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Adding CB to a TE510 -06, go or no go?

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Hi!

I have just picked everything to pieces since I need to replace the con rod bearing.

I have also planned to add a CB shaft to reduce the vibrations a bit, it's not unbearable to ride it but I have some problems with numb fingers after an hour of riding.

I have got all the parts needed, CB shaft, bearings, sprockets etc but you do need to remove the press fitted flywheel weight to be able to mount the CB drive sprocket.

Last day when I left all parts to the workshop for the con rod switch, I asked if they also could remove the flywheel weight and fit the CB drive sprocket but the guy simply refused to do it by some reason. I agreed with the work shop guy that he just fix the con rod and decided to deal with the CB mounting issue later.

If I decide to have a go with it, how hard is it really to remove the flywheel weight? Can I dare to do it myself as quite experienced DIY mechanic or do I need to find another workshop that can help me out?

The drive sprocket is supposed to be press fitted to the shaft but it does have hole that indicates that a pin is used to secure its position. If there is a hole for that pin on the shaft, it will be easy to get the sprocket mounted in the correct position. If there is no hole there, I need to figure out how the CB should be positioned versus the crank and I am not to keen on guessing, it could turn ugly if I do this wrong:bonk:

I put a pic of the crankshaft on photobucket:

http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m632/uaj64/IMG_0362_small.jpg

The shiny part is the pressed on flywheel weight and its the CB drive sprocket that just hangs on the shaft.

So I have now to decide if I should try to mount the CB in some way or just skip it, fill the handlebars with lead and be happy...

Any input welcome!

B R Ulf

Edited by uaj
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I would call Halls or UpTite, those guys will know for sure what is needed. :bonk:

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Thanks, but since I am located in Sweden I will try to find someone a bit more locally that might help me with this.

I have already quite good track on what parts are needed, the only thing I don't have is the eventual locking pin for the CB drive sprocket, I will once again check the documentation to see if I can figure that out.

It would be good to hear some experiences from those of you that actually has added a CB to your Husqvarna. The problem for me now is that the work shop guy thats fixing the rod was of the opinion that CB's don't make that of a difference so I am a bit uncertain on how I should proceed right now.

B R Ulf

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I added a pic of the SMR crank parts description:

http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m632/uaj64/SMR-510-06Crank.jpg

Here you clearly see the locking pin for the CB drive sprocket. Its not listed as a separate part so I took a gamble and bought two of #8 lock pin but that one turned out to be too small. I guess that it would be possible to find a suitable pin at a machine shop.

If I decide to go ahead with this, my main concern is if the corresponding hole for the pin is there on my TE-crank?

B R Ulf

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I added a pic of the SMR crank parts description:

http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m632/uaj64/SMR-510-06Crank.jpg

Here you clearly see the locking pin for the CB drive sprocket. Its not listed as a separate part so I took a gamble and bought two of #8 lock pin but that one turned out to be too small. I guess that it would be possible to find a suitable pin at a machine shop.

If I decide to go ahead with this, my main concern is if the corresponding hole for the pin is there on my TE-crank?

B R Ulf

Hi Ulf,

I've no 1st hand experience but I'm sure this has been covered in depth , back in the '05 to '07 period, unfortunately a lot of the owners who did this conversion , will no longer be using TT regularly,

(cafeH)

I'm sure a search will come up with good info.., but it sounds like you are 95% there anyway,

Charlie

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You may want to talk with Robertaccio on here or Cafehusky.

IIRC he did it with his bike.

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robertaccio checking in. remove the flywheel weight (stupid heavy) from the crankshaft, per maintenance manual use a drill bit or other to pin equal to the align hole in the gear and crankshaft. (Heat gear, cool crank) press gear onto your built up crankshaft assy with the alingnment pin to keep you in proper index.

****** Now it is my recommendation (from years of experience) to put some evenly spaced welds onto the gear/crank line to prevent the gear from ever slipping on the crankshaft. In my opinion this was a serious oversight on the part of engineering, not having some sort of lock device(splines or key etc) on a drive gear that turns a mass object from a shaft that has built in vibration frequencies. We put 4 short welds evenly spaced.

When you are complete you will be amazed at the difference from no C/B to C/B shaft built motor. I have stated that it was a big error to remove the C/B shaft in the name of performance, less vibe = alot less stress on me and the machine. The bike actually feels like the crank is lighter without that heavy flywheel disc and even with the C/B shaft to drive.

If the crank mech all ready had the crank apart that was the time to have the flywheel disc pressed off the shaft, it is snug against the crank weight and banging around on a built crank is not a good idea if if it aligned and balanced all ready. Best of luck and I dont ever understand a mech that refuses something like this because he "thinks" its not a good idea. All the SM models have this C/B shaft assy installed. Also when our US west coast Husky Race team ZipTy Husky ran these bikes in the Desert they were all modded with C/B shafts (thats what gave me the idea to it)

It is the #1 mod I did to my 08TXC450 in a long list of stuff

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Thanks for good input!

I will have go with the CB installation but I also need to fix a bit with the gearbox, I found some quite worn sprockets, especially sprocket for gear 6 on the coupling shaft looks bad.

Hopefully I will be able to get all parts before Christmas break so I can start the rebuild soon.

I will keep you posted!

B R Ulf

Edited by uaj
Spell fix

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Thanks for good input!

I will have go with the CB installation but I also need to fix a bit with the gearbox, I found some quite worn sprockets, especially sprocket for gear 6 on the coupling shaft looks bad.

Hopefully I will be able to get all parts before Christmas break so I can start the rebuild soon.

I will keep you posted!

B R Ulf

Ulf, best of show, you will be very happy you did the install, also be sure to change your shift drum while all is apart, it gets wear (its billet Alum vs steel on the shift forks) Its another part but is not very expensive and worth the change.

Back to the C/B shaft drive gear, after you pull the flywheel weight(disc) you will see the alignment hole in the crank for the gear. Make sure your crank guy is very thorough in measuing all your crank dims so you get the best possible balance. You will love your "new" bike. My TXC450 is now for sale after one year of C/B shaft pleasure, but only because I found a super good price on a 2011 310. My 450 should give the next owner a good 200+ hours of hard riding or even more if used as a trail bike.

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Status update:

I have checked the gear drum, thanks for the hint Robertaccio, and can't find any sign of wear. I have some got new sprockets but am still waiting for the exit gear shaft, the old one had worn chain sprocket splines.

There is some progress on the crank shaft, new rod and CB drive gear in place:

http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m632/uaj64/IMG_0379.jpg

I will go for press fit mounting only and lock the drive sprocket with a pressed in pin in the alignment hole.

I am looking forward to put it all together again!

B R Ulf

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When you are complete you will be amazed at the difference from no C/B to C/B shaft built motor.

I am also verry pleased with my 06' CB install I did durring a full inspection of my first husky, It went form an good bike, to my favorite bike with that one addition.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=345940&highlight=TE510&page=22

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Nice. I plan on doing this mod once anything goes wrong with the motor on my '04 tc.

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Status update:

I am a bit delayed in getting it all back again, had to wait some weeks on a upgraded water pump until it finally arrrived today!

The pump is apparantly an original Husqvarna part, you see the part number on the box on the photo.

Meanwhile, I have been fixing some other stuff, changed seals in the fork and some of the needle bearings in the swing arm.

I also let a suspension shop do a service on the Sachs damper so now the Husky is getting into shape again.

http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m632/uaj64/Newandoldwaterpumps.jpg

http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m632/uaj64/TE-510.jpg

/Ulf

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updated water pump is also a good mod (MY 2010 version) Not very expensive and a real upgrade for the original. These will fit all the way back to the 04 I believe.

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OK, now my 510 is finally back in business again.

http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m632/uaj64/Readytoride.jpg

I have so far just given it a short test run. It is very promising, the vibration reduction with the CB is significant and I think that the issue I have had with numb fingers now is history :smirk:

This means that I probably can keep this bike and I am very happy for that. A smaller bike would probably be easier to handle for me in the tight stuff that I usually ride in but I really enjoy the power of the 510, even if I quite rarely uses it...

Thanks for all input!

B R Ulf

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