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Stator - too high voltage output

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Hello

I've had problems with too high voltage output on my '92 xr 600.

When it idles im getting around 13,5v, but when im opening the throttle it easily exceeds 50v.

its too much for the bulbs and the recitifier. I have pulled out the stator and it looks like a homemade rewind.

any of you know if I can get lower voltage by taking out some of the windings/wire.

thanks.

15122011708.jpg

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Hello

I've had problems with too high voltage output on my '92 xr 600.

When it idles im getting around 13,5v, but when im opening the throttle it easily exceeds 50v.

its too much for the bulbs and the recitifier. I have pulled out the stator and it looks like a homemade rewind.

any of you know if I can get lower voltage by taking out some of the windings/wire.

thanks.

15122011708.jpg

You need a better bigger recitifier, your's is shot that's why your getting high readings

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You need a better bigger recitifier, your's is shot that's why your getting high readings

x 2 :bonk:

CW is right on the money. :smirk:

It looks like it would handle some healthy loads and seems to be done nicely. :busted:

:banana:

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Sounds like the voltage regulator has taken a crap. All the rectifier does is change AC to DC. The Voltage Reg. Keeps things around 13.8 regardless of engine rpm.

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+3 on failed regulator - only thing I would add is your stator looks like a high output unit and will need a matching high watt regulator. I don't think a stock type AC shunt regulator will last long without a substantial load to help it out.

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Okay thanks again for the feedback

I don't think a stock type AC shunt regulator will last long without a substantial load to help it out.

substantial load, does this mean that I should reconnect the battery? or will my 70w headlight + LED taillight be enough load?

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that looks just like my 200watt ricky stator.

Look at the wiring and see what you have...

I have only one leg of the stator going to the stock ac regulator and it has no problems withstanding 100watts. I have a 90/100 halogen bulb and a 5 watt tailight.

(I say this because if you use all of you wattage, the current goes through and doesnt burn out your regulator, if say I only had a 35 watter and no tailight the current heats up the regulator as it trying to cope with the load therfore blowing...someone more knowledgeable can express this better than me but this is what is going on)

You have a blown ac regulator/rec if your seeing 50volts or more.

The stock one is prefectly fine for the headlight and tailight unless you add blinkers and a horn or whatnot.

When you crank the bike over with the kicker you get around 60vac or more depending on what stator you have...this is without the regulator when you test the leads on the stator, both for the lighting coils and the ignitor coil/s ricky;s have 2 stock has one big pole.

Anywhoo...

good luck

P.S.You said something about recconnecting a battery so Im assuming you now have a dualsport kit and separate regulator for your second leg of the stator.

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Sounds like the voltage regulator has taken a crap. All the rectifier does is change AC to DC. The Voltage Reg. Keeps things around 13.8 regardless of engine rpm.

Correct,so a R&R is what he needs Regulator/rectifier

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Okay thank you for the input, i will try with a new rectifier :bonk:

You actualy need an R/R depending on how you have your bike wired.

You can add a capacitor or a small battery for the DC system.

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Okay thanks again for the feedback

substantial load, does this mean that I should reconnect the battery? or will my 70w headlight + LED taillight be enough load?

Ok I see your running a battery sorry.

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The problem is that the bulbs in the headlight was blown, im running 2x12v 35w halogen spots in my headlight.

I will install the new rectifier and reconnect the battery, and only run one phase from the stator (to protect the new rectifier from burning up).

thanks for all the help :bonk:

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