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Husaberg WP fork help.

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I've had my Fe570 2010' over a year now and have been playing with things as and when I ride it.

I've gone up to .46 springs on the front and 7.6 on the rear, although it's better i'm going to try a 8.0 rear spring soon as I feel it needs it.

I did a race with a MX section and the bike bottomed out on the hard hits, not that that bothers me too much as that's not what I use it for normally. Hopefully a bit more fork oil and the heavier rear spring will help this.

I'm going to strip the front forks to replace the oil and have a good clean out, whilst in there i thought I may make some changes. The thing I would like to improve on is the way the front kicks off of small stumps, rocks and square edges. I have read on here that the mid valve need some free bleed and have seen people drilling the MV piston 1.2mm. While I don't mind doing this, why can I not add a bleed shim? I'm guessing because it will only work as a bleed in compression and not in rebound?

Also if a bleed hole is used, do I then need to make changes to the rebound stack and the base valve?

I'm weary of making too many changes at once, but also aware that making a change in one place will affect others and I don't want to make things worse before they get better.

Any help would be gratefully received.

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only thing i have done up to now for my TE300 is give it a bit more compression damping to ride higher on the air spring and get softer on those hits.....i will dig into them more when doesnt get better than this!!

sport setting seem to work better for me, even though i can feel some harshness from the back in the hard pack trail garbage

have you try i tthis already??

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yes a billed hole is different in feel to a bleed shim for the reasons you gave , you will need to beef up the rebound if you have more bleed , if it's soft now the extra bleed will make it more soft so you will need to increase the ls in the base , if it's stiff in comp just add the bleed and don't change the base

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Thanks Mog, I hoped you would reply as you have helped me in the past.

The rebound is turned out a bit so I wasn't too worried, but I've read it also already has a bleed shim, not sure as I haven't got them apart yet. The comp is also turned out so a was going to leave the BV alone. Also what effect would closing up the MV float have? Would this put too much through the BV?

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closing up the mid can make a fork much better or much worse, its a big change even just 0.1mm, on older wp on ktms they had 0.6mm float and going to 0.3mm really worked , but its not one rule fits all forks.A lot of wp forks have a bleed shim and some prefer to remove it, it can give a inconsistent feel but it can work as well.Its speed sensitive you see, slow movements create a lack of damping, but fast movements shut the bleed path and so slow the fork normally.

A bleed hole is just a choke, it works up to its limit and then chokes anything extra, so the stack then has to give.

so basically closing up the base will make it work much faster in the damping curve ie sooner after the bleed is used up, making it firmer (but not always in a harsh way) if you fork is falling into the stroke too much it will hit the air spring and so closing the float holds it up higher and can be plusher.

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As I understand it my standard MV has a blead shim fitted, if this was repositioned and the float reduced, do you think drilling the piston for some bleed is a good idea?

Also where is a good place to buy shims for the WP forks in the uk?

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I've searched the intaweb for places to buy shims for my forks, I've found you can buy a hole kit for £250+ or £0.96 for single ones from a main stealer.

I've read that you can KYB ones, are they cheaper and more easily available?

I only want to buy 10 or so at a time.

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you can buy the shims from pro racing in the uk, they are the direct importers from japan

for kyb parts and will sell you as many as you like.

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ight, I've been riding and trying to assess whats wrong with my forks, and also reading allot trying to understand these forks and generally doing my home work with regard to the WP forks.

So what I have found is that to keep the front high in its stroke whilst braking into corners and thus making it less harsh a have the rebound set quite high, 20+ clicks out. That seems fine until the lower speed rutted corners where it tends to push the front wide, this has had me off the bike more than once in dusty conditions.

Also the sharp hit and square edges the front wont soak the initial hit but also will then push off of the obstacle making it feel even worse.

High speeds also has it hitting hard and feeling very harsh.

So i'm thinking I have a rebound problem, in the high speed I think. I've adjusted it to work but this has made things worse in other areas.

I know I could go straight in and do what cimwill has done, but i'm not him. I'm me, and tuning something isn't just copying what someone else has done. It's changing things so they work the best for you. I may well end up some where close to what he had? But I will also learn allot on the way, i'm in no hurry and eager to learn.

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It's been suggested I try these stacks

Reb

(2)20Dx.10

16x.10

20Dx.10

16x.10

15x.10

14x.10

13x.10

12x.10

10x.30

14x.25

Mid-Valve

(4)20x.10

18x.10

16x.10

14x.10

10x.20

10x.20

Comp BV

(6)24x.10

20x.10

17x.10

15x.10

14x.10

13x.10

12x.10

9.5x.30

12x.10

Leave the MV float at 0.6mm?

I'm just wrapping my head around what I'm changing and why.

Please correct me if I'm wrong:-

MV- removed bleed and stiffened up, holding it higher in it's stroke giving plusher ride.

BV- removed shims supporting the LS. Increased the HS slightly. Replaced the clamping/control shim.

REB- fitted crossover shim-softening of LS then slightly stiffening HS.

I willing to give a go and report back.

No bleed hole drilling then?

Need to find somewhere that sells individual shims in the UK now?

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this is what will go into my fork, when time permits....

(2)20Dx.10

16x.10

20Dx.10

16x.10

15x.10

14x.10

13x.10

12x.10

10x.30

14x.25

Mid-Valve

(4)20x.10

18x.10

16x.10

15x.10 **********only had a 15 not the 14 recommended.**************

10x.20

10x.20

Comp BV

(6)24x.10

20x.10

17x.10

15x.10

14x.10

13x.10

12x.10

9.5x.30

12x.10

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First, I'm no suspension guru by any means. But my first question after reading your post is why did you change springs? My thinking, and the suspension gurus correct me if I'm wrong, the springs are basically for nothing more than supporting the bike and rider. Set your sag and spring rates according to your weight. If your sag and springs are correct, then it's time for valving changes. I was also always taught to change springs together to keep things balanced.

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If you go on youtube, do a search for Hilton Hayward. He,I believed help develop the WP fork and shock for KTM. He has a TON of knowledge. He also has a web site, haywardsuspension.com.

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