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Whos running a high hp with a performance clutch? I am overpowering my stock unit and need something that will hold a decent amount of power...

Is upgrading the springs usually good enough?

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Have stock clutch in my SM but have used Barnett products in the past and can say the are very good.They make their springs strong enough without being too hard to pull the clutch.Their clutches would last easily 3 times as long as stock in my 2 strokes back in the day.

Somebody has to have one in their bike here....Eddie? Craig? Marquez?

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I say buy it and give it a try. You are obviously a baller since you slap turbos on everything so money is no problem for you.

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I have been running a 60hp DRZ on stock clutch for 15,000kms.. no issues thus far...

Obviously,your turbo is going to be producing way more torque than my naturally aspirated Z...

A new stock clutch with heavier springs may do the job...Perhaps you could email that Uncle Bob guy to see what he uses...http://www.unclebobsturbos.com/

IMO..The heavier springs will be the key ..I would request info from suppliers as to the spring rates and choose accordingly ..

Edited by CraigoDRZ400sm
added text

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Whos running a high hp with a performance clutch? I am overpowering my stock unit and need something that will hold a decent amount of power...

Is upgrading the springs usually good enough?

Would it be possible to add a friction disk and a plate to the existing assy. so the torque would be distibuted thru more contact surface? If the disks and plates could become a bit thinner...

Combined with stiffer springs for sure.

Would your oil be just a tiny bit too ''slippery'' and contribute to the slippage?

You probably already inspected the clutch assy. at least once... Your parts are closer to which side of the tolerances? It could influence the spring pressure ...maybe...

Those are just some thoughts... don't know if it would help/work.

Great project you have there man. Really really nice!!:bonk:

This thing must rip hard....:smirk:

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I think I will just go with tighter springs and new plates.

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You’re not over powering an OEM clutch. Unless you have built that motor putting out more than 60HP at the rear wheel.

What is your Turbo setup showing on a Dyno?

Id sooner think your clutch is worn out, contaminated, springs worn.

I could have a 100hp drz and the stock clutch might hold, its torque, especially at lower rpms that makes them slip

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I could have a 100hp drz and the stock clutch might hold, its torque, especially at lower rpms that makes them slip

Thanks for the unneeded lesson.. :bonk: Care to answer the question?

.. You have a nice build going on, nothing I’m personally interested in building, but I can appreciate the build as something well done. :smirk:

How many hours (or miles) on the clutch?

What Springs?

What oil or oil modifiers have been used?

Have you ever had fuel in the crank case?

Have you inspected the clutch? What did you find, drive or driven plates show signs of slippage? Plate thickness? Spring free length?

How much TQ (and HP ) is the build putting at the back wheel?

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The bike has 25000kms so it could very well be the oem clutch is done. I have no idea how the previous owner rode it or if it's ever been services. Granted it wasn't slipping before forced induction but I still would like to upgrade it to something more heavy duty that's all. I was just wondering what options are out there.

I don't know how much torque it's making, It doesn't make sense to dyno it with a clutch like that! :bonk:

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The bike has 25000kms so it could very well be the oem clutch is done. I have no idea how the previous owner rode it or if it's ever been services. Granted it wasn't slipping before forced induction but I still would like to upgrade it to something more heavy duty that's all. I was just wondering what options are out there.

I don't know how much torque it's making, It doesn't make sense to dyno it with a clutch like that! :smirk:

I think you nailed your best bet a few posts up.. New OEM driven plates, check the drive plates for wear, flatness, and use a new set of stronger springs :bonk:

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WOW,I am surprised everyone is running stock clutches in their hotrod motors.Though I have the original clutch in my hopped up 1990 DR350 (dirt model,pumper carb)so really not much of a surprise.That bike has waaay more torque than the sm -it will pull clutchless wheelies in 3rd gear with a uni filter,Airbox mod,Big Gun full exhaust and rejet.It has the six speed that the sm should have recieved:foul:My next question would be what is the price difference between stock and Barnett or stock and Barnett spings?

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WOW,I am surprised everyone is running stock clutches in their hotrod motors.Though I have the original clutch in my hopped up 1990 DR350 (dirt model,pumper carb)so really not much of a surprise.That bike has waaay more torque than the sm -it will pull clutchless wheelies in 3rd gear with a uni filter,Airbox mod,Big Gun full exhaust and rejet.It has the six speed that the sm should have recieved:foul:My next question would be what is the price difference between stock and Barnett or stock and Barnett spings?

popcorn.gif

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im running the stock clutch plates and fiction plates.i have stiffer springs(15% stiffer springs)im about to change out the clutch again.its been 25000kms for me and ive changed the clutch once before.i also beat on my 470 and when the plates are on the fence they will start to slip and if you can feel it sliping in 4th and 5th i would bet there on the fence.stock fiber plate is 3.00mm and thre limit is 2.62mm

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The cost difference is the price of the New Barnett disks and a new set of OEM disks you have to buy when you find out the issues you will have with the Barnett, , remove it and throw them away.

plate thickness is not known to be consistent, causing all kids of problems in this motor.

As well as , the OEM fiber plates have seen no issue at all handling all the HP and TQ a fully built motor has been putting out.

If so, I think the edit required is pretty simple so not a huge deal.

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