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Flat tire- torn valve stem again

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DRZ-400. Flat front tire, the wheel slipped inside the rim & tore the valve stem at the base. Installed ultra HD tube, rim lock (1.60 if I remember correctly), thru the factory hole ( I did not drill the rim so no burrs). 300 miles of rock trails later, same thing but a slow leak. Valve stem is now angled so I assume its cut again. Will hold air if above 25 PSI but not below that. My buddy says to up the PSI a bit, but I been riding 40 years at 13-15 psi. Next tire fix I will use baby power on the tube so it can slide a little, RUGlyde instead of soapy water (soap residue causing tire to slide?), & check rim locks so there tight. Before I rip 'er apart again, I got to thinking about the washer & 2 nuts that you get with the tube. Is there an order that they go? I always did it tube, rim, washer, nut & nut. An incorrect way may be stressing the stem?

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i never tighten down the lock nut on the valve stem. That way, if the tube does move, the valve stem would have a chance to slide instead of ripping off

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I don't run any nut on the valve stem,Nothing.I belive it's better to have it get yanked clear into the tire and have to fish it out at a later time than getting it ripped and ending a race and DNFing.Have had it happen once and was able to finish the race because the valve stem was free to move without being nutted to the rim.

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use the baby powder on the bead as well it will lubricate enough. I tighten my stems down not because I think its better but I just do and never had an issue. I wouldn't raise tire pressure over 15 either....hell with that

and the washer goes on stem then 1 nut to tighten it down before its put in the tire/wheel. The other nut is optional

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I have not used baby powder to change tires in a long time. Instead I use WD40. rubber absorbs the residual fluid, and I have not had a bead locked rim spin a tire on me once since then- front OR back.

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I only use baby powder to help the tube straighten out on initial inflation.. I also leave the ring off the stem after inflation.. I did have a problem of the tire slipping even with the rimlock tightened like the hubs of he11. Last year I drilled the rim and installed 8 sheet metal screws into the edge of the tire.. End of problem.

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The order is Washer,Nut , then valve stem thru the rim , then the nut but only put the nut to the bottom of the valve cap , that way if it slips it wont tear it out and it will not allow the stem to go all the way inside because the nut will stop it from going farther , i am thinking the rim lock is either worn or something , it should be able to hold the tire unless you are grabbing a handful of brakes all the time , you could just run 1 more rim lock 180 from where the other one is so you have sort of a Y for the stem and each rim lock , i had one tear after 5 years , but i am not a brake abuser , my friend has a KTM and he is constantly spinning tubes both front and rear but it is because he weighs 260+ and runs low pressure so the bike inertia plus his weight is enough to spin the tubes when he slams the brakes

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had the same problem and I had never had that problem before (of course it had to happen about 5 minutes into a race )...check the rimlock --mine was shot and that was the problem.

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you never, EVER tighten the bolt down to the rim on the valve stem, always turn it up towards the vavle cap, so if you get a pinch or the tire slips on the rim, the stem has some room to move. i used to tighten it to the rim and i went through tubes like clockwork with all the rocks in my trails.

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Thanks for your responses guys. I never gave it a thought NOT to tighten the valve stem nuts. I'm gonna leave them loose from now on...:bonk:

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