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rekluse exp or trade for x

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Trying to decide which way to go. I have a 2007 450r because I got an awesome deal. I ride mostly woods with my son and 50% of that is tight technical Rocky stuff. I have 13 oz fw and 13/51 sprockets. I have 40 hrs on the bike and have a chance to trade for 2006 450x with 80 hrs. I love my bike except in the tight technical stuff, it kills me. I know my bike and its dependable and solid. Thinking of a rekluse clutch instead of trading but the electric start and tranny gearing of the x are appealing. Not sure what to do.

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buy the auto clutch and try it, helps a lot with the stalling problem. you still use the clutch like you would. there's threads on this, just search auto clutch. by changing the gearing, like you have, helps too. i run a little lower gear and i have the clutch and flywheel.

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if your struggling in tight stuff on the r your going to on the x as well. Tight stuff is still tight regardless of the bike, and the clutch pull won't be that much if any better. Weight is more on the x, ext.. Get the recluse.

I race A class harescrambles, and have both a 13oz fww and exp recluse. For the rocky and more tight stuff your doing, i would go with more fww than 13oz. The COREexp recluse would be better, as you use all the clutch plates (requiring the larger clutch cover that comes with the $899 version) vs. taking some out of the one i use ($399) so i need to be in the right gear to not abuse the clutch and heat up too much.

.. however.. the electric start sure would be nice. :bonk:

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I have never owned a proper trail machine, but I think they are designed around the concept of not stalling. If you read reviews of the latest trail specific machines (KTM specifically) the magazines make it sound like they are almost impossible to stall.

I ride an 06 R in very tight stuff and I can tell you that this bike is not designed to run in those conditions. Anything above crawling speed and the R is fine, but it is not made to crawl.

I have modified my bike with a FWW, Rekluse pro, 18in rim, softened suspension, lights, trailtech computer, and countless other small upgrades to make it trail worthy.

Although my bike rocks the offroad, and is almost impossible to stall in the tight stuff, in retrospect I wish I would have just bought a trail rated machine off the bat and saved myself the thousands of dollars in modifications it has taken to make this machine "tight trail worthy".

I dont know the X at all, but that is my $.02.

Cheers

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.. you guys seem to be under the false impression an "X" model won't stall .. lol.. that is simply not the case! I have ridden them, more "trail friendly" ? Sure, but they don't have a magic transmission.

Thumpin71, having ridden your R that is now modified, if you were to get an x model, you would (in retrospect) want your modified R model back :bonk:

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What about the cooling system on the x.? I often have to stop to help the boy catch up or get ahead and the r tends to heat up. Will the x resist this a little better? If I keep the r, I was going to make a coolant recovery system.

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I stall every once in a while but my main problem seems to be that even with 13/51 sprockets first gear is pretty tall still and I am on the clutch constantly and if I miss a beat and lose momentum its almost impossible to get started if in mid climb or right at the base of a hill. Just can't get traction, just remember how my xr200 was almost Luke a tractor when I was a kid.

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bigger radiators help ($110), but if you are slipping the clutch a lot to keep going then your gonna overheat. this past year i over heated once with stock radiators. crushed my left one last ride, so i replaced them. if you pinch off passage ways (cores), it will overheat easier. try the exp2.0, i think you'll like it.

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i run a 4.00, you're running a 3.92. i'm considering a 4.08, gearing helps considerably. my first real woods bike was a 1971 sl125, geared it way down and it would go anywhere.

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I have never owned a proper trail machine, but I think they are designed around the concept of not stalling. If you read reviews of the latest trail specific machines (KTM specifically) the magazines make it sound like they are almost impossible to stall.

I ride an 06 R in very tight stuff and I can tell you that this bike is not designed to run in those conditions. Anything above crawling speed and the R is fine, but it is not made to crawl.

I have modified my bike with a FWW, Rekluse pro, 18in rim, softened suspension, lights, trailtech computer, and countless other small upgrades to make it trail worthy.

Although my bike rocks the offroad, and is almost impossible to stall in the tight stuff, in retrospect I wish I would have just bought a trail rated machine off the bat and saved myself the thousands of dollars in modifications it has taken to make this machine "tight trail worthy".

I dont know the X at all, but that is my $.02.

Cheers

I have almost the exact same setup as you and I would take the "R" over the "X" anyday, the X feels like a pig IMO, yeah it can be tuned to run much better, but it is still heavier by a noticeable margin. The rekluse allows you to use long gearing and still have a good 1st gear on the "R" that will tractor just fine, I run a 14/44 and I can still climb steep slow technical hlls.

You can buy the larger radiators as well to help cooling.

I would stick with the R and get a rekluse with a heavy flywheel and I think you will be surprised how nice it will be after that...although sometimes I wish I had a magic start button, IMO thats the best advantage to the X.

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I have almost the exact same setup as you and I would take the "R" over the "X" anyday, the X feels like a pig IMO, yeah it can be tuned to run much better, but it is still heavier by a noticeable margin. The rekluse allows you to use long gearing and still have a good 1st gear on the "R" that will tractor just fine, I run a 14/44 and I can still climb steep slow technical hlls.

You can buy the larger radiators as well to help cooling.

I would stick with the R and get a rekluse with a heavy flywheel and I think you will be surprised how nice it will be after that...although sometimes I wish I had a magic start button, IMO thats the best advantage to the X.

man that is tall, what kind of top speed do you have. it,s got to be a bullet in 5th. that,s the gearing a flattracker would run on a fast half mile. but i guess you need that in desert. too fast for me, for sure.

:bonk:

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I have a 450R that I race and ride single track 05'

It's a stock bore and stroke just KW BD valves and springs.

Run a 13/52 gearing and might bump up to a 50 rear..

I have a Rekluse EXP 2.0 in my bike and probably would not ride it in the woods again after having it in.

It's definitely worth what I paid for it and it's definitely worth it for me and many others.

I can speak for for any CRF in the woods ain't going to be as easy. The X model has a smoother "hit" and bogs down slower better. BUT it's nothing compared to a R with a Rekluse. You have the best of both worlds

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Does the exp 2.0 hold up well seeing that you have to remove a few clutch disks compared to the core exp?

can it hold up? yes. will it take the abuse the Core will? No.. If your in the right gear all the time (as you would be without an auto clutch) and you keep the revs up a bit, it's not an issue. If you let your buddy ride your bike however, and they lug the thing around in 3rd/4th gear making the clutch slip ALOT, you will smoke the plates.. The CORE using all your stock plates AND the EXP ring will take more abuse (but is way more money).

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can it hold up? yes. will it take the abuse the Core will? No.. If your in the right gear all the time (as you would be without an auto clutch) and you keep the revs up a bit, it's not an issue. If you let your buddy ride your bike however, and they lug the thing around in 3rd/4th gear making the clutch slip ALOT, you will smoke the plates.. The CORE using all your stock plates AND the EXP ring will take more abuse (but is way more money).

Since I installed a Rekluse EXP 2.0 in my 2007 YZ250 there is nothing different that I am doing with regards to gear selection. I just never touch my clutch lever anymore throughout the entire day of riding. When it comes time to upshift or downshift I just let off the throttle and change gears. Per Rekluse technical support's recommendation I did change the type of transmission oil that I run in the bike. I started running Shell Rotella T 15W-40 Heavy Duty Engine Oil instead of Bel-Ray Gear Saver 80W. The first time I rode the bike with the Rotella T 15W-40 in it I was surprised by how much smoother the transmission seemed to function. Also, the slight off idle clutch chatter I was getting with the Rekluse EXP 2.0 for just a second or so was eliminated. Now I am glad that I gave Rekluse's technical support a call. They were excellent!

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.. yea, but if you tell em what your doing with the bike (racin) and at what pace you ride (A, AA) they will tell ya you can easily smoke the exp2.0. (i have had many tech support calls with em too :bonk: ) MANY riders will not have an issue, and even faster riders taking some care won't, but the 2.0 at a retail of $399 was designed to get riders that otherwise wouldn't buy due to an $899 price tag, into an auto clutch. It is NOT going to take serious abuse.. :smirk: I run the rotella as well (have for years), and it is what recluse suggests if your having any issues with chatter as you were.

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Ok, let's say I keep the r, what could I do with the suspension? Rode my buddy's xr 400 and the suspension is very plush and soaks up the bumps. . I really don't know much about my r suspension as far as what adjustments to make to help soften it up. I don't do many big jumps and stuff so I dont need agressive suspension settings. Seems like trail bikes are set a lot softer. I am almost 40 and had a 25 year break from riding. The old bikes I used to ride never had any adjustments to worry about.

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.. yea, but if you tell em what your doing with the bike (racin) and at what pace you ride (A, AA) they will tell ya you can easily smoke the exp2.0. (i have had many tech support calls with em too :smirk: ) MANY riders will not have an issue, and even faster riders taking some care won't, but the 2.0 at a retail of $399 was designed to get riders that otherwise wouldn't buy due to an $899 price tag, into an auto clutch. It is NOT going to take serious abuse.. :banana: I run the rotella as well (have for years), and it is what recluse suggests if your having any issues with chatter as you were.

it will hold up for you. you won't abuse it enough. just add a tooth or two. gearing is everything. how fast do you need to go. 70 is good for me on top, but in the woods i feel better with the lower gear. :bonk:

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Ok, let's say I keep the r, what could I do with the suspension? Rode my buddy's xr 400 and the suspension is very plush and soaks up the bumps. . I really don't know much about my r suspension as far as what adjustments to make to help soften it up. I don't do many big jumps and stuff so I dont need agressive suspension settings. Seems like trail bikes are set a lot softer. I am almost 40 and had a 25 year break from riding. The old bikes I used to ride never had any adjustments to worry about.

it will never be plush or offroad/harescramble/enduro friendly as it should be without a revlave. There are some things you can do to sort of soften it up, but it is valved for jumps. you want a softer initial stroke which only comes with a revlave.

Softer fork spring (just replace 1), little less oil level, back the adjusters way off.

it will hold up for you. you won't abuse it enough. just add a tooth or two. gearing is everything. how fast do you need to go. 70 is good for me on top, but in the woods i feel better with the lower gear. :bonk:

famous last words.

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it will never be plush or offroad/harescramble/enduro friendly as it should be without a revlave. There are some things you can do to sort of soften it up, but it is valved for jumps. you want a softer initial stroke which only comes with a revlave.

Softer fork spring (just replace 1), little less oil level, back the adjusters way off.

famous last words.

what........:bonk:

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