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Theft incident - help needed with steering lock

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Hi all,

Got home today to find my 2009 SMR510 parked in my neighbours car park in my building.

Some one has 1. smashed out the ignition barrel and been able to turn the bike on (I tried, it works), and 2. smashed out the steering column lock.

The steering column lock is in perfect nick externally, so by the looks of things, a hard enough wrench on the bars will snap it internally. Let that be a warning to all!

I know they have had it running, and Im hoping it hasnt been taken out for a ride. Hasnt been dropped.

Question: easy enough to replace the key barrel, but how on earth do I get the steering lock out to replace that?

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Sorry to read about your attempted theft but you were close to losing it completely, sounds like the scum were seen and ran off or coming back for it later. They know you have one now so I would keep it at a mates house for a while just in case they do come back.

I would forget about the steering lock as they are totally useless. Nice wide handle bars provide too much leverage and unfortunately you have seen the result 1st hand!

The most sure way to keep youir bike is to use big chains and a ground anchour. Also attach a wire from the coil to earth like a permanent kill button where only you know where, this way anyone would think it's wrong to disconnect a wire to make it work and which one is it :bonk:

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Thanks for the reply Ricky.

How would I configure that wire? From the positive wire on the coil to earth as a short? Then switch it open to run the bike?

Also, looks like ill have to pull the front end apart to get the end of the stem lock out. Its rattling around in there and occasionally jams the steering.

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If the key cylinder fell inside the steering head then you have your answer... And that is still the best way as if one of the tumbler tabs fell out that could also jamb up the steering..

If not the other way is to screw a slide hammer(dent puller )into the key opening and one or two wacks and she should be out..

But I repeat the safest and best way is to pull it apart.. great time to grease them steering head bearings up too.. Chow, Carl

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Thanks for the reply Ricky.

How would I configure that wire? From the positive wire on the coil to earth as a short? Then switch it open to run the bike?

Also, looks like ill have to pull the front end apart to get the end of the stem lock out. Its rattling around in there and occasionally jams the steering.

Yes the kill wire is short the coil so it requires a physical disconnect to make it run, fit a bullet connector somewhere towards the rear of the bike make sure the insulated end is on the coil side so it wont ground out when riding. :bonk:

Your is steering is very usefull so make sure it does not jam!! seal the hole up with some silicone sealant.

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Thanks for the help guys.

I think I might try and pull the front triple apart tomorrow to get the schrapnel out of the stem.

I havnt done this before, but am mechanically able.

Without having the bike in front of me, Im thinking I just remove the top clamp, and the main nut on the stem. Which should allow me to drop the forks/wheel assembly down and clear out the stem.

Is my thinking correct or is it more complicated than that?

Also, can anyone offer tips on re-assembly.. greasing bearings, torque on main nut, alignment....?

BTW, I got a new ignition key assembly for $85.

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Thanks for the help guys.

Also, can anyone offer tips on re-assembly.. greasing bearings, torque on main nut, alignment....?

BTW, I got a new ignition key assembly for $85.

Hi , yes you can just undo the top clamps ( on forks) , the centre nut, and then it should all side out,

make sure your bike is VERY well supported as it can be a wriggle to get it all back in line after..,

grease the upper and lower bearings,

the top just "sits" in the top of the headstock tube of the frame. the lower is a shrink fit on the lower part of the fork " triple" clamp,

the lower one is often a bit dry , as any spilt fuel , will be fed through the "lock-slot" in the tube , and then flush-out the lower bearing,

a spray of WD40 will help shift any crud or light rust before you re-pack with grease.

on reassembly,

slide pivot pin ( steering) back into headstock, then support the lower end of forks (wheel end), tap on the top clamp,

then fit and tighten the BIG centre nut, ( not TOO tight of you'll pinch the bearings)

when ALL of this is done you can nip-up the fork clamp screws on the upper clamp back through top clamps,

I find it best to remove the handlebars ( and headlight / instruments) for better access to the BIG nut, but it all depends on you and the tools available,

$85 sounds fair,

Charlie

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Thanks for the help guys, I fixed everything today.

Dropping the front end off was pretty straight forward. The bearings were all good.

Picture below shows the damage that the stem lock caused when it sheared off. The notch, and the broken end of the lock were catching on eachother, which was what caused the steering to jam occasionally.

http://s1012.photobucket.com/albums/af249/timbo_lives/Husky%20SMR%20510/

None the less, I filed back the damage to remove/minimise any stress concentrations, then removed the broken end of the stem lock.

Let this be a warning to all, dont rely solely on the stem lock!

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A good Kryptonite chain tied to a ground anchor will deter most thieves- even a good disc lock with alarm beats a stem lock.

-Dave

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even a good disc lock with alarm beats a stem lock.

-Dave

IMHO that's the best method. Not EZ to foil. Put them on both ends so they have to carry the bike. Not real loud but work.

Fn-Ha9rapoilZV-R0lPzezl_c7Bjf0NzsdZSetQUGp93bMbEjs-14DRlqzlRXKE1-HagUWGjEAvMy9AZFXcOLI-T__WBCmBid86FiVXBdbvJKeLNgRpp0CGBBcIXspnMb04kBDWTDeE2tNaOeLwMv04d0jA48pfVDhWlNu-Ry45YIXWN-h87DiiFTHzNBs45pr-U4y_X5ZkXnxMJJeTasH2XhZMtduhigw557DLAq1QK7lWpd4YYqEZQ0vD0XecWDP3NdbwFfQb8vOhvd67Q1zZYYM4YB-mn23wuA5u3i4nvfCi_EHsM0KFUjYAbRpBeqzBBcSxTKU-yTGxl0QhZOO3A4bKewyHO

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Sorry to hear this happened to you and very glad they didn't get your bike. The kill wire- while it certainly won't hurt- is somewhat superfluous in that most bikes are literally and simply carried off (loaded into a truck and off it goes.) I'm in the camp that feels that if you make it harder they'll move on to an easier target, which is why I use the ground anchor and chain/cable method. If you're in a relatively high crime area be sure to get a "frost proof" chain (i.e. regular chains can be hit w/ a shot of freon to make 'em ultra brittle and then they whack it w/ a shorty sledge and the links just shatter.) I also keep mine covered up when not in use...that way they can't readily tell if it's an attractive target (and get a generic cover- not the bright red Husky one. :bonk: )

I also use a Xena alarm lock. Keep in mind that some are great and some are grossly unreliable. Proper sizing and placement is crucial, but they're still temperamental (I've had three and have talked to Xena on numerous occassions...the modules are just hit or miss.) Still, I do recommend them.

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