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Possibly dumb question- carb

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Hi all

I have a 2006 drz400s. Jetted, slip on pipe, but otherwise basically stock motor. I did have smog stuff removed, and petcock changed to a gravity fed, removed the vac actuated stock one.

I managed NOT to consider that when I changed the petcock it meant after rides I'd need to shut the fuel off, so managed to screw up the seals and float, and flood the engine and air box with fuel when the bowl flooded while sitting. Lesson learned.

I am not needing more power (don't laugh), I really just want reliability. Do I rebuild the stock carb or do I switch to the new carb kit that TT sells? My only concern is reliability.

The shop fixing my bike now, dealing with getting the gas out of everything internally, etc, said that the stock carb is crap and he'd change it out.

Thank you for advice.

Hal

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Unfortunately the stock carb is no better than a paper weight . If set up well it will run fine , but will never be capable of giving the motor the oomph it needs . What sort of carb has no external overflow , and when it does overflow , it then floods the motor with fuel and contaminates the oil ? If you can afford it the FCR/MX will make your bike run a hell of a lot better , but it needs setting up once it is in , and this can be a pain in the arse . But once set up for your bike you will love it . If you do not choose to get it then I would seriously consider going back to a vacuum operated fuel tap , at least this way you wont forget to turn off the fuel , greg

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i call bullshit:

the float needle may be worn, or the float level set incorrectly, and the gas left 'on'.

i've flipped mine in a creeks, tossed it down hills, pushed limbs through fuel lines, and the carb deserves no blame. zero.

this was just user error. enjoy the ride, and pocket the cash.

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Unfortunately the stock carb is no better than a paper weight . If set up well it will run fine , but will never be capable of giving the motor the oomph it needs . What sort of carb has no external overflow , and when it does overflow , it then floods the motor with fuel and contaminates the oil ? If you can afford it the FCR/MX will make your bike run a hell of a lot better , but it needs setting up once it is in , and this can be a pain in the arse . But once set up for your bike you will love it . If you do not choose to get it then I would seriously consider going back to a vacuum operated fuel tap , at least this way you wont forget to turn off the fuel , greg

+1..There is no contest between the mikuni BSR and an FCRMX ...

When you weigh up the pro's and con's the Fcr is the only way to go...

You say that you are not looking for extra power, but it is nice to have improved throttle response and a couple more hp ..

IMO..The cost of rebuilding the mikuni would be better directed towards a Keihin....

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There is nothing at all wrong with the stock Mikuni BSR36 carb. If you are looking for reliability, that is the way to go. I have and use both BSR and FCR. Most of the time I like the BSR. If you have flooding problems - fix it. The fuel valve "O" ring is about $.50. I think the size is 1.5mm X 5mm but you can search and confirm that. A shop that says the stock carb is crap is not a shop that I would deal with. Performance? yes go FCR. Reliability? the stock carb is fine.

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Reliability?.Yes ,the BSR is reliable..Yes ,the Fcr is as well... I have ran Fcr's on several bikes and have never had a issue..

The only other positive aspects I can see with a BSR is that they are more tolerant to altitude/climate change ,

perhaps better fuel economy,

and that you already own one....:lol:

Edited by CraigoDRZ400sm

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The shop fixing my bike now, dealing with getting the gas out of everything internally, etc, said that the stock carb is crap and he'd change it out.

And i bet he just happened to have one he would sell you that is not CRAP.. Right? :lol:

The Mikuni BSR36 is a good carb for a stock DRZ, riding as a get around bike... Needs a bit of tuning to make it respond how it should (came lean from the Factory)

But other then that, it works fine.

Yes, remove the vac operated petcock and you have to remember to turn off the manual one.. No matter the condition of the carb, leave the fuel on for extended periods, and it will over fill the float bowl and leak elsewhere.

If the needle and seat are leaking, replace the seat o ring, and then needle and seat.. one, or all three will fix that issue...

Add a James Dean Jetting kit, open the air box to 3x3 inches, and ride on... :)

If the service shop was stating the carb is crap because of it's physical condition, that's another story. If it's actually damaged and in need of replacement (and that would not happen from the fuel leaking past the needle, damaged like hit with a hammer, broken fuel screw tip, left out in a salt mine to corrode), then that’s a little different, you can buy good used BSR36 carbs all day for $50 or get a FCR39MX kit for a bunch more...and with it better performance same reliability.

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FWIW, there's probably nothing much wrong with your current carb. Yes, if it needed an expensive rebuild I'd consider pocketing the performance gain from the FCR rather than rebuilding it.

BUT - I can't see how leaving the fuel on and flooding the engine would have actually damaged the carb. Get the spark plug out, and clear the cylinder of fuel, change the oil if it smells of fuel and I'll bet she runs just fine, for minimal outlay. This happened to me a few times before I got in the habit of turning off the fuel (no vac petcock on my safari tank) and no lasting harm was done.

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How much money do you want to spend? You can fix your stock carb for under a hundred bucks yourself and that includes a new JD jet kit(I would not let the dealer do any of this work). Or, you can spend $500 on a new FCR. The BSR jetted w/3x3 mod is fine for me and my budget/riding style.

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Funny, my first thought when shop said I should swap carb was that I bet he's just happens to have one he could sell me... Not the case, and in fact he suggested if TTs was too costly to check eBay, as that is where he found his at discount when he converted his.

If I were doing the work myself, and I probably should be as I'm not too bad with repairs, I would have just done the rebuild and been fine. Problem is that I'm def not a pro, and the bike has stranded me 3 times, thankfully each time about 3-5 miles from home, and I just could not figure out what the heck was wrong... Would start fine, get me on road, then unexplanibly die while under power. Found exact symptom from a few of your posts on TT, and decided I needed to bite bullet and just get the whole damn bike tuned and adjusted at same time. HAte it, hate not learning in process, but with work, kids, and everything else, I really just want to ride these days when a free minute hits... And damn I'm tired of begging rides home after it dies. Missed out on a great coast ride from Stinson beach to Oregon, total drag, and I can't imagine *** I'd do if it happened at bottom of gourge or middle if nv desert if it happened there... So, bit the bullet. Of course, first thing I hear is, spend 599.00 and she'll be good as new. I called bullshit too.

Anyway, I think much as I believe new carb is probably better performance, I'm leaning toward cheaper fix. I sure appreciate the input guys.

Hal

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Hey, at least carb work is not hard, it just takes a little time and patience. Most of us are forced in to doing things ourselves because we don't have the luxury of a competent and reasonable mechanic nearby.

Take a look at this thread, it is a step by step on fixing the BSR:

http://www.off-road.com/atv/tech/atv-tech-basic-carburetor-cleanup-52101.html

Once apart I would soak it(metal parts only) in a quality carb cleaner. Hands down the best one I have found is the H7 degreaser. It does not harm plastic or rubber(even so I try & keep that stuff away from any cleaner) and does an amazing job of cleaning carbs when soaked overnight. It's a small company and I am not sure if they are nationwide, but it's worth a shot. I get it by the case...4 gal at a time.

http://www.maintenanceproductsinc.com/Sealants-Lubricants-Paints-Cleaners-&--Degreasers-H7--INDUSTRIAL-CLEANER/c534_203_853/index.html

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If you ride at basically the same altitude all the time and are good with a wrench, find a used Keihin and follow the jetting recomendations on this site. If you have lots of cash call Sudco and order a bolt on replacement. If you like to ride in desert and want to climb to 10,000 feet without re-jetting, stay with the BSR 36. I have a WR450 and a DRZ400 and each has its advantages. Putting the Keihin carb on your DRZ is NOT going to make it run like a WR. Rebuilding the BSR 36 amounts to $20 worth of O-rings and a new float needle and seat for another $50, plus labor of course. If you replace just the float needle with a Keihin K1 you'll save about $25 and it will stop your carb flooding. You can rebuild the vacuum petcock or just learn to shut the manual petcock off but if your float is adjusted correctly it shouldn't be an issue leaving it on for stops along the trail. The needle is available at: http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/FLOAT_NEEDLE_SUZUKI_DR-Z400S__P17122.cfm

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i like the stock carb with a jet kit. i can ride from 50 degrees to 90 degrees with no jetting changes, it starts and idles within 10 seconds with no choke unless its really cold.

to your dealer: I've never, ever even one time seen a carb so bad that it needed to be replaced unless there was actual physical damage to it or a manufacturing flaw.if the the bike as working and it just flooded out then do what everyone here says and get the gas out of it, fix the leaks in the carb and go ride. if this is a part time crusing bike for you that $600 is much better spent on other things.

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Bike back. Starts and seems to run fine. Carb rebuild, clean, flush fuel out of oil, plug... 125 bux + fluids. Will see how it goes. Excited for first ride in weeks!

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That's not bad. A local dealer wanted almost that much just to mount & balance a set of tires.....no thank you.

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Bike back. Starts and seems to run fine. Carb rebuild, clean, flush fuel out of oil, plug... 125 bux + fluids. Will see how it goes. Excited for first ride in weeks!

I hope it goes well for you and try to get into the habit of turning your fuel off at the petcock....:bonk:

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