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WR250X "19" code

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2008 WR250X, 17000+ miles, PCIII, recent battery, recent spark plug

Lately, when starting the bike, the meter display reads "19" briefly when first cranking over. This is in place of the tripmeter or odometer.

The bike has been unusually difficult to start the last few days after sitting 12+ hours in an unheated but above-freezing garage. It starts right up after sitting 9+ hours outside in a below- or slightly-above-freezing parking lot. It gets ridden 4-5 days per week so I don't bother putting it on a battery charger.

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Codes =

12-Crank Pos Sensor

13-Intake Air Pressure Sensor open or short

14-Intake Air Pressure Sensor Pipe restriction

15-Throttle Pos Sensor open or short

16-Throttle Pos Sensor stuck

17-Exup servo motor open or short

18-Exup servo motor stuck

19-Sidestand switch open

21-Coolant Temp Sensor

22-Intake Air Temp Sensor

30-Lean Angle Sensor crash or laydown detected

33-Ignition Coil

41-Lean Angle Sensor Short

42-Speed Sensor, Neutral Switch

43-Fuel System voltage

44-Error in writing the amount of CO adjustment to EEPROM

46-Vehicle System Power Supply

50-ECU internal malfuntion

70-Long Idle detected 20min auto stop

Sometimes a bad battery or poor battery connection gives rise to random codes. I think skierd noticed that; perhaps someone else.

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More details. I put the battery on the tender yesterday for 12 hours. This morning, upon turning the key, the meter read "19." It cranked and cranked without starting, the worst ever. Sidestand up or down, didn't matter. It caught twice and died. Finally started then died when I later put it in gear. Restarted, warmed up, and no problem 13 miles in to work in 16F temps.

I run grip heaters so I'm sure they suck the battery. But they are off when I start the bike. The battery is a Yuasa YTZ7S bought new in October. The original battery would crank but not start the bike.

What's up with the code list? Aren't those codes from diagnostic mode?

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Check your sidestand switch. It will cause all sorts of randoms stalls if it is gunked up or going bad.

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What's up with the code list? Aren't those codes from diagnostic mode?

Umm , Isn't that exactly what it's doing , diagnosing your problem for you ? Makes finding a problem kinda dummy proof and should save a boat load of expensive shop time .

I'd be thanking Yamaha if my old XT350 had a set up like that .

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Bad connections and low voltages caused by said connections can come back and bite you. The sidestand switch is sort of infamous for causing this, and any of a number of other connections could possibly trigger these things. Under the left side cover on the bike below the seat are all sorts of relays and other things, tucked in behind each other.

I'd start by checking every single connection ink that area, and I'd also follow the wiring from the star switch and prove it made good contact. With the ECU thinking, right or wrong, that it has a sidestand switch in the open position, the engine will never start. It decides this based on thinking it is in gear, and the stand is down. So the neutral sensor has at least some input as well. Pull the seat and check the ECU connector as well. DO NOT UNPLUG the ECU with the battery hooked up. I'm guessing it is either the stand switch going bad, or a flaky connection somewhere, most likely wiring to the stand switch and/or neutral switch, ECU, etc..

I had a similar problem with an overtemp shutdown problem that ended up being a bad connection at the ECU pins that told the relay for the fan to come on, but didn't. After troubleshooting and resolving the connection/logic state hangup, it has been fine since.

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Hey here is my personal opinion. I hate safety switches!! So I'd disconnect it and bypass.....

If you choose that option here is how to do it...

There are two types of stop switches:

(1) Normally Open, (NO)

(2) Normally Closed, (NC).

Normally Open work by GROUNDING the primary ignition lead when activated. Normally Closed (NC) switch, works by OPENING the circuit when activated. NC switches are typically used on battery type ignitions, which may have an ignition key as an identifier. NC switches are generally found on newer machines. If in doubt, check your machine's wiring schematic.

So if you find the wires for the switch you can unplug them if the problem continues then cross the leads on the wires and it should run because you bypassed the switch.

If the switch is a NO switch the wires would need to be connected, for the switch to be on and allow the engine to run. If its a NC switch The wires would need to be disconnected.

Good luck!!! but this is a way to test to make sure its the switch, and then possibily get rid of it for no future problems.

If its a three wire I'd have to think about it for a little bit longer.

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Keep in mind that some states require the switch to be installed and operating for inspection. Many don't, but this one does.

Usually, a bit of WD40 resolves most switch problems.

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Hey Just Bob..I think I can hear your chain screaming"help me-help me":lol:

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Hey Just Bob..I think I can hear your chain screaming"help me-help me":lol:

After multiple IVs of kerosene and injections of KY Jelly it was determined the chain would not come out of its coma. As I type it lies in the scrap metal recycle pile and has been replaced with a gold non-o ring chain, a drilled 13 front and a blue anodized al-you-minium 48 rear sprocket.

I was holding off on spending anything until I determined that the bike is a hoot and a keeper.

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