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350xcf oil

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Ok guys I changed my oil at 1.1hrs and now have 3.5 I used the motorex 4t 1st time.

But I need the best alternative, I don't wanna spend $30+ for oil and filter change every few hours. I'm defentily sticking to the oem filter.

But we also sale amsoil 10w40full syn for about $10

Honda syn blend which is about 6 bucks also 10w40

Please let me know.

oh yea 2012 350xcf

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I run Mobil 1 5w-50 Fully syn car oil in my 350 excf. No drama's, have run it in all my bikes, its a great oil.

If i were you i wouldnt run anything lighter than a 50 weight oil (hot upper viscosity range) in this engine and i would stick with a fully syn oil. This engine runs hot, is also dealing with gearbox pressure's/duties aswell, packing quite a few hp for its size and needs a oil that doesnt get too thin at higher operating temps.

5w-50,10w-50, 10w-60 fully syn... all good :bonk:

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Mobile One car oil is not the best thing with a wet clutch.

Why are you changing your oil every three hours? Seems quite excessive.

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Mobile One car oil is not the best thing with a wet clutch.

Why are you changing your oil every three hours? Seems quite excessive.

What makes you say that? Im just going off personal experience like,

08 WR250F = 330 hours on it when i sold it. Never touched the bottom end, gearbox or clutch in that time

2010 400 EXC = 180 hours when i sold it. Same story, original bottom end, gearbox and clutch when i sold it.

Expert level Enduro rider, with ALOT of racing on each bike, ridden like they were stolen but looked after.

Both bike run on Mobil 1 5w-50 Fully syn car oil (engine and gearbox) from auto parts store.

Works fine for me and anyone else i know that runs it.

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Your going to get alot of different opinions on oil!

i was using the motorex stuff to start with in the 350 sxf but a friend of mine thats a pro racer told me to look up rotella T oil and thats what i have been using

i use a stainless filter from DT1 filters this is a nice thing to use cos you see whats being filtered rather that just dumping it in the bin

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Really thinking about going to the rotella t6 but it's hard for me to put a non motorcycle oil in my wet clutch bike. Seems like it works really wellfor other members post.

I've been dragracing for many years and always have used just the standard hp4 10w40 Honda oil, but I change it about every 20 passes or so.

I have never spun a bearing in any of my motors, but I firmily believe that it's because I change the oil often. Clutch material will kill bearings.

I use the scotts stainless filters in a couple of my Busa motors.

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Rotella t6 is MA rated. Should be good. I believe that is of a similar base oil as amsoil. I wouldnt hesitate to use it, and may switch myself.

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Motorex 10-60 Crosspower was developed for the 350.. Its in its own group and is ester synthetic. I get it in 6.6 gallon jugs.. They say you can go 10-15 hours per oil change but personally I could never do that. I went 5 hours and it felt wrong lol but the oil came out with good color still. I ran rotella for years in other bikes never had an issue but I changed it every ride or two no more than that and it would come out like black water still. Main thing is if your going to run a non synthetic oil I would change it way way more often.

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I was sold after running the Amsoil back to back with the Motorex. With the Amsoil, there is nothing on the magnetic plug, it shifts easier, the clutch is like butter, and it measured 15 degrees cooler. Plus, there is an excellent white paper with all the scientific proof to back it up. Not trying to start an oil war, I ran Rotella for many years and also a lot of Motorex in machine tool spindles. When I saw the dramatic difference myself, I just had to let others know. It really is that much better, I am changing all my stuff over to Amsoil.

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I was sold after running the Amsoil back to back with the Motorex. With the Amsoil, there is nothing on the magnetic plug, it shifts easier, the clutch is like butter, and it measured 15 degrees cooler. Plus, there is an excellent white paper with all the scientific proof to back it up. Not trying to start an oil war, I ran Rotella for many years and also a lot of Motorex in machine tool spindles. When I saw the dramatic difference myself, I just had to let others know. It really is that much better, I am changing all my stuff over to Amsoil.

Those Amsoil tests did not include Redline oil for a reason. You figure it out! Amsoil is a group IV base oil and Redline is a group V. Do some research and you might change your thinking. I currently have a Yamaha 450 with over 400 hours on it without ever opening up the motor or clutch. All original!

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I think I would want the 50 in there to satisfy the engine requirements. The Amsoil MCV 20W-50 will work great with the clutch and deal better with the heat.

Merry Christmas!

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There's always another side.

http://www.78209.com/oil.html

They didn't compare the same types of oil in the article....

I think we are at the point the oils are both pretty good, my original point was to use the synthetic for the high heat of the engines and a 50W like KTM recommends.

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