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problems with gas throttle

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I own a rmz 250 k8.

I can not figure out why it is difficult for me to open or better turn the throttle (GAS)

all the way. It does not matter in what position I stay on the bike it seem that my rist

won't turn enough.

I though to buy a fast throttle but they are too sensitive.

Please any advise?

Edited by carmelo1970
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get the interchangable cam throttle tube. you can tune the tube to your style. might also need to address your riding style/ how the throttle is mounted. make sure the body of the throttle isnt twisted too far back (making the throttle have to be turned further for WOT.

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Take a look at G2 Ergonomics products. Their G2 quick turn throttle with interchangeable cams may be the solution you're looking for, Click here

+1 for the G2. I had one on my racing SXV and loved it. I'll be getting another soon for my new 450.

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Rethink that. It makes no difference how the body is turned on the handlebar as to how much throttle twist you have when gripping the throttle tube in a normal manner. If it did, the OP would only need to loosen the throttle body and rotate it forward on the bars and retighten it, problem solved. But that isn't so.

Hence the G2 and the like, others have posted about.

make sure the body of the throttle isnt twisted too far back (making the throttle have to be turned further for WOT.

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Rethink that. It makes no difference how the body is turned on the handlebar as to how much throttle twist you have when gripping the throttle tube in a normal manner. If it did, the OP would only need to loosen the throttle body and rotate it forward on the bars and retighten it, problem solved. But that isn't so.

Hence the G2 and the like, others have posted about.

aww damn... musta been 1/4 way through first cup of coffee when i said that! DOH!!! HAHA.:bonk:

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You need to work on your hand position. Rotate your hand forward so you have less wrist angle, then you can twist the throttle further before you run out of wrist flex.

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I own a rmz 250 k8.

I can not figure out why it is difficult for me to open or better turn the throttle (GAS)

all the way. It does not matter in what position I stay on the bike it seem that my rist

won't turn enough.

I though to buy a fast throttle but they are too sensitive.

Please any advise?

You need to overgrip the throttle more. Get your elbows up higher and reach around the front of the bar for your neutral position. It feels weird at first, but that is what you want to do.

JayC

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You need to work on your hand position. Rotate your hand forward so you have less wrist angle, then you can twist the throttle further before you run out of wrist flex.

I have tried that, Infact I tried to twist my wrist foward but same thing.

I have this problem especially when trying to cross a log. for some reason I am not able to open the throttle enough to get the front wheel up unless with that throttle I help the engine with the clutch.

I guess I am going to try the G2 throttle but I would like to save that money if I could figure out what is the problem.

Thanks for helping me.

CIAO

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I have tried that, Infact I tried to twist my wrist foward but same thing.

I have this problem especially when trying to cross a log. for some reason I am not able to open the throttle enough to get the front wheel up unless with that throttle I help the engine with the clutch.

I guess I am going to try the G2 throttle but I would like to save that money if I could figure out what is the problem.

Thanks for helping me.

CIAO

What bike are you riding? On my 250 smoker, I do use the clutch a bit to help elevate the front on short notice. Nothing wrong with using the clutch a bit. Also, might need to work on looking further down the trail. A common problem is people get locked in on looking right in front of the front wheel, so they don't see obstacles soon enough to be proactive in dealing with them, you get caught up in being reactive instead.

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What bike are you riding? On my 250 smoker, I do use the clutch a bit to help elevate the front on short notice. Nothing wrong with using the clutch a bit. Also, might need to work on looking further down the trail. A common problem is people get locked in on looking right in front of the front wheel, so they don't see obstacles soon enough to be proactive in dealing with them, you get caught up in being reactive instead.

No it is a 4 stroke. I always thought that.the

clucth was not needed for doing that.

Thanks

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just throwing this out there, how much play is in the throttle? might need to adjust the cables to adjust freeplay

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No it is a 4 stroke. I always thought that.the

clucth was not needed for doing that.

Thanks

Nah, doesn't really matter 2 or 4 when it comes to popping the front on short notice. Where a 4 doesn't need the clutch is building power for driving out of a corner or working a technical hillclimb.. When I'm feathering my clutch to help build power in those situations, you're just rolling on the throttle. And if I see an obstacle in advance, I can elevate the front without the clutch too. The key is to see the obstacle in time to attack it instead of reacting. If you're caught out and have to react, use that clutch to get the front up :bonk: The issue is where you're at in the powerband. Often times in the woods, you're a "gear high" since it's smoother, but that means you're not where the engine is ready to lift the front w/o a little help.

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Lots of folk out there riding 08 rmz's that do not have an issue with the throttle. So it may just be a body position, body type, bar position thing. Know a tall guy on that bike that had to do quite a bit to make it fit him.

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It is completely possible to have the throttle tube bind and get harder as you turn it further. The engine end of the cable can also draw in junk that has the same effect. The carb or TB can develop the same syndrome. Carefully check all the mechanical stuff first before you spend money. A new g2 system won't fix the oval bars, defective carb, or bad cable.

Take it apart and test each part. Re-comnect the parts one by one and use a process of elimination to address the issue. Or throw money and parts at it.

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Just a thought but this happend to me once. The wide part of my grip "when turned" was hitting part of my front brake. I eneded up shaveing 1/2 inch all around the grip.

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