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Rebuilding with DDT soon

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Ok I recently rebuilt the shock on my 07 yz450 and all went good I bought a nitrogen bottle and regulator so I am set on the shock tools. I plan on doing the kyb forks soon, what tools do I need. I already have a fork driver from my 2003 yz250, but I think the fork size is different, I want to have everything ready so I am not ordering tools the day before I plan on riding, Are the forks harder than the shock.

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dirt,

48 mm seal driver you will need. Red loctite, read bottle for cure time.

49mm kyb Fork cap wrench outer and inner hex socket to remove the base valve.

If you are replacing rod seals you will need a hex for that. I think its a 17mm allen with edges slightly rounded. You will have to modify the hex a little to get it to fit just right, dont' force it into the seal head. I will double check in the Am of exact size If you are replacing rod seals.

One last thing, this is in the procedure, get yourself a good pair of needle nose vice grips to assist in clamping the Midvalve as you build everything up. You will see what I'm referring to as you get to that point. :bonk:

Also its a good idea to chase the threads on all shafts. So you will need a die for that.

Good luck!:smirk:

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Ok I recently rebuilt the shock on my 07 yz450 and all went good I bought a nitrogen bottle and regulator so I am set on the shock tools. I plan on doing the kyb forks soon, what tools do I need. I already have a fork driver from my 2003 yz250, but I think the fork size is different, I want to have everything ready so I am not ordering tools the day before I plan on riding, Are the forks harder than the shock.

Just did this last week, pretty straight forward, I did his original DT back in 08, just did his full treatment lastest updates and shim build and the difference was amazing! Did a 72 mile loop out in the desert, from pounding the whoops to tight rocky single track. didn't even touch the clickers from his recommendations. Just rebuilt the shock today, hopefully it helps out the rear end.

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dirt,

48 mm seal driver you will need. Red loctite, read bottle for cure time.

49mm kyb Fork cap wrench outer and inner hex socket to remove the base valve.

If you are replacing rod seals you will need a hex for that. I think its a 17mm allen with edges slightly rounded. You will have to modify the hex a little to get it to fit just right, dont' force it into the seal head. I will double check in the Am of exact size If you are replacing rod seals.

One last thing, this is in the procedure, get yourself a good pair of needle nose vice grips to assist in clamping the Midvalve as you build everything up. You will see what I'm referring to as you get to that point. :bonk:

Also its a good idea to chase the threads on all shafts. So you will need a die for that.

Good luck!:smirk:

Cool thanks, how often do the rod seals need to be replaced, enzo did the forks last year and am not happy with them, should I replace the rod seals.

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Just did this last week, pretty straight forward, I did his original DT back in 08, just did his full treatment lastest updates and shim build and the difference was amazing! Did a 72 mile loop out in the desert, from pounding the whoops to tight rocky single track. didn't even touch the clickers from his recommendations. Just rebuilt the shock today, hopefully it helps out the rear end.

Cant wait to get my forks done. hopefully everything goes easy.

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Cool thanks, how often do the rod seals need to be replaced, enzo did the forks last year and am not happy with them, should I replace the rod seals.

Those are actually a high wear item. If you show no signs of leakage or rod retraction then you should be okay. It all depends on how you take care of your forks. Here is what I would do. Once you take your base valve off and the fluid in the inner chamber is really dirty and you have grime and grit in there. Then I would do the rod seals:thumbsup:

jw

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