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high output stator? custom rewind?

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I have a rickystator in my 250 but it really doesn't put out enough juice... I have heated grips and jacket. I put LED turns/tail and 35w HID headlight... put a fancy evo lithium battery in too...

I can't even run the heated grips with the headlight on. the battery gets drained and the headlight turns off. I have resorted to putting a regular 35w incandescent bulb in and replacing the battery with a capacitor until it gets warm again. sucks with a dim headlight though, but without my heated gear I lose feeling in my hands and wear out really fast

has anyone had luck getting lots of juice on a custom rewind?

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what is the stator wound to ouput? and have you put a meter on it to see if its outputing near its spec?

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Our stator is rated at 150 watts, of course this is not at idle. This is the max you can get from this stator. Sounds like you would be better off with a stator that has less max output but better low RPM performance. Give us a call and we can help.

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okay thanks.

it puts out lots of juice revved up, but when cruising low rpm or idle it drains the battery down under 10v

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for one, why do you need a heated jacket and heated grips on an XR250?

get a GS1200 and you'll get a heated seat, too

Rickey claims 2x100W

ignition + 35W + turn signals + taillight/brakelight + heated grips guestimated 25W <200W

the battery is your buffer to store the 'juce' you do not use at high RPM and let you have it back at low RPM, when you use more than alternator produces

could it be you draw all your energy from one circuit and do not use the other at all or maybe just for your ignition?

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for one, why do you need a heated jacket and heated grips on an XR250?

get a GS1200 and you'll get a heated seat, too

Rickey claims 2x100W

ignition + 35W + turn signals + taillight/brakelight + heated grips guestimated 25W <200W

the battery is your buffer to store the 'juce' you do not use at high RPM and let you have it back at low RPM, when you use more than alternator produces

could it be you draw all your energy from one circuit and do not use the other at all or maybe just for your ignition?

The ignition has its own "source coil" and does not consume the power from the lighting coil. Just to be clear we advertise the output @ 150 watts.

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The ignition has its own "source coil" and does not consume the power from the lighting coil. Just to be clear we advertise the output @ 150 watts.

I stand corrected about ignition consumption

my excuse, I'll never understand electricktrick, am too 'tupid :lol:

did I mistake the 200W with Moose? Baja? whatever

still:

headlight 35W + 4W? LED turn signals + 5/21W taillight/brakelight + heated grips guestimated 25W = 85W<150W

in conjunction with a battery everything should work fine

does on my 650 with a RickyStator, no, no heated grips, heated gloves

and I tried and plugged in the jacket, too, just to see if it works, it does!

but all lights work off of only one circuit, the 2nd I used for the aux. socket only

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for one, why do you need a heated jacket and heated grips on an XR250?

get a GS1200 and you'll get a heated seat, too

we have seasons in Washington...

and I don't want a BMW.

IMG_1293.JPG

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we have seasons in Washington...

and I don't want a BMW.

hear me giggle?

I ride the 250 with handlebar mits and I have a down jacket under the 'stich

don't want to have to mess with electrics

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What is total wattage you are drawing from the battery?

ah dang you guys are closed for the weekend.

35w headlight

30w or so grips

55w jacket

5w or less tail and turn signals

the jacket I can live without. I need the grips.

If I fall off the plug on the jacket unplugs... (shrug)

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hear me giggle?

I ride the 250 with handlebar mits and I have a down jacket under the 'stich

don't want to have to mess with electrics

You could probably ride in a t shirt all year in Georgia haha

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ah dang you guys are closed for the weekend.

35w headlight

30w or so grips

55w jacket

5w or less tail and turn signals

the jacket I can live without. I need the grips.

If I fall off the plug on the jacket unplugs... (shrug)

It is important to say you are running HID... Amps upon firing about triple I believe but once warm drop down 3-4a range.

We have had trouble also...

1 Ricky rewind

Trail tech Race HID light

Trail tech 3700 battery

and

1 Ricky aftermarket stator

Trail tech extreme HID light

Baja designs battery

Lights will fire but after short period of time will flicker(built in re-light) when rpms drop... say a stop light. Not sure why but I am allergic to electricity so very interested in RICKY STATORS reply also.

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You could probably ride in a t shirt all year in Georgia haha

I don't think so

we may not have much snow but it gets quite chilly in the mountains here

how is this for starters

IMG_6663.jpg

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Ricky,

What is the best way to test my stator to see what it puts out?

I would like to know too?

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I think you'd need a meter that can show you amps.

Or get a bunch of 15w bulbs and see how many it can handle :bonk:

You would need two meters: a high current ammeter and a voltmeter. Then some kind of load. Two 100W bulbs in parallel would probably do. Running the bike at various engine speeds you could read voltage and current then calculate power output at each of those engine speeds.

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Okay, just got an HID and now I'm in the same trouble. I have a stock alternator though.

35w HID, turn signals, and 5/21w tail are all I'm running. I have a 1800mah battery. The HID drains the battery when I'm below about 5,000 rpm. Once the battery gets drained past a certain point, the HID will flicker and die. So even when I'm up to speed and cruising, the battery is draining. I have to turn it off and let the battery recharge to use the HID again.

How much does the stock alternator put out?

Ricky, can you cure my problem?

Or should I just convert to LED tail and turns to save power?

120103_0001.jpg

sure looks good when the battery is charged.

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