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XR400 Clicking noise after valve adjustment?

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Does this sound normal? I can't remember what it sounded like before I did the adjustment, and I am pretty sure I did the adjustment right although this was my first time doing it, and by myself.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MM8G6i_rMgk&context=C353b30aADOEgsToPDskLhVYZv1UMaUf0kd1EdvKhb

Here is a link to the bike running, how does it sound? Can you tell?

Quick rehash of my valve job-

-Found TDC by rotating counter-clockwise on the crankshaft with a ratchet, lining up the t-mark as the intake valves just start to go down(Compression stroke)

-After finding TDC I was able to wiggle all of the valve adjusters up and down which means its true TDC???

-I barely had to tighten the valves, perhaps a thousandth of an inch each,

-Intake to .004 and ExhausT .005, I made sure the feeler gauge above would not fit, and the one below slid in without drag.(.003 and .005 for intake, .004 and .006 for exhaust)

-rechecked valves after tightening all the way, readjusted if necessary, making sure I had all the same measurements as they were tightened.

Is this ok? What else could be wrong, or what could I have messed up on the valve adjustment.

I hear clicking noise comes from loose valves, well I am positive the gauge above wouldn't fit in there, it should be dead on. Bike has very low miles, 2001, I bought from a guy who barely rode... still has front tire stock. Also has been very well kept up on oil changes, and oil level checks before every ride.

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Sounds very rattly to me for a low mileage bike,.Are you running it with the choke on in that video,,not that it will have anything to do with the rattling,,just sounds as though it's blubbering (rich)

If you've done the tappet gaps correctly you should have rotated the engine anti-clockwise until the T is on the mark.,The straw should be in the plug hole for the final run up to T,,don't get it stuck in there..If you were in the correct position to do the gaps all of the tappets should have been movable up and down when you jiggle them with the fingers at that point,,if they weren't loose you would have needed to rotate the flywheel around until you find that point,,Piston at top of bore,..tappets loose to the jiggling fingers,,T on its mark and held there so it doesn't move.,Things sound very loose in there to me.,What to do about it now,,don't know.,or should I say I know what I'd do (Get the head cover off and verify the Cams orientation when the pistons at the top of the bore),,Probably an easier way,,wait for someone elses ideas.,

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No choke, bike hasn't ran right since I got it but jetting was the next project, I was hoping to get the valves squared off first, well maybe I'll pull valve covers off again in the morning and double check everything, unless someone has a better idea.

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What do you mean by the straw should be in the plug hole until the final run up to the T?

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Some people use a straw in the spark plug hole as a visual cue as to when the piston is coming to TDC.

Your idle speed sounds too low.

It sounds like you did the valve setting right. The valve clearances don't normally get looser over time, they get tighter.

The rough running may be due to dirty jets, a dirty pilot screw passage, the wrong jetting or a combo of all.

"Oil level checks before every ride" means you're starting the bike, riding it around a little to warm it up, then coming in and putting it level on a stand and letting it set for 5 minutes idling, then shutting it off and immediately checking the dipstick, right? If not, you're not checking it properly.

Who's doing the oil changes? You? Not getting the oil filter in backwards?

Oil starvation of the head will cause the valve train to make more noise than usual. Next time you do an oil change, check the screen filter at the bottom of the frame downtube at the banjo fitting. Also check the one in the bottom of the crankcase by removing the right hand case cover. I doubt neither has ever been inspected for debris.

What do you mean by the straw should be in the plug hole until the final run up to the T?

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Some people use a straw in the spark plug hole as a visual cue as to when the piston is coming to TDC.

Your idle speed sounds too low.

It sounds like you did the valve setting right. The valve clearances don't normally get looser over time, they get tighter.

The rough running may be due to dirty jets, a dirty pilot screw passage, the wrong jetting or a combo of all.

"Oil level checks before every ride" means you're starting the bike, riding it around a little to warm it up, then coming in and putting it level on a stand and letting it set for 5 minutes idling, then shutting it off and immediately checking the dipstick, right? If not, you're not checking it properly.

Who's doing the oil changes? You? Not getting the oil filter in backwards?

Oil starvation of the head will cause the valve train to make more noise than usual. Next time you do an oil change, check the screen filter at the bottom of the frame downtube at the banjo fitting. Also check the one in the bottom of the crankcase by removing the right hand case cover. I doubt neither has ever been inspected for debris.

Great stuff to know, there is a lot more to the oil changes than I knew.

Note on my last oil change, I did it before checking valves, replaced filter(do so every other oil change) and put in some 10w40 valvoline dura-blend, the bike previously had the honda synthetic stuff but I ran out, I figured it didn't matter much, as long as it was still synthetic. Was I wrong?

Put in about 1.7 quarts because it was taking so long to go down, and plan to top it off later... which should be another 0.2ish quarts?

Anyone have specifics on engine oil capacity for the xr400? Or best way to do the oil change, tricks etc. I know its simple, but sometimes i've found it can be even more simple.

New to this bike, had it for about 3 months, new to dirt bikes in general about 14 months when I bought my yz450f.

Any help is appreciated, thanks for help guys. Also just things to know about xr4's in general, a great bike so far thanks.

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I can't find info on that Durablend as to whether or not it has the "Energy Conserving" label on it. Look at the bottle. If it does, dump it from you bike. You don't want to use anything labeled "Energy Conserving". They are not compatible with our motorcycles clutches.

What do you mean you only "Put in about 1.7 quarts because it was taking so long to go down". That to me is a clear indication that the screen filter at the bottom of the frame downtube at the banjo fitting should be inspected for blockage.

The manual states 1.9qts for normal oil/filter change. Dumping the whole 2 qts in is fine tho and keeps you from having to store that last .1 qt..

Download this free shop manual to help you do everything on your XR.

http://www.sendspace.com/file/ivcn6l

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Who's doing the oil changes? You? Not getting the oil filter in backwards?

I'm going to check that oil filter. :\

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I can't find info on that Durablend as to whether or not it has the "Energy Conserving" label on it. Look at the bottle. If it does, dump it from you bike. You don't want to use anything labeled "Energy Conserving". They are not compatible with our motorcycles clutches.

What do you mean you only "Put in about 1.7 quarts because it was taking so long to go down". That to me is a clear indication that the screen filter at the bottom of the frame downtube at the banjo fitting should be inspected for blockage.

The manual states 1.9qts for normal oil/filter change. Dumping the whole 2 qts in is fine tho and keeps you from having to store that last .1 qt..

Download this free shop manual to help you do everything on your XR.

http://www.sendspace.com/file/ivcn6l

Ok I'll dump the oil because I'm concerned about the filter too, what do you think about running delo in the bike? Also I'm wondering what oil to use in winter or summer, still have some Honda 20w50 sae stuff.

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Personally, I don't like to run 10W oil. I think it's too thin. I've run 15w and 20w multi viscosity oils in mine.

If your bike is stored outside in the cold / unheated area, I find it a little difficult to get the engine going at first with 20W50, but after that it's fine.

I've not heard anything negative about using the Delo oil in the XR. I know a lot of people like it.

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When you adjusted your valves was one of them on the tight side, no slack?

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When I went to adjust the valves I know that 3 of them were loose. I didn't check one because I messed with it before I figured out how to check it, it was the intake on the right side, but ya they were all loose about .001" or so. Now they should be stock. I'm going to work on it right now, I'll be doing a bunch of stuff with the oil, and I may recheck the valves too.

One thing that I found weird, was the TDC. When I was turning it counter-clockwise with the ratchet( from looking at the engine from the left side of the bike ), Everytime I got to the T-mark it was on the wrong stroke I think, then I went clockwise a little, then tried it again, making sure I went many full turns so the auto-decompression disengaged I think, and then it worked. It may be a combination of me not knowing what I am doing because I kept learning new things to look for when finding TDC while doing it. :|

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I'm running 10w40 in winter (and early spring + late autumn), otherwise 15w50. How does it show that 10w is too thin? Starts great even in -10C with no hesitation.

And while we are at it: should a 15w60 perform better in summer? Running now a fresh 426 @ 11.0:1, I don't know yet how hot it will run in summer. Or could it do any harm to our XRs?

Personally, I don't like to run 10W oil. I think it's too thin. I've run 15w and 20w multi viscosity oils in mine.

If your bike is stored outside in the cold / unheated area, I find it a little difficult to get the engine going at first with 20W50, but after that it's fine.

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Took apart subframe, pulled carb, and man was it dirty. Cleaned it all out really well and replaced jets while I was at it to 155/58. (Gordon's mods less the exhaust welds grinded). Also drained oil, next step is putting carb back in, putting subframe together, then going to check oil filter and oil screen filters. If that all checks out I will be putting in Delo and taking a look at my valves.

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I'm running 10w40 in winter (and early spring + late autumn), otherwise 15w50. How does it show that 10w is too thin?

The 15w and 20w oils will have better shear properties when hot than a 10w. The XR being an air cooled motor, the oil also takes on the duty of cooling, conducting heat away from engine parts and dissipating it at the oil cooler. I think 15w and 20w oils do that better all around than a 10w when the engine is hot, whether you're riding it on the street or flogging the crap out of it on trails.

Here's a list of viscosity trends:

Too low of a viscosity can result in:

Loss of oil film causing excessive wear

Increased mechanical friction causing excessive energy consumption n Heat generation due to mechanical friction n Internal or external leakage

Increased sensitivity to particle con- tamination due to reduced oil film

Oil film failure at high temperatures, high loads or during start-ups or coast-downs.

Likewise, too high a viscosity can cause:

Excessive heat generation resulting in oil oxidation, sludge and varnish build-up

Gaseous cavitation due to inadequate oil flow to pumps and bearings

Lubrication starvation due to inadequate oil flow

Oil whip in journal bearings

Excess energy consumption to over- come fluid friction

Poor air detrainment or demulsibility

Poor cold-start pumpability.

And while we are at it: should a 15w60 perform better in summer? Running now a fresh 426 @ 11.0:1, I don't know yet how hot it will run in summer. Or could it do any harm to our XRs?

Just guessing but I'd say the difference between a 15w50 and 15w60 is negligible. Use what you have access to. Do your own research on it. Google is your friend.

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It's common for the XR's to be a little "rattley" when the valves are set at the correct clearance. Nothing to worry about. Mine is a little noisy too!

Now I'm just reading to pick up more on this "No 10w thing" :bonk:

Perc

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It's common for the XR's to be a little "rattley" when the valves are set at the correct clearance. Nothing to worry about. Mine is a little noisy too!

Now I'm just reading to pick up more on this "No 10w thing" :bonk:

Perc

Hm, ok. Well now I have checked my valves again, and one of the exhaust ones was way too tight, im dumbfounded as to how. I was in a bit of a hurry so maybe thats why :\

Checked oil filter and strainer, cleaned strainer, cleaned out carb put it all back together...

New problems arise. I'm sure you guys would fix this in like 10 seconds but I don't know much about it.

I took a lot of stuff apart so I don't know where to start, Bike starts and seems to idle pretty fast with full choke on, then turn it down to half choke and it chokes out and dies. Like it isn't getting air without the choke on full, what do I do? Pilot screw?(BTW is that the same as air/fuel mixture screw?)

And also is there a separate idle screw? Or am I talking about all the same thing... jeez..

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Well, the auto-decompresser is on the right side exhaust valve. This is why it is so important to ONLY rotate counterclockwise to disengage before setting the clearance.

YES ! the " Pilot screw?(BTW is that the same as air/fuel mixture screw?)" They are the same.

Also, there is a separate idle set screw on the left side above the choke lever.

Perc

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Well, the auto-decompresser is on the right side exhaust valve. This is why it is so important to ONLY rotate counterclockwise to disengage before setting the clearance.

YES ! the " Pilot screw?(BTW is that the same as air/fuel mixture screw?)" They are the same.

Also, there is a separate idle set screw on the left side above the choke lever.

Perc

Thanks, hm ok... I think my problem must be the jetting :bonk:

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