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98 KX250 Question and Help!

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Okay I just got a 1998 KX250 that I have to rebuild, but I have a few question about it to be sure of what i need. I know that I am gonna need a cylinder, cause replating or reboring is out of the question cause of money, but when i press the clutch while its in gear and try to roll it its like the clutch isnt releasing, are kx's just like that or whille i need to get a new clutch or something? It would be great if anyone had a cylinder that was able to build the compression to run that they could sell to me for cheap, cheapest i can find is 180 and thats new, i can get a piston kit for standard bore for 100 though. I am just trying to get it in running condition for now later ill buy better aftermarket parts and upgrade.

Edited by JohnstonOctober

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Okay I just got a 1998 KX250 that I have to rebuild, but I have a few question about it to be sure of what i need. I know that I am gonna need a cylinder and piston kit, cause replating or reboring is out of the question cause of money, but when i press the clutch while its in gear and try to roll it its like the clutch isnt releasing, are kx's just like that or whille i need to get a new clutch or something? It would be great if anyone had a cylinder that was able to build the compression to run that they could sell to me for cheap, cheapest i can find is 180 and thats new, i can get a piston kit for standard bore for 100 though. I am just trying to get it in running condition for now later ill buy better aftermarket parts and upgrade.

Jason,

lets approach this one question at a time. Why do you need a cylinder, exactly?

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where are you getting a new cylinder for 180? are you sure its new? you'll be replating that one after you buy it if its used

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cylinder without power valve from the tt store is 183 i need it cause it cost way to damn much to replate and reboring is just a hassle cause of new piston and what not. my piston has a while left on it so i need a standard bore cylinder.

Back to the question on the clutch?

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the clutch basket might just be grooved out. look at the how to section for what to do. you basically just file it back flat and sand it smooth

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A quick check of Ebay brought up a few...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-Kawasaki-KX250-KX-250-125-cylinder-jug-/120825954322?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1c21c9c012#ht_500wt_950

Since you seem reticent to identify what's wrong with the current cylinder this is the cheapest example I can find of what you're trying to do.

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It's common to feel drag with the engine off, trans in gear, clutch disengaged, and you move the rear wheel. You have a wet clutch, which means there is oil between every disc in the clutch pack. The fact that the plates do not separate very far and the oil between them will cause small amounts of friction and create the drag you feel. Certainly there could be other problems causing this, but some drag is normal.

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okay well the reason i need a new cylinder is cause this one is all scored and gashed up, not sure why like i said i just got the bike recently, so i am looking for a new or barely used cylinder to last. i dont have 200 dollars to replate. its just in bad shape it will not get enough compression to start the bike. the guy didnt know what was wrong so he gave it to me for cheap i didnt figure it would be this much trouble but i wanna get it running so ill have something to ride.

but about the clutch i guess ill have to file it down like you said cause when i press the clutch and try to roll it the wheel doesn't even spin like i said its like i am not even pressing the clutch.

but thanks for the help everyone

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Taking the side cover off and pulling in the clutch might *might* reveal the issue. Sometimes engines that have not been run in a while will drag their clutch. You might also check the adjustment at the lever and engine case.

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alright once i get a little time i will take it off and take a look im sure the cables are adjusted fine, the idiot i got the bike from said he had rebuilt the bike 2 months ago, and drove it 2 weeks of the sale date, people these days... Just cant trust em

but thanks for the help everyone

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cylinder without power valve from the tt store is 183 i need it cause it cost way to damn much to replate and reboring is just a hassle cause of new piston and what not. my piston has a while left on it so i need a standard bore cylinder.

Back to the question on the clutch?

cylinder from TT is $405 i think your looking at just the head for $186.

replating is obviously going to be cheaper than a brand new cylinder, why would anyone bother repairing them if it was cheaper for a new one?

you will have to find a used one in good shape, which is hard to tell by looking a pictures, you are better off just saving up and repairing the one you have.

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i think i just noticed that lol but ill see if i replate it

If i get it replated will they also replate the power valve?

Edited by JohnstonOctober

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It is not common practice to re-coat a power valve. I would assume it just needs cleaned, lubed, and then reinstalled in the re-coated cylinder.

If you buy the piston first and send it with your cylinder, they will hone the cylinder to fit the piston and it will be better than new. Call a plating company like U.S. Chrome and they will be able to answer all your questions first hand.

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okay well i took the cylinder all the way off and the piston and hoped for the best but got the worst, the crank is bad i can pull the rod up and down a good 1/4 - 1/2 inch. i think ima junk it i really dont have money for this i already got a brand new piston coming, need to replate the cylinder 180 at powerseal, and now ill need a bottom rebuidl kit which cost what like 300-400, damn things a money pit

i found a kit for 180 with gaskets and crank and rod, so i guess it isnt so expensive, now i just need to know how to get the old out for the new to be in, i am sure ill need a manual or will i. is it too complicated to split the crankcase, or will i need a book.

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Look up in the FAQ sticky above. I did a case splitting thread with lots of pics and also a reassy thread too.

Ed

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would it be easier to sleeve my kx250 cylinder or just replate, i can get it bored to fit a sleeve for like $20 and get a sleeve for it for like 80 on ebay would make it easier in the end also, but even if i decide to do that could i heat the cylinder up in the oven and freeze the sleeve to just slip it in the cylinder or would that crack it... and i need a link to splitting the case i cant find it.

i see a cylinder sleeve tut here http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=832854 but i wanna be 100% sure ti will work before i buy one

how do i get the big bolt out that goes through the rear swing arms and the back of the crankcase i have tried everything on that dang thing

Edited by JohnstonOctober

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okay yea ill just have it replated, but how to i take out the huge bolt that goes through the engine and the swing arm so i can get the engine out.

when i send to have it replated i take the powervalve out right?

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If the swing arm bolt is stuck do your best but you have to drive it out. It sounds like you should service the whole bike, lube all the suspension linkage,swing arm bearings and change the fork oil too.

You should take the power valve out and all the studs out and the dowels out too. The reeds too, send a bare cylinder.

Ed

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alright thanks if i have any more questions i guess ill post back here, does anyone know where i can get the CHEAPEST bottom end kit i found one for like 179 i think if i can get cheaper would really help me thanks.

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