Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

2011 YZ 250 2t rebound stack for offroad

Recommended Posts

I am trying to make my forks a little more forgiving and responsive on smaller square edge bumps. Usually I ride about 95% woods (eastern style harescrambles and enduros) and just a little bit of moto. It only seems to be an issue smaller trail junk (repetitive roots and rocks)

Stock stack

20x.11 -3

13x.11-1

18x.11-1

16x.11-1

14x.11-1

12x.11-1

10x.25-1

Proposed stack

20x.11-3

12x.11-1

18x.11-1

16x.11-1

14x.11-1

12x.11-1

10x.11-1

9x.20-1

I have .43kg (.42n/m) springs installed...(.44 kg stock)

Is going to a 9mm clamp shim to far? should i only change the crossover or....?

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is going to a 9mm clamp shim to far? should i only change the crossover or....?

I doubt you will feel much diffence going from a 13 to a 12 crossover.

edit: oh, yes. why looking just at the rebound?

Edited by kawamaha

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why do you look just at the rebound?

95% harescrambles asks for more changes!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've already modded the Base and Mid....just looking to make final touchs....trying to get it as good as possible.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I've already modded the Base and Mid....just looking to make final touchs....trying to get it as good as possible.

What did you go with on those stacks?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Stock base

32x.11-16

30x.11-1

28x.11-1

26x.11-1

24x.11-1

22x.11-1

20x.11-1

18x.11-1

16x.25-1

base plate

11x.25-5

14x.11-1

16x.11-1

18x.11-1

20x.11-1

22x.11-2

Mod base

32x.11-16

26x.11-1

30x.11-1

28x.11-1

26x.11-1

24x.11-1

22x.11-1

20x.11-1

18x.11-1

16x.11-1

14x.25-2

base plate

11x.25-3

Stock Mid

20x.11-4

18x.11-1

16x.11-1

14x.11-1

12x.15-1

11x.30-2

17x.30-2

5.3mm slide collar

8x.15-1

Mod Mid

20x.11-4

17x.11-1

14x.11-1

11x.30-2

17x.30-2

5.3 slide collar

8x.15-1 is removed and have .11 more float than stock

comp-14 reb-14 300cc oil level .43kg springs

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Depends on your personal feel, but I think you could go softer for enduro/harescramble. Your current Comp/mid setting seems to me like a soft MX setting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Depends on your personal feel, but I think you could go softer for enduro/harescramble. Your current Comp/mid setting seems to me like a soft MX setting.

What would you do to make it softer? I am about to put my forks together after doing a very similar shim arrangement.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, actually the problem is I dont know exactly what harescrambles requires but I assume its similar to woods.

And then its still a personal view but....

...for this I would remove e.g. 6 faceshims from the base, perhaps invert the bleedstack or just soften it (like the mod stack shows it by replacing the bleedstack be 11.x shims), ditch 1 faceshim of the mv and one of reb.

This should give you a decent starting point for a offroad/woods bike.

But the mod stack posted here got a Xover and a smaller clamp + a bit softend mid. It is also significant softer than stock. Just different ways of doing it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have any of you guy's played around with a smaller clamp shim on TC kyb forks...I ask because i don't know if just dropping 1 face shim is enough....wouldn't a smaller clamp have a greater effect on the whole circuit and maybe let me run the clicker in a little farther to help the mid when i do ride moto?

Thanks again

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I ask because i don't know if just dropping 1 face shim is enough

Is it that large of a concern if it isn't? You're DIY so if it's not quite what you want then pull them apart and make another change. Making changes and testing the result is what helps you understand the correlation between the two.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Is it that large of a concern if it isn't? You're DIY so if it's not quite what you want then pull them apart and make another change. Making changes and testing the result is what helps you understand the correlation between the two.

not a concern....just looking to see if anyone had tried it already and to see what they tought and if they liked it.

thanks:thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Have any of you guy's played around with a smaller clamp shim on TC kyb forks...I ask because i don't know if just dropping 1 face shim is enough....wouldn't a smaller clamp have a greater effect on the whole circuit and maybe let me run the clicker in a little farther to help the mid when i do ride moto?

Thanks again

years ago I made a dyno and going from a 16 to a 14 clamp should make a big difference, but I didn't ever run a different clamp in my bike.

1 face shim is a very small change and I'm positive at least I wouldn't feel a difference.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Marktech,

I fought this same sort of battle with my '06 YZ450 desert racer starting with a very nearly identical stock rebound stack. My overall setup was somewhat different because I'm running the Gen2 dual spring "Dell Taco" mid valve from SMART Performance, but in trying to deal with the light chop harshness issue, we did modify the rebound to help the fork recover more quickly so that the wheel would follow the terrain better.

I removed 1 face shim, and it did make a noticeable difference. In your stock stack that would be:

20x.11-2

13x.11-1

18x.11-1

16x.11-1

14x.11-1

12x.11-1

10x.25-1

You might also consider softening the face further by going with:

20x.11-1

18 or 16x.11-1

13x.11-1

18x.11-1

16x.11-1

14x.11-1

12x.11-1

10x.25-1

Your proposal to use a 12 in place of a 13 in position 3 also seems like a good idea, but I agree with the earlier comment that the change might be too small to notice by itself, and maybe an 11 would be better there.

You're correct in thinking that the clamp shim will change the whole stack, but my thinking is that reducing the clamp in this case will be increasingly effective as you move toward longer high speed extensions of the fork, while what you are fighting is the resistance of the fork to respond immediately to a loss of load and extend the first bit more rapidly. Because of that, my opinion (which could easily be wrong) is that changing the face will help you with that more than changing the clamp. You may still want to do both in the end.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Grayracer513

Thank you very much that was the type insight i was looking for....thanks again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You're welcome. I should point out that the biggest improvement in dealing with small chop harshness and in reducing the amount of deflection in rocky sections came not from reworking the rebound, which did help, but from working with the mid valve to give it more initial compliance with high speed compressions. The mid valve I use has no float, so the solution I used wouldn't apply to yours, but even though the rebound will help you, I think the earlier mention of softening the mid valve further might be more productive overall.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have exparimented with more float (.15 more flaot than stock), but seems to start riding low in the stroke especially on downhills and hard front braking.

I will play around with rebound to find the sweet spot....thanks again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×