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Ways of lowering WR250f?

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I have just got myself a 2007 Wr250f! have ridden:ride: it once now at the track and only have one issue with it.... the seat height, is just a bit too high for me when getting on and off the bike. I am looking to go riding trails. So i want to lower the bike a bit, just to make it easier to put my foot down when needed (on the trails).

Does anyone have any suggestions on how i should lower my '07' WR250f, without hindering the handling too much. I have ridden my Dad's '03' Wr with a lowering link in it.....

:bonk::smirk:

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That's a tough one. It's difficult to change the chassis geometry without affecting handling. The front triples can drop (forks can be raised) about 10 mm. Along with this, the rear static sag of the shock can be increased, or a lowering link can be used to lower the rear. But, if you lower the rear more than the front, then you will be adding more "rake" to the forks and have a bike that feels like it turns a little less quickly. It might not bother you, too much. It depends on what you like.

Put up the kickstand before you get on the bike and after you get off. That at least lets you lean the bike over a little more and compress the static sag, which lowers the seat height.

Edited by Sofiedog

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Changes to the rear effect the geometry at a much different rate than changes to the rake/trail (fork). Ususally an inch or 40mm of rear lowering "equals" about 6 to 8mm up front (6mm is .25 inches).

I'd start by seeing if your sag is properly set and spring rates proper. Sometimes you can get a bike lower with those two methods, and proper sag allows the bike to handle soooooo much better than not enough sag or too much.

So you may get "free lowering" with proper sag: http://www.tootechracing.com/suspension_tips.htm

If you are on the verge of needing a heavier spring with the stock setup you will definitely need one with an aftermarket link due to the extra leverage to get proper sag otherwise it will bottom, wallow and understeer and not sit high enough in back for a balanced feel.

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That's a tough one. It's difficult to change the chassis geometry without affecting handling. The front triples can drop (forks can be raised) about 10 mm. Along with this, the rear static sag of the shock can be increased, or a loweing link can be used to lower the rear. But, if you lower the rear more than the front, then you will be adding more "rake" to the forks and have a bike that feels like it turns a little less quickly. It might not bother you, too much. It depends on what you like.

Put up the kickstand before you get on the bike and after you get off. That at least lets you lean the bike over a little more and compress the static sag, which lowers the seat height.

Yeh:thumbsup:

we did that with my Dad's Wr. The lowering link sat the back end down 1 1/2. Then we dropped the forks about 10-15mm, cause they hit the handlebars:ride:. So the back end sits a bit lower compared to the front. I don know weather using bar raiser would allow you to drop the forks a bit more, but i don't really like the idea of raising the bars.

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best way IMHO is to shave the seat

I was going to say this. Seems like the best way to get a little drop without altering the steering. Or maybe combined with slight lowering of the suspension would work, too.

I wouldn't know though, I'm 6'2" so I have the opposite problem:busted:

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best way IMHO is to shave the seat

Ouch!!! My 2006 WR250F stock seat is already pretty thin and hard!!!

I guess if you're young and have an aggressive riding style, you won't need to sit down much. :bonk:

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Ouch!!! My 2006 WR250F stock seat is already pretty thin and hard!!!

I guess if you're young and have an aggressive riding style, you won't need to sit down much. :bonk:

I'm 56 years old and 5' 5" and my '08 was too tall for me when I got it. I researched lowering links but I figured that I would mess with the seat first, as this is the easiest approach and it doesn't mess with the bike's geometry much.

First thing I did was to get a softer seat foam and cover from GUTS RACING, figuring that it might squish down some. Besides, the stock foam is pretty stiff IMO. I installed it and really didn't see much lowering benefit. So, there I was with two foams and two covers. Because the stock foam was stiffer and would hold me off of the seat base better if it was thinner, I started hacking away at it. Took out about 1 inch. I'd include a photo if I weren't at work. Anyway, this really helped ALOT, more than I expected. And my butt does not ever seem to fully compress the foam. My only error was that I didn't round the edges of the seat as much as I should have. I'll be doing that sometime soon.

If you go this route, be aware that cutting down the seat effectively raises the handlebar. It also brings the footpegs closer to the seat, which makes it that much tougher to go from sitting to standing. So, if either of these dimensions is bothering you now, it will really bother you if you cut down the seat.

:smirk:

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Ouch!!! My 2006 WR250F stock seat is already pretty thin and hard!!!

I guess if you're young and have an aggressive riding style, you won't need to sit down much. :bonk:

Yea well if you are short like me (and im guessing him), then im not sure you understand, lmao...i mean...i can only touch my toes on one side (5'8) of my wr...so, if i just so happen to stop in a bad spot and put my left foot down where a lil hole is, it can have catastrophic effects, LOL! jk, but I understand where he is coming from, and I too want to maybe shave the seat. I tend to be more of a stander anyhow...so when im riding its never a problem...its just stopping lol. I do want to dial in my suspension for best handling possible without mods to it...but I don't really wanna mess with geometry in a negative way.

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nemad, good points on the bars and pegs, i am not sure i would of even considered that. Nor am i sure how much it would bother me...ill just live with the single side toe touch, like i said above, riding its not a problem, and my last trail ride i actually thought the bike handled pretty dang good through various conditions.

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The only time i'm going to really use the effects of a lower bike is when stopping, getting on and getting off the bike, when on bad ground. Otherwise the height doesn't bother me.:smirk:

I may just go with the lowering link and dropping the forks, for the time being.

As i only just turned 17 i will probably, get a little bit taller, which then ill probably then go back to stock settings. :bonk:

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The best way to lower the seat height is to lower the suspension by putting spacers in the forks on the dampner rods and the on the shock shaft. There are articles here on Thumpertalk on how to do it. This is my next project - I'm going to lower my yz250 2 inches to help in the tight woods that we usually ride.

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The best way to lower the seat height is to lower the suspension by putting spacers in the forks on the dampner rods and the on the shock shaft. There are articles here on Thumpertalk on how to do it. This is my next project - I'm going to lower my yz250 2 inches to help in the tight woods that we usually ride.

You wouldn't have a link to that thread/ post would you? :bonk:

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Yea well if you are short like me (and im guessing him), then im not sure you understand, lmao...i mean...i can only touch my toes on one side (5'8) of my wr...so, if i just so happen to stop in a bad spot and put my left foot down where a lil hole is, it can have catastrophic effects, LOL! jk, but I understand where he is coming from, and I too want to maybe shave the seat. I tend to be more of a stander anyhow...so when im riding its never a problem...its just stopping lol. I do want to dial in my suspension for best handling possible without mods to it...but I don't really wanna mess with geometry in a negative way.

I understand. It's all about the unexpected stops when you need to touch a toe or you stall and need to get your feet down and the ground often isn't level. Then, you need to push your bike a little as you are feeding out clutch to get going again and to get back on your pegs.

I am fortunate that I'm 6'0. I didn't have problems with the WR250F height. It fit me well. However, when I got my 450X, I noticed that an extra inch of seat height mad a big difference. However, I didn't immediately jump to the conclusion that I wanted to add a lowering link. Why? Because, the handling traits of the bike dictated that I drop the front a little (raised the forks 10mm) and reduced the static sag of the rear a little to the top end of the spec (it raised the seat height) in order to get the bike to turn quicker.

I've ridden a 2006 WR250F (steel frame) and a 2007 WR250F (alum frame) and a 2005 CRF250X back to back on a small, private "track". Everyone's conclusions were the same. The CRF250X turns "quicker" and feels "lighter" through tight turns than either of the WR's. The alum frame WR felt "quicker" than the steel frame WR.

So..., if a quick turning bike is important to you, you may not want to lower the rear. You may want to drop the front and keep the rear high. Also, when I am out on the trails for hours, a comfortable seat is important to me to keep me happy.

So, what do you do? My girlfriend is 5'8". She started on a CRF230F with a low seat height and a short wheelbase. She got very good, very quickly in tight trails because she could always get her feet down and wasn't afraid of falling all the time. She has since outgrown the 230Fs lousy suspension and handling, and rides my WR250F now. However, after a couple of years in the tight stuff on the smaller bike, she has developed skills that enable her to handle the taller bike better.:bonk:

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Yea, i mean i have no problem handling the bike, i may be 5'8, but im also a stocky 175lbs, so the bike def isnt too much lmao. Its just yea, stopping in some situations i may barely have a toe to stand on (hehe)...gonna start doin some more calf raises at the gym, LOL!!! And like i said too, i really thought the bike handled well, least to me after not riding for a long time prior to buying it, I do think as i get some more rides in, there will be some tweaks, but i dont really wanna mess with susp height neccesarily.

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Sounds good. Everyone has to decide for themselves what's important. I'm just sayin' that every change has an affect and when riders lower the rear end of a WR they could consider that in their decision.

Unfortunately, going to a bike with a shorter seat height (ex. 230F, TTR) means giving up on suspension quality, handling, and power. Eventually, that level of bike will hold you back. BTW, the fastest and most skilled rider in my extended riding group is 5'8"...:bonk: The size of the bike doesn't seem to matter to him.

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I could probably live with it as it is, as i am not really short (170cm 5ft 7in).

But i have found another solution.....

http://www.shocktreatment.com.au/lower.html

You can lower the bike to an level you want, (max 90mm lower).

I’m wondering is it really worth it.... As it will only really be needed on the trails. which i will be able to ride when i turn 18 (10 more months! :bonk:)

So i am only riding tracks at the momment.

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I have a WR250f that I lowered last year. I have a 32" inseam and I wanted to be able to get my feet down in technical terrain if needed.

What you do depends how much you want to lower it.

I got the yamalink and reset the rear sag. That lowered it 1.5".

Shaved the seat to get another 0.5" off

Lowered the front about 1/4" to balance it. After I rode it for a while I lowered the front end a little more and that made all the difference in turning.

Now the bike feels great and I can put both feet down. Not quite flat footed, but enough to catch the bike as I tip over. The downside is that my foot pegs are noticeably lower to the ground.

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You could tape 4" blocks to the bottom of your riding boots add an automatic transmission lmao, my 5'5" son is 11 and he rides my 04 WR250f he just hangs a leg when he stops. He learned to do this in the back yard when he moved up from a KX65 to his YZ85, practice this at home so you dont fall in front of all your buddies in the parking lot.

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