearing" assembly at the end of the pushrod, good luck:thumbsup:

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perhaps theres nothing wrong with the magura clutch, you said you installed a new set of pads/plates, perhaps the push rod got warped and is out of spec, it may have worked just fine with the old set of pads/ but perhaps now the the tolerances are to tight with a new set clutch pads/plates (ie push rod is to short to fully disengage the pack) id also check the pivot lever end on the stator side, if this is worn too much the clutch won't fully disengage especially with a new pack, id also double check make sure these no missing washers on the "bearing" assembly at the end of the pushrod, good luck:thumbsup:

I instaled new fibers, steel disks and springs because after installing the hydraulic clutch, the clutch was smoked. The steel disks were still flat, no warpage.

I removed the push rod and looked at it late yesterday. It has what looks to be wear on the end by the lever (Fly wheel side) that appears to be a rotating type of wear. I know that it wasn't machined like that. The lever looks ok. The manual doesn't give a specific length so I didn't know what the wear tolerances were. So I odered a new push rod. The pressure plate however does lift off the clutch pack about a 3/16" (eye balled) with the existing rod. The "bearing" looks fine, intact.

Is the push rod a "normal" wear item? If not, why is there wear on the end?

Thanks

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@stroker101 - I had the same problems on a CR250. I found the travel of the Magura "slave" (cable end) was not sufficient. I played with spacers endlessly and ended up with an imperfect compromise between dragging and not fully engaging.

I would suggest you measure the travel of the Magura slave versus your OEM cable and I suspect you'll see a big difference.

This may not be your exact problem but it sounds like it might be.

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I instaled new fibers, steel disks and springs because after installing the hydraulic clutch, the clutch was smoked. The steel disks were still flat, no warpage.

I removed the push rod and looked at it late yesterday. It has what looks to be wear on the end by the lever (Fly wheel side) that appears to be a rotating type of wear. I know that it wasn't machined like that. The lever looks ok. The manual doesn't give a specific length so I didn't know what the wear tolerances were. So I odered a new push rod. The pressure plate however does lift off the clutch pack about a 3/16" (eye balled) with the existing rod. The "bearing" looks fine, intact.

Is the push rod a "normal" wear item? If not, why is there wear on the end?

Thanks

hmmmm thats interesting, ic what your saying now/ i supposed it depends on the age of the bike, typically the older bikes will experience push tube warping and the lever end wear, as for the spec i believe the pivot lever is required to sit a 9 oclock, ifs its say at 10 then its out of spec, as 38special suggested if the travels aren't the same i wonder if its possible to modify the lever end on the stator side to even things out ie shorten the pivot arm, allowing for greater rotational travel of pivot arm, however this will make it slightly harder to pull, but i suspect for a hydralic setup it may feel no different/ this is alot of work though as it would require pulling off the flywheel+ modifications, but may be the best option to attain the results your looking for

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Yeah, this 2009 doesn't have many hours on it. My son has been in Afganistan for most of 2 yrs (back home, then back there). The clutch basket doesn't have any groves in it and the inner hub has very faint marks from the steel plates.

The wear on the push rod seems abnormal to me. This problem (smoked clutch) started after the hydraulic clutch was installed and the 295cc kit. The bike hooked up before, no issue's. I wonder if the stock clutch and springs can handle the increase in power?

We'll see how things go when the new push rod comes in.

Thanks

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@stroker101 - I had the same problems on a CR250. I found the travel of the Magura "slave" (cable end) was not sufficient. I played with spacers endlessly and ended up with an imperfect compromise between dragging and not fully engaging.

I would suggest you measure the travel of the Magura slave versus your OEM cable and I suspect you'll see a big difference.

This may not be your exact problem but it sounds like it might be.

Thanks for the intell 38Special. We will look into it more when the new push rod comes in. We did fabricate different bushings/spacers to adjust the free play, but was unsuccessful.

Thanks

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So you said that the pressure plate is moving about 3/16ths or so and the cluch is not releasing and the bike jumps when put into gear. That sounds like more than enough travel to release. Im wondering if you possibly stacked the clutch pack wrong? What are you running for tranny oil did you presoak the discs before install?

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Clutch plates installed correctly (starting with a fiber then steel and so forth), fibers soaked in 15w-40 oil (Rotella) for 20 or so minutes. Running the same oil as pre-soak.

Never an issue before. Waiting on new push rod so we can touble shoot to root cause.

The 3/16" is an eye balled measurement, not accurate. Will do more when part arrives.

Thanks

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I don't have experience with the Magura setups but I do know that on street bikes with hydraulic clutches the symptoms you described can be caused by the system not be completely bled.

Does the Magura setup come pre-bled? Perhaps it has some air in it?

In my experience, hydraulic clutches are a bitch to bleed and it's basically impossible without some type of vacuum assist bleeding device.

The marks you describe on the inner hub might be more than you think. On my YZ125 the notching on the inner hub made the clutch slip. Luckily, the hub itself is not that expensive from Yamaha.

I feel that what the poster above said about the travel of the slave cylinder is going to be the root here. If it does not pull as far as the stock cable does you are chasing your tail.

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